GUN-808

yeah mate they are pretty good up here.. although we still have corners, dips and speed humps lol

I have SSLs all round like Matty above.. I also have the Monroe Shocks.. With the stock rims it sits well and is no trouble even with a full tank of fuel and 2 people in the back.. It also allows me to tow and still have clearance.. I chose the SSL not the SSSL(like most others) on the rear for this very reason.. I just put 275s on 20s and even by myself and no passengers it "just" rubs on 1 side.. SSSLs would have been no go and id be spewing.. Just remember this as if u choose rims later it may effect drivability.. I think SL would be similar to stock but a touch lower.. With SSL on the front my main issue is scratching the front lower bar and it happens A LOT now and im continually touching it up.. My advice is to go SL fronts and SSL rears which will give u the flat look your after.. and this will give u the mm drop your after too..

Cool.. yeah iv already got the quote for that locally and the owner of Versus said I can take up to 5mm safely... I just wanted it going for the time being but will do that when I need new tyres and go bigger.. Legally u need the width of the stud (1/2") in thread depth.. so ill have a measure and see how I get on.. Im a big fan like Matty is in profile so I dont know how ya cop the 25 series lol

Ud want to run at least a 10" rim to sort a 295 and looking at my 18s if they were 1" wider either way ya'd run into problems in a few areas that the 20s clear..

Yeah TomT.. they are based on my G6.. gives ya a heap of inside clearance for the 20s and wider rubber.. based on the offset though.. I reckon a 40-42 is the perfect offset for these cars, space the blade out and 295s are close to perfection, possibly roll the lip a touch..

Rednose is urs the project 305 car in here somewhere ?? Iv made up a spacer kit to space my blades out the extra 5-6mm in case I go wider but with the +38 its the outside where I dont have the clearance.. :( Iv made up a few sets extra to sell so if ya want a set let me know.. I just have to drill em out and they are good to go ready to bolt on..

Sweet I owe ya a carton when ya get to the Goldie haha yeah I know ya pain..iv gone from a 315-50-15 on the old beastie so the rubber on this thing doesent cut it with me either LOL

also interested in this mate.. im about to drop $1150 around xmas on a Harrop from my diff bloke here..

Iv just been thru the WHOLE tyre thing mate and im glad its over.. inc reading the 61 pages of FG offsets thread LOL Cant comment on the fronts more than ya might get a 255-35-30 without work BUT the rears are very touch and go.. I wanted the same as u, nt05s in a 35, but im actually glad I didnt go with the 35s on the rear or id be stuffed.. The diffs in these things are mostly never centred so one side clears fine and the other scrubs.. Iv gone with an EVO Federal which is a 280mm 275.. it JUST touches on the drivers side with a 38 offset.. the nitto is a 271mm 275 so almost 10mm difference.. so a nt05 is skinny but I dont think it would accommodate the extra height.. im running SSLs all round too if this helps..

Matty its a feature on the Xcal.. im pretty sure ya just input new tyre size and it does the maths for ya.. asked my tuner yest actually if I can do it to suit new shoes and he said no worries to do when its in for tune nex Friday IM thinking there is only 1 input in the Xcal so have come up with a theory.. As im running staggered tyres (u probably are same boat) im gunna average both tyre size % differences, then try and find a tyre size that's as close to that mark as I can.. should trick comp into getting pretty close to the mark.. so a 245-35/20 is out by 4.03% and a 275-30/20 is out by 3.03% so need a tyre that's out by 3.53% or close enough to input into computer..

ahuh cool thanx guys.. had no idea about the mixing and matching..

Is there any reason that their billet input shaft these guys sell wont fit with the ZF box as most of the other parts seem interchangeable.. ? Seems u can get the stage 2 kit, seals gaskets and a shaft for well under 2K sent.. pretty sure any reputable box builder can take care of the install for under 1k so 3k all up.. Gearbox shops and people who can build gearboxes well are 2 very different people and their prices are chalk and cheese too shop around peoples..

Theres a place in Toowoomba called Gilroys Automatics that iv came across in my travels and research.. Heard very good things up here about their work and they are very cheap.. Not sure what shafts they have on offer to compliment their builds BUT they are very reasonably priced.. IIRC their full house build was just under 3K.. not sure when this was written and if things have changed but its worth a call to find out I guess.. I would do it but im not there yet and dont like to hassle people about work I am not in a direct position to complete asap and prices can also change by then.. they are on my short list to enquire from when I do my box in the near future though.. Gilroys Automatics 76 Mort St, North Toowoomba QLD 4350 (07) 4639 1264

Handbrake it is then :D Thanx Jon..

Im running an 82 with a billet front wheel (MTA750) I think iv tried both and cant really see more than 18-1900rpm definately no where near 2700 though.. Iv mostly used the performance mode, stall in 2nd then hit it back to 1st to trick computer method.. cant get better than I think a 2.08 best usually 2.1s.. Im not sure at what rpm it starts to wheelspin but holding the handbrake on may make a difference and allow it to come up harder on convertor.. Ill wait till shaft is done and give it a crack..

yep that's the bloke.. his handle is GLC -323 on the Ausrotary forums.. never heard of it going if I can remember correctly..

hes got something goin on that's magic that's for sure Matty LOL

and is that your 323 in your sig ?? I think I remember the car being GLC-323 or something is that right ?

Ahuh I knew there was something different that was happening.. I cant for the life of me get mine to stall up into the 2000s so theres the difference that your leaving on some sort of revs and boost.. im just about to uprate my shaft and fit some better tyres so ill have another crack then.. u said urs is still all stock box and box tune wise yeah ?? just wondering how urs gets up so high on the stall :/

Hey buddy any chance u can share your launch secrets with us ? U were saying u dont manually shift well yet so just wondering how u go about getting off the line ? Just in D in performance all the way any stall etc ? love to know some more as mine is a donkey off the line when im trying to manual shift and I need something better to get me some lower numbers well done on the achievements btw :D

double post

Yeah I think im still going to go down the path with the XR lower.. If I can find a cheapy and cut out the inserts I reckon ill be able to make it work by painting the inserts and sticking with the silver ring and chrome trim.. Anyone know the paintcode for the silver in the stock G6ET grilles ?? I need to touch up the tabs anyways but might get a bit extra and have a play around.. There is a bloke who anodises close by so might enquire whats the damage to get the cooler done..

Lol sooooo many options hahaha I'm gunna leave it for a bit and see how it grows on me.. I think a black anodised cooler would be pretty trick but atm I'm kinda liking the silver trim still .. maybe changing it to a gunmetal half black half silver would be the go lol

Ok so if u havent gathered already im kinda the most impatient person there is LOL So the last few hrs have been spent cutting out the grille.. And I can say it looks AWESOME :D only thing is the bars/grilles are too forward and not thick like the XR type and extending back to the rear.. so far anyways I have to colour where the tabs have come off and exposed the black plastic.. so bar off grille out and a sharp blade later heres the result :D ill get some better pix later in the sun outside..

Yep Wombat thanx (are u the loose cannon that EFSIX speaks of or is this another example ?) hahahaha and yeah mattyp it does look pretty darn good without the mesh.. I think im off to the shed LOL Might plastidip the centre bit out first to see if it suits.. then the chop if it does :D