HI PSI

The standard tank is not a pressurised unit and has a capacity is 600ml. So it should be fine. We fitted the sump up to the short engine the other day, and the girdle and studs hit were way too long. This resulted in a gap of 8mm from the sump flange to the block. We ended up having to remove the ball bearings from under the studs and a lot of material from the sump. So what was considered a basic task turned into a 3 hour modification. While there we welded in a plate on the rear side of the sumps main oil pan, This is to stop oil from running to the back of the sump when doing hard launches. The engine and box were removed yesterday in preparation for painting. CNC'ing if the valve seats should be competed today. So, final assembly should be completed in the coming days.

Sorry mate, I was at the shop today and I forgot to ask. I'll get the answers for you tomorrow. New bits in transit..... Aeroflow fuel filter - AF66-2043S -12 fittings Dimensions - 7" x 2-1/2". AEROFLOW AF59-2431 - 10 micron stinless mesh filter AEROFLOW AF66-2246 Dual Billet Filter Mount Remote Power Steering Reservoir - PROFLOW 750ml Oil Catch can with breather, drain tap and -12 fitting.

Thanks for the information. It is greatly appreciated.. After assembling the short in late October, I decided to install larger valves and do major porting of the cylinder head. Given the size of the valves, we dummy fitted the head so that we could determine what clearance we had on on the valve relief's, on the pistons. After we determined the centre of the valve, we realised that the clearances were a little too close for comfort. So, the bottom was disassembled and the pistons milled. Before machining: After machining: As you can see, the remaining material at the outer edge of the piston was unacceptably thin, so it was removed. The whole bottom end was then recleaned and components and the reassembly initiated. Upon installing the oil pick up (wasn't installed previously), we identified a problem. In it's standard configuration, the bottom oil pick up would only clear the bottom of the sump by 2mm. We also noted, that due to the addition of the mains stud girdle, the height if the pick up mount was increased. This caused the pick up flange (at the oil pump) to be misaligned with the oil pump. In order to rectify the problem, we made minor adjustments to the lenght two main studs. The first to be adjusted, was a stud that was positioned directly under the middle of the pick up tube, as it was touching the pick up. The other was the studs that the pick up's brace attaches to. Despite lowering the mounting height of the pick up, we found that it was not sufficient to square up the flange. So, we cut about 10mm of material from the pick up brace ans rewelded the mount. Problem solved..... Unfortunately, as I have not completed polishing the timing cover, assembly ceased. Stay posted, more updates soon.... I was only thinking about my problems with the splitters for the DJR kit the other day. So, while browsing Ebay, I performed a search for "DJR". Much to my delight, I found these... NOS - Genunie DJR splitters. So, I snapped them up and they are in transit. If anyone else is interested in a set, they have another set listed.... The Drive Shaft Shop 1400hp drive shafts arrived today. The picture really doesn't show how big these things really are. With any luck, I will have the new IRS and fuel system fitted before the car gets its engine bay painted on Sunday.

You must have some underlying problem with your vehicle. You might want to take it to a reputable workshop... 15 psi running through my standard turbo is an absolute weapon....

I too, had similar reservations as to the capability of the Walbro 255 l/h pump to keep the surge full, with prolonged periods of WOT. I am looking to push a bit more power than most, so, I ended up removing my PW surge tank and pumps and went for a KPM 1500hp in tank module.

Get onto Kevin from Process West. He will send you on of his coolers, and you can have a three way comparative test.

I am chasing a high flow 10 micron high flow fuel filter, that has a metal, re washable element. The larger the surface area of the filter and size, the better..... I would greatly appreciate any input that forum members could give me on brand and models of filters.........

Here I was thinking that they were the same... Silly me.... Thank you for the advice, I really appreciate it.

Thank you. I greatly appreciate your feedback and I will investigate this further when the supplier reopens after Christmas.

For the drive-line... As the vehicle is a 6 speed manual, I opted for a Mal Wood option 5 , twin plate clutch. Although the clutch is a little under rated for the application, I want to maintain it's street manners. I guess that time will tell will tell if it will handle the abuse... As of yet, I have not made a decision on which way I will go with a Chrome Moly or carbon Fibre tail shaft.. I would greatly appreciate input on this area.... The standard IRS will be retained. I have purchased another full iRS and have stripped it. New Superpro bushes have be fitted and the components painted. As we all know, the problematic areas for the rear end are the CV's, diff bushes and the hat and bolt breaking. With it only being as strong as it's weakest link, I have replaced the CV's with 'The Driveline Shop" 1400hp CV's. These are in transit, and should be here soon.... While the IRS cradle is quite a strong unit. We have decided to seam weld the whole cradle to add strength and rigidity. This will be completed over the coming week or so... The diff hat has been replaced with an Independent Motorsport's Dual bush diff hat. The front diff bushes have been replaced with CAT600 bushes....

