Slowxr6t

Damn 30 degrees! That would feel like thermo nuclear here in NZ. 20 degrees is nice to work outside over here.

Ha ha, yea I watched that and thought of you and then saw your comment on it haha, must be my incompetent tuner. I asked a question in the comments to and staphi said stock ecu and stock sensors can run up to 2.4 bar boost on closed loop.

Sounds like its run a bearing lol

Today I had a win! Iv been searching sround for exhaust manifolds to mount my efr9174 high or low. The stainless investment cast Artec brand ones are the priciest and look to be awesome. Anyway they are $2100 A dollars and $2300 ish NZD over here. A NZ shop had one in stock and I had thought nah that's way to expensive. And then 2 days ago it popped up on trademe for $1 reserve so I jumped into the bidding. I got it for $615 + postage $640 total. What a friggin bargain, im stoked! So il be investigating the high mount option now after all. The shop must have had it sitting around for a long time and just wanted to cash up. They surely wouldve made a loss on that one.

I wish some company would make a t4 divided log manifold but no one does, they go to the effort of making cast manifolds and dont even do a t4 divided. They only do t4 open hole. Theres only Rajab and psr that make cast logs, rajab does a t4 open and their one mounts the turbo 40mm forward of stock, so intake pipe would struggle to clear p steer res.

Today I had a measuring up session in engine bay to work out how im gonna fit my monster efr 9174, its a big girl!! I came to conclusion I will low mount it on a psr log manifold, cut off manifolds t3 flange and get a t4 divided flange welded on in a slightly more upright position, only about 10mm more upright to get clearance between bottom of turbine housing and engine mount heatsheild. I looked at a Artec investment cast 347 stainless manifold, very nice piece of kit, but its over 2k and 4inch dump would be a very tight squeeze, and have to go down real steep and the water pipes by firewall would probably need modifying. And heat would be a issue I think. I will have to bore 2 holes in the twin scroll housing just after turbine inlet and run 2 pipes into 1 and then into w gate. Id rather not drill into housing if I could help it but I would have to j pipe it and higher mount turbo and run gate off j pipe.

Me and my Auto electrician suspect my tuner has messed something up with ecu because my xr6t has dsc and traction control fault come up and sparky looked at it and said pcm isnt talking to ecm. Thoughts or ideas guys???

My suggestion is to trade in the ford for a holden. Only joking sometimes youve just gotta stay strong and push through with all the "Fix Or Repair Daily" problems.

Thanks mate

@Puffwagon went to tuner today he check ecu and found higher intake air temps were making it go into limp and boost low, the ecu must close the throttle body down alot, very clever. So he changed that and im back to a peak of 19psi and it goes hard. Gave it a good thrash and it was good. It did start doing a slight rev oscillation on cruise but then came right itself. I thought it might have been the boost sensor saying enough when it hit 19psi. I will turn boost tap down a quarter turn to about 18psi.

@Puffwagon thanks for that info, really I thought it would have to help having a divider. I think I will go ahead with this project just to see if it can be done and if it gives any gain over my stock manifold and gtx gen 2 setup, I will keep gtx setup unmolested so I can bolt it back on if efr setup is too difficult or turns out a cluster, I will still be able to sell the efr. Efr is supposed to spool fast and having a 91mm exducer comp wheel should make gtx power at lower boost too. Gonna be some more custom fab work coming up for me.

@Puffwagon If I was to weld a t4 split pulse flange on, should it have a divider plate welded to the underside of it to protrude down into the manifold to divide the exhaust pulses? The divider plate wouldnt seal down into manifold but may be better than all the pulses trying to fight their way into one side or the other of the t4 flange? Max performance welded a t4 split pulse flange onto "Kevspecs" psr log manifold for his psr G40 turbo and kev thought there was no divider on his.

So hypothetically, if I was to buy a pulsar fg turbo log manifold which is a direct replacement for the stock fg one and cut off the t3 flange and get professionally welded on a t4 split pulse flange and bolt on a efr 9174 borg with 1.05 ar housing, would it spool faster than a equal length manifold like a aeroflow or 6 boost? If I did go the log style I would make a short collector with a t4 flange on each end to go between manifold and turbo and have the wastegate pipes on it to go to wastegate. If I did that it may move turbo out from motor too far? Id probably be better running gate off manifold. I dont want to modify/run the gate pipe off borg turbine housing. Just thinking out loud here. Would quite like to stay low mount, for heat management but also high mount is great for maximum street cred lol.

