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  • F6+300+
  • Member
  • Member For: 21y 10m 9d
  • Location: In The Ute
Posted
I think someone needs to explain the meaning of "minimum requirements" re: oil again. 0W is thinner than 15W, but not necessarily better considering heat etc yes? But you wouldn't use say 'coles supermarket special 20W-50 right? Hmmmm?

[goes to look sh*t up on websites...]

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

That’s the way Savage :spoton:

Most people just look at the viscosity rating and that’s it!!!!!!!!!

The Viscosity is the pour-ability of Oil at a “defined” temperature.

A Quote from the FPV and the Ford Service Training Institute.

F6-270-Turbo

Recommended Mineral oil SAE viscosity grade 15w~40

WARNING: Use of alternative oils may result in degraded performance, fuel economy and emissions. Do not use non-detergent or API class SC, SD, SE, SF, SG, or SH oils or additives.

For example the 0W~40 Synthetic oil question not only meets FORDS specifications but exceeds it. How can you void warranty when you use oil which exceeds the factory specification????????

Some dealers are smart enough to know and some are not.

My T3 came out of Fords factory with 0W~40 oil and every time the Ford dealer serviced it he would use Mineral oil 15W~40.. Time and time again I told them it was wrong yet they still used the wrong oil next service.

After one service I fronted the service manager and he told me outright that (these dinosaur engines CAN NOT run a 0 weight oil) So I promptly introduced him to the Ford spec sheet stipulating 0W~40 FormulaR .. Needless to say he was at first lost for words then promptly apologized, then changed my oil to FormulaR at no cost.

If you are so worried about the viscosity ONLY then do a test:

In my BF F6 the oil pressure when hot at idle is only on the first mark on the gauge (lucky to be 1/8) with factory Oil from new.

Change it to 10W~60 FormulaR and the oil pressure sits just a whisker under ½ at Idle.

Then with 0W~40 FormulaR it sits on about 1/3 at idle HOT which is just about spot on in my book “if” I was only concerned about the Viscosity.

Mmm strange how a 0w Synthetic oil hold its viscosity better when hot than 15w mineral oil?????

One of the many but main reasons for switching to Synthetic oil is its longevity….

In theory it should last you twice as long as normal mineral oil and as such maintain it integrity over longer service periods under extreme operating conditions thus reducing engine wear and maintenance costs.

What we usually see here is a switch to it not for its longevity but its ability to maintain engine component protection whilst running increased power over that same service period.

Simply put in the transport industry you use synthetics and extend our service periods from 20,000km to anything as much as 60,000km subject to the TBM or schedule oil sampling.

Your car! Use whatever oil turns you on! But at least check the specifications before you condemn an oil.

:spoton:

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  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 22y 1m 1d
  • Location: Perth
Posted

I am not an expert on Oils but I do believe that the synthetic 0w-40 oil would perform better at high ambient (and operating temps), not the reverse as suggested.. As per the rating states, the oil performs like an SAE 40 weight oil at operating temp and that's all that matters. The fact that it has the relative viscosity of a 0W oil when cold should not matter, if anything it would probably aid lubrication during cold starts.

  • F6+300+
  • Member
  • Member For: 21y 10m 9d
  • Location: In The Ute
Posted
I am not an expert on Oils but I do believe that the synthetic 0w-40 oil would perform better at high ambient (and operating temps), not the reverse as suggested.. As per the rating states, the oil performs like an SAE 40 weight oil at operating temp and that's all that matters. The fact that it has the relative viscosity of a 0W oil when cold should not matter, if anything it would probably aid lubrication during cold starts.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Now we are thinking. :spoton:

  • Like 1
  • Member
  • Member For: 22y 8m 24d
  • Location: Melbourne
Posted
I think someone needs to explain the meaning of "minimum requirements" re: oil again. 0W is thinner than 15W, but not necessarily better considering heat etc yes? But you wouldn't use say 'coles supermarket special 20W-50 right? Hmmmm?

[goes to look sh*t up on websites...]

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

That’s the way Savage :spoton:

Most people just look at the viscosity rating and that’s it!!!!!!!!!

The Viscosity is the pour-ability of Oil at a “defined” temperature.

A Quote from the FPV and the Ford Service Training Institute.

