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yes LSD first, suspension later

It might be worth looking at turbo actuator and test it, otherwise I would first look at ignition coils and plugs, which you already did. Look for any leaks or cracked plastic (if you still have factory plastic) in the piping from turbo all the way through intercooler to intake manifold. Also check fuel supply pressure. Depending on the pressure, it might be good on low revs, but starves engine of fuel on higher revs. If all of this comes out good, then I would shift my attention to transmission. I know that FG model deliberately misfires between gear changes in order to save transmission from brutal torque in auto transmission. I don't know whether they implemented this feature in previous models. Now, I would assume if this controlled misfire between grars is to become uncontrolled, then anything could happen, but nothing good, that's for sure...

Mine's blitz.

Yes, I got one. It's not bothering me at all. Light is blue at night to match the rest of ambient lighting and it seems to be just the right amount of blue light, so it's not intrusive. But thinking about it, I'd rather now have that turbo gauge on top of the centre dashboard lid (above screen display). I think it looks better there along with maybe oil pressure gauge.

I don't understand those nasty replies to mike... Man simply asked very reasonable question to see your opinions. Yes, we all love our XR6T and we are all sorry it is becoming a history, but people you need to move on!! We all laughed at KIAs 10 years ago. Since their Optima GT I'm not laughing any more. They are showing what their capabilities are in designing cars. Give them a few more years, and they will be on par with the best Japan has to offer. Look at their engines in KIA vehicles. Power to liter output is very respectable. Now I'm not 100% sure they reached a point where they can develop an engine with huge power in a relatively small block without issues, but that remains to be seen...

that's correct as keith said. although I would suggest if you decide to replace one, you should replace other as well. reason being is whatever caused first o2 sensor to deteriorate is probably causing second one to deteriorate as well

mine is exactly like yours. that's how I bought it. Had it for 2 years, never had any issues with anybody including cops.

nice one. my favourite white and black wheels and tinted windows. very nice contrast

Hey, here's the link where I bought mine. Had it for 2 months now and no problem. http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/GENUINE-VDO-FORD-FALCON-AU-BA-BF-FG-FGX-FPV-XR8-XR6-TURBO-OXYGEN-SENSORS-O2-/292037687903?hash=item43fecd7a5f%3Ag%3AmfwAAOxy0QBSS5xF&_trkparms=pageci%253A46518b1b-fd87-11e6-873c-74dbd180a4b1%257Cparentrq%253A839d5b9f15a0a2af569a87f6ffe958f8%257Ciid%253A1

You know that those machines can be quite thirsty if pushed hard. But there are other factors directly affecting fuel economy. My FG XR6T was getting really bad fuel economy on 98 octane fuel recently. Average fuel consumption was showing me 18l/100km and I could only manage only just over 300km out of fuel tank on mostly highway driving. Soon after, my dashboard showed engine check light. After checking the code I came to conclusion it is HEGO (heated exhaust oxygen sensor) sensor. There are 2 sensors in FG model. One before catalytic converter and one after. It is recommended to change both sensors at the same time. Ordered new set from ebay. Found set of 2 for $90, normally they are around $250. Replaced them, there's no more engine check light and my fuel economy is 12l/100km now. Still on the high side for my liking, but then again those are not standard engines. Also sometimes thermostat is not closing properly and engine can't get out of warm up loop. It causes excessive fuel consumption. But that is easy to tell if your dash temperature gauge is showing lower coolant temperature then normal. It is worth cleaning injectors as well and check for any vacuum leaks on the intake manifold. Apparently those bolts on the intake side need to be checked on regular basis. If there's vacuum leak there it causes mighty nightmare for ecu and all sorts of crazy behaviours.

diff bushes can be up to $1200, so they are not cheap. also check rear control blade bushings as that's another common problem.

welcome nice machine you got there!

check rear control blade bushing as well. very common for them to fail before 100k. also that there's no vibrations during drive as it might be tailshaft balancing problem. ask whether owner replaced filter in little oil feed line to turbo. they tend to clog up and cause catastrophic turbo failure if bearings get starved of fresh oil.

thanks buddy!

