Fpv Drif6 Uses 0w-40 Castrol Edge Oil

[kawerx]

The drift car is basically a race car, not used in stop start traffic, and is probably on peak revs 90% of the time, plus the motor isn't standard (might just be bolt ons though). Your car is a street car, probably a daily driver. I don't really see any reason to try and second guess Ford engineers choice of oil, if they reckoned 0W-40 was the best then they would of specified it. If you are using a different viscosity of oil and something fcuks up in the motor Ford are not going to warranty it if they find out. It's hard enough to try and get a legitimate warranty problem fixed, let alone one you may of contributed to.

“Second guess Ford engineers??”

Is this not a FPV vehicle with 4ltr F6 engine in it? Are they not advertising the fact they use this 0W~40 oil?

I would say to you simply that the Ford engineers have decided that STD 15W40 mineral oil is not up to the task at hand with the increase in hp that they have applied to the engine. But the 0W~40 is.

“Your car is a Street car…..”

Yes mine is but funny thing is it is no longer running 270kws and is @ 400kws … Should I still be using the “recommended” mineral oil? Would you have sex in a brothel without a Condom? I don’t think so!

Ford usually recommends the cheapest oil that meets its required specification so as to keep its Fleet maintenance costs competitive with the opposition. This doesn’t mean that the “recommended” mineral oil is the best oil!!!!

Secondly if the said Oil 0W~40 FormulaR in this case exceeds the ford “recommended” specification then they have no choice but to honor your warranty.

Simple fact is most people just don’t like to pay for the good Oil.

I'v used catrol formula R 0-40 from 5000k onward in my T.its awsome.my motor is spottless.I change the oil every 7500kms and it is just starting to get dirty.imo 15000km is too long.

from my experiance with high performance motor bikes oils make a huge differance,why not in cars?mineral oils suck.go synthetic.$100 an oil change is not to much to ask is it.I spent $170 on bloody petrol on the weekend.

[kawerx]

its all marketing.ford recomend minaral oils,last time I checked fpv recomended castrol synthetic oils.Why?sales and profit. I think they would have a hard time selling $150 of oil on every service to the thousands of T owners,dont you?

[FSIX]

Castrol say Edge 10/60w

http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/castr_au/d...ke=21&Model=539

[JBomb3000]

Castrol say Edge 10/60w

http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/castr_au/d...ke=21&Model=539

that's for the Typhoon I asked them about the XR6T. both the 10W-60 and 0W-40 are approved for use by FPV but the description for the 10W-60 sounds like it's more suited to a V8 than a turbo motor with the bit about older technology sports cars.

"Castrol Edge Sport 10W-60 is a full synthetic SAE 10W-60, API SM/CF, ACEA A3/B3/B4 engine oil which is race proven for highly stressed competition engines and older technology sports cars and luxury sedans. Its wide viscosity rating provides excellent start-up wear protection and superior engine protection under every condition of operation."

[Venom XR6]

It probably depends on which model you are referring to, as the BF uses a thinner oil than the BA does.

[SavageF6]

It probably depends on which model you are referring to, as the BF uses a thinner oil than the BA does.

Does it though? Or has the 'recommendation' simply changed? When I enquired of FPV about what oil I should use in my F6, they said that Ford/FPV will use different products over time (depending on cost, and new products that come out). As long as you stay within spec, you're ok. Some dealers use Mobil for servicing, others use Castrol for example. All off the shelf stuff, except for the run-in oil perhaps.

[SavageF6]

http://www.castroledge.com.au

If you use Castrol Edge, they will apparently warrant your car getting airborne, as long as you slam the deck on retro-cool style heh.

From the Castrol Edge mini-site: "Castrol Edge 0W-40. Specifically designed to...exceed high performance standards set by premium car manufacturers including all FPV models and modern European and Japanese prestige vehicles. .....Approved for ue by FPV."

Good enough for me.

[IH8TOADS]

It probably depends on which model you are referring to, as the BF uses a thinner oil than the BA does.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Does it though? Or has the 'recommendation' simply changed? When I enquired of FPV about what oil I should use in my F6, they said that Ford/FPV will use different products over time (depending on cost, and new products that come out). As long as you stay within spec, you're ok. Some dealers use Mobil for servicing, others use Castrol for example. All off the shelf stuff, except for the run-in oil perhaps.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I can assure everyone this is correct. Trust me.

[Lawsy]

Lawsy's oil knowledge, part 1.

Mineral vs synthetic.

Ok, basically if you have a car in which the engine isn't considered a peformance engine (in any way shape or form. 1.8L 92 astina anyone?) you can ignore this and do what you want. You'll get very little of the following benefits. You also wont be hurting anything, either. This means you will still get these benefits but on such a minute scale that the money just isn't worth it. You'd have to do 300 thousand km's to see the results because the engine simply isn't under enough strain for these benefits to truely take effect.

