XR6TK1W1

Peddels are the same just on other side of car. But some times I gas with no feet, but I have a silly smile.

Do the same proceedure but instead of pluging and unplugging the seat belt try removing and replacing the fuel cap

I remember on my old EF it made a similar sound which eminated from the water pump. Went away pretty quick when the car warmed up. Sorta sounded like a mix between an electronic horn and a squeek. Not sure if that helps.

I was talking to to Paul isaac Ford ( NZ's Herrod agent ) and he says the Herrod system gave them 14 RWKW on there test car. This also included a K&N filter. It was a Cat back system 3" to the rear muffler and 2 2.5" tail pipes. Apart from the sound I reckon that's not a bad increase for starters. He tests all his products personally and is straight up.

Bugger the missile, fit the Jet engine to the T!!!! I wonder if it has the range to get to Aussie and blow up the Australian Idol recording facility. Go the Kiwis!!!!!!

Basically its a credit card but not accepted at all places like Visa or Mastercard. It links with certain products and companys to get discounts etc. Elders ( EVIA ) I think is only in NZ, but there must be something in Aussie similar to this.

Since I do alot of riding ( Horses Ken ) I know full well that you bring your own stick!!!!! Only real problem is were you put that stick on arrival to engauge the manual function.

I used an Elders card. Gives you cheaper fuel at BP and Caltex plus other discounts. Plus 12% off the new price at any Ford dealer. Then it comes down to the old fashiond Haggle.

Since Mick is a purist, I wonder if if hes gonna take the car back to FoMoCo and have the traction control, EBD, ABS, etc removed from his car. All these things take away the pure driving affect and limit the exact control of the car by the human input. Pure is the fun you get outta the car. Towing in a manual is sh*te, the clutch slips if towing heavy up hill ( although you have to have the weight right up there and a steep hill ) Ever reversed up a incline with a manual, ever wondered what that funny smell is. Buy a manual for track days and an auto for real world applications. Love them both.

Yep just undo the front grill ( one with the Ford badge on it ) and there they are. Sound like a stragled cat through. I pulled them out and put in a Claxton horn, Scares the sh*t outta old ladies but gets a few laughs. AAAAARRRRROOOOOOOOOOGGGGGGGAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA :D

The NZ price for the Turbo is $56,400. But no one pays that unless they are stupid. Can get it a fair bit cheaper through loyalty cards etc. I got mine for abotu the same price as the XR6 was.

Pretty sure it's the same size reguardless of the option, standard, prestige or premium. There was some talk about the screen size being difference in NZ? Buried away in a thread somewhere? No same size. But Ford in it's wisdom only has the Turbo with premium sound as standard in NZ. The XR6 has it as an option. Not sure why could be to do with NZ being more supportive to Ford over the years but I doubt it.

Don't forget to add LED's to the rice boiler temp display!! :o

I just did mine with a standard LED in parallel with the ones for the passenger rear switch. Had to cut a bit of plastic in the switch body since there is a divider between the cut off and the other switches as you well know. Again since its a standard LED and not surface mount you may have to fiddle with the alignment and may have to change your resistor value if the brightness changes. And Daga, as for there being lights in your swiches. Is your car premium sound? If it is then if there were lights they would work at a guess. Other than that may be a switch fault and something is heating up and glowing. Easy to find out though, get a screw driver and start ripping things to bits, its just so damm fun!!!

I had the same experiance with one of our FRV Tickford club members. His car was pretty new and mine had 8000k on the clock but I made it look silly from a standing start, but it did look very impressive I was told to see a GT-P and a Turbo slide around the corner together at full noise. The GT-P had the wood on the handling side, and the braking and the look and the sound and the feel and the way it made me feel all warm and fuzzy when he gave me a hoon of it.

The easy way for the Driver control pin is to just put a slight bend at the board end and slide it in through the plug hole, it lines right up very little adjusting to get it in. There is a full explanation in my How to earlier in this thread. As for the windows staying lit, it only happens on mine when my fog light button is left on. Not sure why this is but there is a diode on the fairmont wiring diagram that may stop this. I never worried about changing this as I find it no problem since in the day time there is no way I can see them. As for the window cut off LED NT Turbo put a red one in and it looks awesome. I origanaly did it with standard LED's but got rid of it when I went the the SMD LED's. And yes 14 is the magic number, since you can only buy them in lots of six ( well that's the case here ) you should have 4 left over if ya cook a few.

I have an exhaust tip! DON'T PUT YOUR LIPS ON THE TAIL PIPE AFTER EXTREME DRIVING.

Choice be buggered! Nothing more than a Mini Moke roof down of course! Unless someone can come come up with a better (more suitable suggestion)! Make him push a Commodore!!!!!!!!

No worries mate happy to help. :D

Do a search on Blue window switches and its all there. A few pages to go through but there is instructions for non premium and premium sound cars. Hope this helps.

When I ordered mine I was going to go leather. Saw it and hated it although the feel was nice, to black and dull for my liking. They just happend to have a Venom one with plexis red I could have that week. Went to all Ford dealers to see if I could find one and I found an XR6 N/A with it as a demo. Hated it at first but after sitting in it for a while it really grew on me. Now I think it would be my first choice. Not as bright as it first seems. Enjoy the beast and welcome to the brotherhood!!!!!

I found when I did the origanal blue LED's in my window switches that direction was critical. They were bright enough when lined up right but if a little off line SFA! I changed to SMD LED's and it worked much better. If the boost gauge had an incandesant lamp as a back light you may well need to go to multiple LED's since a 20 spread just want light it up. The 5mm LED's you used is what I used for the Fog and Traction switches and you had to line them up as well as blank the back of them off to make the switch work right. As for the boost gauge ever thought of making up a ring of SMD LED's, a little trickey but would work nicely IMO.

I'd ask for something extra like mats, scuff plates etc since he gave you a false expectation. He should know his product intimatley, sheeessh they've only been out for oh gee nearly a year!!

No worries mate. Dependant on the LED you use, you may have to playaround with the angle it sits in the switch to get both switches the same brightness.

LED's were just standard run of the mill LED's with I think from memory 650 ohm 1/4 watt resistor. Soldierd it straight to the brass contact points that the Lamp conects to. Easy as that.