Can't find anything on Western side of Melbourne. There's someone on the east, but couldn't find anything on the western side. Tried to caal this guy on the eastern side after Christmas, but he didn't answer his phone, probably on holidays...

nah, couldn't find any specialist to do this. went to exhaust workshop and guy there checked whether there's any leak around snapped bolt, said there's no leak. he realised this would be a literally nightmare to take this snapped bolt inside cylinder head and advised me to leave it as it is. I managed to force another M8 bolt until it touched snapped one inside. it is just enough to hold the spot, so it is not gaping hole there... not happy with it, but don't know what to do..

I would eliminate clogged fuel filter and misfiring injector first and then move on to other areas..

Thank you guys for help! I'll call dr or mr bolt and give them a go. It was doing my head in for the last a couple of days thinking how am I going to fix this issue. And hopefully once this is sorted， it'll get rid of other code issue! Cheers guys and enjoy this [emoji297] weekend around Melbourne[emoji3]

Good. I'll do that.

Hey thanks buddy really appreciate you trying to help me! I know the procedure for straightforward extraction of snapped bolt， but this frigging bolt being all the way back near the firewall， I can't get my drill anywhere near it， with hoses in the way. Even removing hoses， it looks like it has to be done with right angle drill to get to it. I'm not scared of complicated work as I've successfully replaced many items on different cars including heads， all bushings on my previous falcon ED， but this one I feel like giving it to a pro to do it properly! How much do you reckon they would charge for this procedure?

Trying to fix one thing，f*** *p another， although it seems to me it was already screwed and next person fiddling with it will cop it and that's what happened.

Nope! Bolt snapped just at the wall of head. Nothing to grab it to...

How much did those awesome calipers cost you?

Hi guys! My fg xr6t car recently started behaving strange. First it presented engine check on instrument cluster. I checked a code with an OBD2 adapter and it is powertrain code P1131. Looked at gregory's service manual and it says "PCM attempting to correct a constantly lean". Then，a few days later when I turned the car on， idling revs weren't constant， there was slight jumping of needle up and down. Nothing significant. My surprise came on the traffic lights! When I stopped at the lights revs started wildly going up and down. Car felt it is going to stall and engine management was trying to correct impending stall... I stopped on the side of the road，put auto in park， revs went back to more or less normal. Now， first thing that I could think of was， there's a vacuum leak somewhere. Got my torque wrench and set it to 17NM and checked all the intake manifold bolts. Found nothing loose all good. Now， my exhaust side manifold feels like there's a leak somewhere. I have aftermarket venom catalytic converter and bolts were found to be loose where it joins with factory exhaust manifold once I took it to exhaust place. Maybe they are loosened again， since I can hear elevated droning noise coming from exhaust manifold area. Checked exhaust manifold bolts to 24 NM all were good except for the last one towards the back of the engine. When I tried to tighten it SNAP! I snapped the bolt in half. Half of bolt is left in the head. I was cursing heavens and hell. Whoever was working on that manifold obviously felt bolt was lettin go and it was going to snap and left the bolt in that state. When I checked this high tention bolt， it was held in place just by small area. The rest was rusty in cros sectional area of the bolt except small shiny area when I tried to tighten it and it snapped![emoji33] Could this exhaust manifold area problem of not sealing properly cause my symptoms and above mentioned code? Now I'll have to take it to someone to put a helicoil where bolt snapped. It will be an absolute ba****d of a job，since it is the last bolt in the engine towards firewall with coolant hoses in the way!![emoji51]

Hey xrboost， I have exactly the same question. My car is fg turbo. I would like to ask others with this mod already done， how loud is induction noise compared to factory setup? Is it just slightly louder， or is it the case of hearing more of induction noise than engine?