F6-270-Turbo

Recommended Mineral oil SAE viscosity grade 15w~40

WARNING: Use of alternative oils may result in degraded performance, fuel economy and emissions. Do not use non-detergent or API class SC, SD, SE, SF, SG, or SH oils or additives.

For example the 0W~40 Synthetic oil question not only meets FORDS specifications but exceeds it. How can you void warranty when you use oil which exceeds the factory specification????????

Some dealers are smart enough to know and some are not.

My T3 came out of Fords factory with 0W~40 oil and every time the Ford dealer serviced it he would use Mineral oil 15W~40.. Time and time again I told them it was wrong yet they still used the wrong oil next service.

After one service I fronted the service manager and he told me outright that (these dinosaur engines CAN NOT run a 0 weight oil) So I promptly introduced him to the Ford spec sheet stipulating 0W~40 FormulaR .. Needless to say he was at first lost for words then promptly apologized, then changed my oil to FormulaR at no cost.

If you are so worried about the viscosity ONLY then do a test:

In my BF F6 the oil pressure when hot at idle is only on the first mark on the gauge (lucky to be 1/8) with factory Oil from new.

Change it to 10W~60 FormulaR and the oil pressure sits just a whisker under ½ at Idle.

Then with 0W~40 FormulaR it sits on about 1/3 at idle HOT which is just about spot on in my book “if” I was only concerned about the Viscosity.

Mmm strange how a 0w Synthetic oil hold its viscosity better when hot than 15w mineral oil?????

One of the many but main reasons for switching to Synthetic oil is its longevity….

In theory it should last you twice as long as normal mineral oil and as such maintain it integrity over longer service periods under extreme operating conditions thus reducing engine wear and maintenance costs.

What we usually see here is a switch to it not for its longevity but its ability to maintain engine component protection whilst running increased power over that same service period.

Simply put in the transport industry you use synthetics and extend our service periods from 20,000km to anything as much as 60,000km subject to the TBM or schedule oil sampling.

Your car! Use whatever oil turns you on! But at least check the specifications before you condemn an oil.

:spoton:

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Well said, Castrol EDGE, good oil for Turbos, I use BP Visco 5000, 5w-40, also good oil. Motor purrs like a kitten, Turbo spools great.

If you look at your OIL CAP, xx-40, xx-50 is stated.

For interesting oil articles go to www.bobistheoilguy.com

Oil is not only Lubricant is also used for cooling, thinner oil removes heat quicker with its higher flow rate, thicker oils dont flow as quick.

Thinner Oil also gets in to clearances better.

  • Member
  • Member For: 21y 4m 26d
Posted

Im using Penrite Syn 5w-60 in my F6 and its great.

Still has a slight tappet noise at cold startup for about a second, but the needle sits only just below half while hot on idle and a nice 3/4 when driving.

  • Tractor Driver
  • Member
  • Member For: 20y 7m 7d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Sydney
Posted

This is partly related, but I do recall reading about "bypass filtration" of oil. Apparently this is used (a lot?) on large deisel engines. The claim is that by filtering the impurities out of the oil while it is in use, the oil lasts an order of magnitude longer than usual.

http://www.google.com.au/search?q=bypass+filtration

  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 20y 9m 27d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Victoria
Posted
Ford strongly reccomended NOT to use 0W oil at my last service, NO WARRENTEE.

Goldie is right, here in QLD the oil will thin out to much at high ambiant temps and lead to bearing failure.

I just got an e-mail back from castrol after asking them which fully synthetic oil they recomend for the XR6T and they said 0W-40. This oil is also approved for use by FPV so I find it odd they would approved an oil that will void your waranty.

  • Here since the start...
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 23y 4m 22d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Victoria
Posted

Maybe they need to check their own website...

They don't recommend 0W-40 on there. :sleepystuff:

  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 20y 9m 27d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Victoria
Posted
Maybe they need to check their own website...

They don't recommend 0W-40 on there. :buttrock:

In the lube guide on the castrol site they recomend GTX3 15W-40 or Magnatec 10W-40 which are both mineral or mineral/synthetic blends which is why I asked them which fully synthetic oil they recomend. Edge 0W-40 is approved by use for FPV so I doubt they would approve an oil that could potentally damage your car.

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