Depends what youre after, I have a 54inch hustler flip up zero turn ride on with the twin blades on the end of each of the 3 flales ans its pretty unstoppable. Youve gotta get the twin blades otherwise cut anything damp and it will block the deck and stall the blades out and blow clutches if you push it hard like me.

I havnt got the overboost turbo fuse valve fitted, so it must be ecu related, its weird because it boosts a solid stable as 16psi. Ill get it checked, thanks Puff.

@Puffwagon so I drove 20 minutes to a mates to take him for a ride, I gave it a couple of 16psi full boost pulls on the way, all was good. I picked him up and went for a cruise, first pull it woul only boost 5psi in 3rd and 7psi in 4th. No check engine lights or anything showing. I pulled over and turned it off for 2 minutes and restarted and all was good back to 16psi again. What could the problem be???

Good on ya mate, that's a big job well done, I had the rear subframe out of my fgx a while back, I posted on here about it, I did ims diff hat and front diff bushes, got it done really mint! Pretty satisfying when you do stuff like that without cocking it all up lol.

Top photo stainless exhaust manifold studs and lock nuts, braided turbo water feed pipe, braided tube to wastegate pipe, gtx3582r gen2, custom turbo water outlet pipe. Bottom photo old gt3582r 16psi running straight off 19osi wg springs vs new gtx3582r gen2 running off 19psi wg springs and gfb atomic boost tap I think it hit 20.7psi and dropped off to 17.7psi which is where it made the 430kw. Love this turbo, look at the power from 3000-3500rpm vs gt35r.

Gt3582r 16psi vs Gtx3582r gen 2 18psi

Update: disconnected battery again for 30 minutes, fault codes gone, turned boost tap down 2 more turns, went for drive, boosting 16psi no problems no faults, awesome! Stopped car turned up boost half a turn, drove off and boosted it and it shot way past 20psi which is all the guage reads, I lifted instantly luckily, stopped to have a look and boost hose had blown off wastegate. It had a cable tie on it but still blew off. Drove home off boost and thought right I better get a braided hose with screw in fitting made up for the wastegate. So im happy I know it must be the boost sensor and if I want to boost higher I will get max volts for boost sensor turned up to 6 volts as per @Puffwagon s advice. Gen2 gtx 3582r feels like a good turbo, fullboost at 3300rpm vs 2600rpm with GT3582, gen 2 comes on harder gt is more linear. Pulling away from a stand still feels fine with the gen2, I thought it might have been laggy but is good. Pulls strong when coming on boost.

@Puffwagon I disconnected battery for a few hours and put in a new battery, I also turned boost tap down 1 turn, went for drive, check engine and dsc fault was gone, warmed engine up, gave it some, hit 18psi, dsc came back on then check engine came on too, boost got limited to 7psi, it didnt have the weird surging problem this time at cruise, I stopped turned engine off for 5 minutes, went again, faults gone then they came back again, some research says change brake switch to fix the dsc problem, I will do that, our 2wd territory has dsc and no cruise control problem as well so I will change brake switch in that too. I will get get xr6t fault checked again to see if its boost sensor still for the check engine light. How does it limit boost to 7psi if iv got 19psi springs in it?

Yeah thanks again, I still may take you up on that offer sometime. My tuner asked about whether we should try setting it up with a tube to top port of gate with a mac 3 port or 4 port or the stock solenoid. Can stock solenoid do that? Or is all that just not necessary at all? Can it just be sorted with proper tuning with stock solenoid to bottom port? By the way, im not happy atm, wont be till iv sorted the current sensor, surging issue

We nzers arent as clever as you aussies yet. Were slowly gettin there though mate.

Nope, gfb atomic boost tap,, its the nz way of boost control mate, that's why it drops from 20 .7 to 17.7psi.

@Puffwagon me thinks replace stock boost sensor in throttle body elbow and set max voltage to 6volts on that sensor. By the way I tested a GFB turbo fuse and can confirm it works great! At one point with it installed pre bov boost spiked to 21psi and dropped to 13 and stayed at 13 for that dyno run. Took us a minute to figure out it wasnt the boost bleed tap playing up. The turbo fuse activates at set pressure youve adjusted it to and shuts air off to bov hose and boost pushes bov open making a boost leak.