Ok what the hell am I on about? Well I'm on about synthetic oil at various viscosities and why you shouldn't be using anything else in your XR6T's. Especially when modified or run hard all the time.

Mineral oil, in every instance, will break down and be less consistant in all of its performance characteristics when comparied with a fully synthetic oil of the same quality. So if you go and find the best mineral oil in the world to try and disprove this statement, you have to compare it to the best synthetic oil in the world, and we know which one is going to win that round...

Mineral/petroleum based oils are simply filtered and then added to, filtered again, and then more additives are introduced. Repeat with each additive until the mix is complete. that's basically all that is done. There will always be something minute and impure that cannot be fully taken out of the oil.

Synthetic oils are fully manufactured for a soul purpose; to lube you up.

They are, by design, more consistant, have a lower friction co efficient, and are all round better performing than mineral oils. They have less additives, have higher flash points, and lower freezing points.

There virtually isn't anything that mineral oil can do that synthetic oils can't; features can be redesigned/re-engineered into the oil if the need was there.

The only exception is if you have a run around car, like me. Not only does it matter little if the car blows up, but sometimes there is actually a benefit to running mineral oils with slightly higher viscosities and more additives; this is appart from the price. With larger clearances and crappy oil circulation in the older motors, the use of a thicker oil which sticks to engine parts for longer periods, as well as some of the detergants in the oils get that used up along the way, actually help clean out the engine more thoroughly. Also, the fact that older, non performance engines usually run cooler, have lower compression/piston pressures and slacker camming gears, performance synthetic oil, like stated above, gives little to no real tangable benefit.

BUT

If you've happened to run an engine, from new, on the highest quality synthetic oil for that engine, this will never be an issue. Your engine will stay tighter, for longer, have been better protected and wont need a waxy oil to keep everything slippery.

So synthetic oil in a performance engine is always going to be the way to go.

Note: Don't believe the 'longer running period' crap though. Sure, synthetic oil WILL hold its quality for longer, but even the best of engines can get blow by and soot can enter the oil. It definately is better to be safe then sorry, so change your oil every 6-8 months regardless if you haven't done that many km's....

[Lawsy]

Part 2.

So what about viscosity? Without going into to much detail, newer engines have much tighter clearances and are leap years ahead in terms of oil cirulation compared to even 15 years ago. This requires the oils cold start viscosity to be as thin as possible without compromising the minimum lubrication required to start an engine with minimum damage after long periods of rest (and, breath in...). Oil with a 0 cold rating is a fair wack above this point. New, tighter engines simply must have a thin oil when cold, it must get through the engine as quickly as it possibly can, through the tightest spots it can, at lower pressures and temperatures. This reduces wear and increases cold start stability and smoothness.

In the long run, this means that your high performance engine is going to be much fitter, much healthier and much more willing to give more. Mineral oil, especially ones which have lower cold viscosity, have more additives which eventually burn off; they no longer protect your engine as well as they should, especially under much colder conditions because alot of those additives were to give the oil the lower cold viscosity. Mineral oil naturally doesn't want to have a low viscosity at cold temperatures.

When the oil heats up, you want an oil that will ran at the manufactureres recommended viscosity; almost no matter what. The cold start viscosity recommendation is most certainly a cost saving in too many cases, recommending the cheapest, or at least a cheaper, oil that meets the minimum cold start requirements. This does not mean that the best oil for your car is the ones specified in the manual. Obviously if you recently purchased a Porsche, or a Bugatti... where the engines were run in on the optimum oils for run in, completely drained and cleaned, and then refilled with an oil which matches that particular engine and its clearances therein, then you should follow the guidelines (if you had the balls to change the oil on a Bugatti anyway, I dunno if I'd be daring enough to touch a thing on one of them...).

But on the other hand, the recommended viscosity for oils approaching running temps are recommended such that the oil is not only at an optimum viscosity for lubrication/protection, but also for minimum clearances under pressure, as well as for better heat disapation. The running temp viscosities are not a cost saving. On a turbocharged engine, this is even more important as the engine needs to be running the optimum oil as this gives the benefits of cooler running temps, and this allows your T to perform at its best...

Anyways, these are only a few of the reasons why synthetics have an advantage in performance engines. They are reasons which possibly aren't as generally well known, but reasons which I would say are considerably important.

So hopefully that helps clear this up a little.

Also I hope it allows you to see why 0 - 40w or 5 - 40w synthetic oil is absolutely, possitively better for your engine than 15-40w mineral oil, in this instance.

Now don't just take my word for it, if look hard enough (I certainly can't be bothered right now) what I've just posted can be referenced to scientific studies, the oils chemical make up, and lab results that are fully disclosed and conclusive, as well as years and years of road and race track proven results. So this is the real deal, this is not my opinion, or anything else you can think of that gives me any sort of bias. To me, I couldn't care less about oils. I know what I know purely for the reason that when I have the money and time to build up a nice car, I wont do something stupid like put 20-80 mineral oil into a 400rwkw semi race engine....