Before the build even commenced, I decided that I would share every part of my build with the forums. As the biggest hurdle I have encountered, was obtaining information on high performance upgrades and their applications. Especially when it comes down to increasing efficiencies.... So, Here I am sharing what I have done... I know that what we have done may not always be the best possible way. But, as I live in Central Queensland, I do not have access to elite performance shops. But, we will do the best that we can..... I can understand that tecniiques and parts utilised by shops is intellectual information and that this is what separates them form their competitors. Some shops, we outright rude and arrogant, while others treated me like I was just wasting their time, or a time water. Not sure which...... It has always been my intention to run it when I can. Unfortunately, E85 is only available at one service station in our area (70km round trip to get it), so it limits me somewhat. Other than that it's 98 Ron.. I weighed up the old engine vs F6 short. All in all, with the cost of the machining and frieghting the items to the establishments who perform them would probably be the same. Besides that, it is nice to have brand new components to work with, and the quality of the factory machined surfaces is fantastic. I also believe that the new blocks are not numbered from the factory and can be stamped to your original VIN.

Now the fuel system....... Originally, I had intended to use the 1.8l process West surge tank that is currently on the vehicle. And I had, as some of you had previously observed in my one of my pictures, had purchased another 2 x 044's to add to the system. However, I have again changed direction.... In regards to the fuel system, I decided to go with the KPM 1500hp in tank module instead rather than the new Process west external surge tank. The KPM 1500hp in tank module and FG fuel tank arrived.. FG fuel Tank. I purchased 14 meters of 5/8 and 1/2 Braided Teflon fuel line. the 5/8 line will be used to feed the FPR 2000 Fuel regulator, and the 1/2 line for the return line. Fuel will then be delivered to the Plazmaman fuel rail and the Bosch 2200cc injectors.

Hi aaronm, with durability in mind, primarily, the car will be run in 98 Ron, but it will occasionally spend some time on E85. In regards to compression I am not sure of the current compression ratio, as we have had to fly cut the valve relief's due to the size of the valves.... And from what I can remember the pistons were an off the shelf items.

As you ll know, fuel and induction system require upgrading when chasing power. With this in mind, I made many phone calls to suppliers and manufacturers and spent many hours reading posts, before making my decision. Armed with this information, I purchased a full Plazmaman intercooler and piping kit. The model I selected was the 1900hp intercooler and 89mm piping. In regards to the induction side, I purchased a plenum lower half from Ebay and Plazmaman plenum which utilised the larger 80mm XR8 throttle body and their billet fuel rail to suit . Soon after purchasing the Plazmaman equipment, Plazmaman released a new plenum which is similar to the Hypertune manifolds. I called Alex (from Plazmaman) and managed to negotiate the return of the previously purchased plenum and rail for a store credit. I sent it yesterday and should have their new plenum in transit when they return from their Christmas shut down period. New plenum and rail.... Recently, I managed to find a NOS, SS Inductions 85mm billet throttle body. This will replace the previously purchased XR8 one... Unfortunately the current Process West 4" race air box will no longer be utilised, as a 5" intake is now required. At this point, I have not decided how or what I will use for it... The turbosmart plumb back BOV will be retained, as will the Process West battery relocation kit. However, I have made a new, larger battery tray as the new Odyssey battery will not fit in the standard Process West tray.

More to come soon - Lunch time...

As with all high mount setup's a new header is a must. So a polished alloy version was sourced. To assist me in monitoring the engines vital signs, the Genuine FPV dual gauge pod was ditched for a triple gauge version. And as my current boost gauge only goes to 20psi, new gauges were purchased. New Autometer Cobalt 45 PSi boost, Fuel and oil pressure gauges. While I'm on the subject of cosmetics, I purchased a Nizpro rocker cover garnish and new set of 50th anniversary leather to replace the worn leather and suede covers.

I kind of got a bit off track with some of the sequencing of these posts. I am just trying to keep the thread tidy and flowing.... Prior to the assembly of the bottom end, I purchased all of the other required parts ie: Turbo, manifold, fuel rail, plenum, injectors etc. We decided on a Garret GTX4202r would best suit my needs. As it should get me to the desired power level, while still maintaining drive-ability. unfortunately, I did not do enough research on the exhaust housing, and I purchased a 1.01 housing instead of a 1.28. This will be sourced when the time for installation is required. This will be coupled to a 6boost split pulse manifold and a Turbosmart 60mm external wastegate. At the start of the exhaust system, a CES dump has been sourced. The dump is a V band which starts as a 4" diameter form the V band fitting and increases to 5' in diameter, at around 8" from the turbo. Unfotunately, I don't have any pictures on file, I will get on uploaded soon.... The remainder of the exhaust system was sourced form a forum member who purchase Spiro Anton's F6. I put the car into the shop (Ace Exhaust) to get the exhaust fitted, but we couldn't get the section that goes over the K Frame in. We dropped the whole frame and then found that the shape was all wrong. so, we'll salvage whet we can and work from there. We ordered some new tight radius 4' stainless bends in an attempt to rebuild the rear section. Mega shout out to Brian from Ace Exhaust for his persistence and his impeccable work. After many hours, he managed to get the IRS section to fit correctly

Now that the bottom end was together, a head was sourced a stripped. It was them dried to suit the 14.3mm head studs. At this point, we decided to concentrate on the top end and look for areas where we could increase efficiency. With this in mind, we decided to port the runners and fit larger valves. We opted for a new set of Ferrea valves, with a 4mm oversize intake and 3mm oversize exhaust. Due to obvious increase in valve size, new seats were sourced and installed. Porting of the runners commenced and is now close to final finish. Unfortunately, due to the holidays, we were unable to get the seats Cnc'd. So, I will have to wait until the machinist reopens in the new year. We should have planned this better.....

