Slowxr6t

So I took dump, waste gate screamer, heat sheilds and water and oil lines off turbo, removed manifold and turbo as one piece and found bad exhaust leaks on both ends of the Artec manifold. It was still all done up tight and couldnt come loose because I had atomic anchorlox nuts holding it on. Manifold flange is badly warped, banana ed. Very disappointing. Anyway I rang the retailer and they got hold of Artec and lots of photos and emails later Artec sent me a brand new manifold, this one has a flat flange, I checked it. I didnt check the first one when I first got it but it didnt leak until 1500ish kms. So iv installed it all again, I bought new Tinnix inconel studs and new atomic anchorlox nuts and its all go again. I had to send my old warped manifold back. Thankyou Artec for coming to the party.

@tofski yea it sucks alright, I didnt check it for flatness when I got it, it may have been warped from new. Are you building a drag monster? That is insane power you have. Was it a full custom manifold you have or a j pipe off the stock nanifold? I was thinking of cutting off t3 flange off stock manifold and getting a t4 split flange welded on but clearances looked a bit tricky. Then this Artec came up cheap. Pretty certain retailer didnt know there was anything wrong with it. They just wanted to cash up and get stock gone. I hope if Artec give me another one it is identical because if not il have to do fab adjustments which is never fun. Otherwise il go 6 boost or sinco and have to remake everything.

@tofski @Vigilance99 efr9174, the 91 is conpressor exd big side and the 74 is turbine 74mm exducer, that's the small side of turbine.

Good on ya mate

Cheers for that

@Vigilance99my efr has a t4 split pulse flange 1.05 a/r housing, its not small, compressor wheel is 67mm inducer and 91 exducer, 900hp turbo, im getting 10psi at 2500rpm and 17-18 at 3500 I think, its a great road turbo with gobs of torque down low and minimal lag. My Artec has a warped flange at the moment and im trying to get Artec to replace it. Check my posts.

@hjtrbo and whoever wants to know haha, I disassembled my car, dump off heatsheilds off, gate off, turbo and manifold off together and found my new Artec manifold has a pretty badly warped flange, its 12mm thick and still warped, with a straight edge lying on it, I can get a 1.4mm thick steel ruler in both ends, more so the firewall end, and theres soot marks blown thru the sides, pretty ugly! Im surprised it sealed as well as it did, it must have pulled in at the ends a bit when it was bolted up on car. I contacted the retailer and sent them photos of it all and they have contacted Artec to try get a replacement manifold. Pretty damn disapointing but hey welcome to motorsport! If they dont come to the party I might go for a 6 boost or Sinco.

What brand is it? 6 piston? 355mm rotors? Are they awesome, hows cold stopping? I got 6 piston brembos with brembo pads and 355mm dba slotted rotors, they shuddered and had to get them machined which was not cool. But they are awesome now, huge braking power.

What motor is in the caprice? Do you make your living being a back yard mechanic? Are you busy on customers cars usually and do you advertise or is it just word of mouth, go to puffwagons garage? Hes a legend.

Shouldve brake checkd him. Nah prob not the best idea. He was a road rager for sure.

My car has this random exhaust leak only when stone cold and it only chuffs for about 1 minute then the leak stops, I think its in the manifold area up by the firewall. I have custom heatsheilding over the manifold and I have to take the dump pipe off to take the heat sheild off to be able to investigate whether it has a slight leak out the manifold gasket. Its friggin annoying, I hardly drive my car but it seems like it always has a problem. Fix or repair daily, ford is what I have . I have a new stock manifold gasket, Artec manifold and studs and atomic anchorlox nuts holding it on, its only just developed this annoying exhaust leak after about 2000kms of driving.

Sheds are never big enough, unfortunately.

Yea im slowly working that one out, they seem to be more of a problem than anything else. Do you guys know that the stock xr6t bov piston actually runs sideways so to speak so the piston cant actually be pushed open by boost pressure, it could potentially just leak past the o-ring that seals it when its shut. Not sure if other oem bovs work like that but it seems like a pretty good idea to me. Aftermarket should make them like that. I might chuck the stock one back on and see how it goes.

I have a gfb dvx diverter/bov in place of the oem borgwarner bov that's part of the compressor housing and it has been working fine, well it wasnt opening under boost and causing a big boost leak. I was suspect that it could have been leaking and I had pressure tested turbo pipework and checked all plenum hoses and fittings and found nothing. I took dvx apart and put in a extra spring to make it really stiff and hard to open. It fixed it yaaa, I havnt had much luck with bovs on this barra, my Greddy type r 50mm leaked and when I put a stiff spring in it wouldnt open and this dvx has started to leak after a short amount of time too.

Fair enough.

@kenna802 whats wrong with 17 psi?

Very noice, I forgot to mention to you before you built it, that sheds are never big enough, so make it big. Looks great though, wish I could come round for a dyno run in my barra.

Do you aussies lay the concrete after shed is built? Otherway round over here pretty sure. Might be something to do with the scorching temps you get there and concrete setting too quickly and cracking?

@Puffwagonmove to NZ, maxxing out here at 30 on a real hot day otherwise 24-26ish degrees.

Iv heard its all in the tune.

Turbosmart gave me a brand new replacement 50mm progate to replace my leaky one. Took 2 weeks but they came to the party, cheers ts. Iv put 19psi of springs in it and checked it with air compressor, reg and guage, its cracking open at 21psi. Im gonna try it and go to dyno, I want engine to boost 18-19 psi and hold till redline ish, it will be interesting to see how it goes, whether exhaust gasses start pushing valve off its seat early in rpms or not cos I still have stock 3 inch exhaust after the 4 inch dump but with screamer pipe now to relieve back pressure when full boost hits. I will update after dyno visit and boost control remap.

On the up side you wont blow anything up.

Feels like im posting to myself sometimes. Cheers keith for putting my post in here.

Today I got fgx back together after mechanic mate and I supported engine, dropped sub frame, removed sump, cleaned it all up, new half moon seals, used loctite 518 as the goo of choice this time instead of threebond 1215. Removed a snapped sump bolt out of block, tapped a 8mm thread in block, cut all new 8.8 tensile bolts with 10mm heads to length and re-installed the sump. We made 2 studs to screw into bolt holes, one on each side in middle of sump to line the sump up correctly. Iv started car on hoist and had a good look around and so far no leaks, I hope it stays that way!!! Also my new turbosmart 50mm gate doesnt seal shut, at idle exhaust gasses come out screamer pipe, and yes its installed properly, iv taken it off car, and assembled with v band shell and clamp and you can see a small bit of light thru valve, I took it to shop I bought it from and he checked it all out and said we will have to send it back to ts to do a warranty claim. Pretty annoying cos I wanted to go to drags this wknd. Before I did sump I drove it with screamer and to start with its really obnoxious but the noise it makes grows on you and is really quite entertaining but still obnoxious haha, it puts a smile on ya dial every time gate opens.