At the end of October, I managed to align some time with my days with my engine guys availability. We made the most of the time that we had, and we bolted the bottom end together. this however, was not without technical issues.... We painted the block prior to assemblyand we realised soon after that we had not drilled the dipstick facility into the FG block, so we masked off the engine, and with the assistance of a sharp drill and some valve stem reamers, we drilled the dipstick hole... We the unboxed all of the goodies and lay them out on the build table. Upon unpacking the pistons, we identified a shortfall in the pins that were supplied with the JE pistons. The pins were wall thickness were quite thin in their wall construction and could distort. Obviously this could be be problematic, given the power that I want to achieve. So, we changed the pins out with a thick walled set that he had ordered for customer, that he is building a 2JZ for..... The picture below speaks volumes.... Having changed these out, we connected the rods to the pistons and fitted the mains studs, crank and caps to the engine and then installed the pistons. All good!!! Or so it seemed.... Soon after we fitted the 10mm girdle and found that the main studs were too short, and we could only achieve half a nut on the main studs. A quick phone call to the supplier, identified the issue. Apparently, you have to place 10mm (from memory) ball bearings down each mains stud to allow it to bottom, which in turn, increases the stud height and allows a full nut on each stud. Not exactly what I wanted to hear at the time, as this created additional delays (as engine guy's shed is out of town). GRRRR!!! So having considered the requirement, and engine guy having to go to town to pick up his children from school. We decided to err on the side of caution and get addition ball bearings to suite the 14.3 mm head studs, should they require it..At this point, I had run out of time and had to depart for my 5hr drive out to work. Hence, why I do not have any pictures of the complete assembled bottom end... A little disappointing, but we have moved forward, and the bottom end is now complete.

With reliability in mind, I purchased an Atomic 10mm mains girdle, Atomic Ovate valve springs, Atomic anti pump lifters, Atomic 10mm girdle, Atomic 14.3mm head studs, VCM suite and another 2 Bosch 044's. Atomic Main studs. Atomic oil pump. Atomic Balancer and anchorlock.. As this will be a direct engine changeout (there being no donor engine), and as some of the components on the engine in the car being a bit long in the tooth, it was decided to purchase all new ancillieries and components. This included every bolt for the engine to be purchased new through Ford. New sump.. New plugs and coils.. We upgraded the alternator to a 200 amp one, due to increased power draw of the fuel pumps and stereo system. New starter motor, water pump, idler, tensioner and power steering pump.

OK, enough of the cosmetic stuff. Let's get down to the performance elements... I purchased e new FG F6 short engine from Ford. We stripped the short, in preparation for better internals and the crank was sent to get Nitrided, This strengthens the crank and relieves it. While not been a necessity, it was done with the view of longevity and reducing wear. The crank was returned with standard size journals, so ACL Race Series bearing were purchased. The standard F6 pistons and rods. Crank after it returned from being Nitrided. Atomic 998 "Phat rods" replace the Standard F6 conrods. The rods were sent with the Crank, for the small and bushes to be machined to suit the gudgeon pins. We considered piston selection for some time, and ended up purchasing a set of JE forged pistons. As we started the build with a new block, we were able to use standard size pistons. The block was honed to the required clearance specifications, for the boost that we intend to run.

Over the past few months, I have been freshening my old girl. Some that frequent Ford Forums may have already view it's progress, for those that haven't, read on..... This is the old girl, she's a been a faithful and honest daily driver. She has been dressed in this guise for some years now, So, I thought that it's time for a change. With this in mind, I have sourced new genuine DJR pods and skirts and BA XR6 front and rear bars. A new boot lid and DJR lip spoiler have Genuine DJR pods and Skirts... Front bar almost completed... The carbon fibre splitters that I purchased for the build, do not fit correctly. So, I will be making a mould and fabricating a new one soon... Boot lid, skirts and lip spoiler fitted. I damaged one of my Speedy Envy Rims, so I purchased a set of Vertini Drift's.

I think that Daryn Hohns went 1383 rwhp (from memory) around four weeks ago. It seems that there is a lot more left in it, as it was down around 200hp due to cam timing issues. During the tuning session, it cracked the spark plug tube on the head, so another is being sourced.

I would be keen on a set of  "The Driveshaft Shop 1400hp" drive shafts. :D

I went for a Viper, as they are a quality system and fully intergrated. It has a glass break and vehicle tilt sensors.