MercuryT

I have recently fitted the setup that Simon @ Nizpro recommends. What a difference this has made, great feel and awesome stopping power! They are a 4 pot CSC caliper with a 356mm grooved and vented rotor with alumininium hats. These JUST fit inside the standard 17" rim. Unlike the Harrops as pictured they have 3 bolts at each end of the caliper for reduced flex. I think Simon sells this complete kit for about the $3,250 - $3,500 mark, they come with great pads (Ferodo 2500) and have so far proven to be excellent. I have attached a photo of the setup (Sorry about the brake dust, it has been 2 weeks since I washed my car, Victoria on Stage 2 water restrictions!!)

I have standard Mk 1 rims which will suit a 330mm rotor. AP Racing is owned by Brembo and from the research I have done are a great setup. They are well priced at $3,250 drive in, drive out. The have a large selection of pads available with different compounds. I am thinking maybe I should buy some bigger rims (18 or 19") and then get 356mm rotors. Still trying to make a decision.

I am looking at a set of 4 Spot AP Racing Calipers, Rotors & Hats to suit the front of my T. I am told they will fit with the standard 17" wheels and will dramatically improve my braking performance. I did a track day last Friday @ Sandown and had serious brake fade after only 2 laps. I wondered if anybody has fitted these brake and if so, what are your thoughts? Thanks

I am looking at lowering my car and wanted to know if anyone has some suggestions as to good places to go in Melbourne. I got quoted $1,000 for a Monroe Package, $1,300 for a Pedders Package and $1,700 for a Koni Package. These packages included springs, shocks & fitting. Is that good value or can I do better? Any suggestions?? Thanks

Count me in as well

I am sure most people will agree the first thing you should do is an EDIT with a Custom Tune. It will turn the standard car into a weapon. Expect about 250RWKW with just an EDIT. Keeping in mind the standard car makes about 180 - 190 RWKW, so it is a 30% improvement. EDIT and Custom Tune should cost about $2K finished. That is the beginnning but be warned, once you start it will be very difficult to stop with the mods. Buy the MkII Auto, it is quicker than a manual And it gives you a spare hand to talk on the Mobile!!

Hey Robin, We have tried plug gap, down to as low as .05 and still no good. Simon was wondering if it was a poor earth because it has burnt out a few Coil Packs. But it is not an issue in 3rd so that also puts holes in that theory! I have no idea what to do next! When I first got the EDIT done Dave replaced all the plugs with new OE regapped ones (I think .08) The car seemed OK for a few days but has come back and has been an ongoing issue for a few months now. The only good thing about this issue is that it was giving me problems before I got the EDIT so I know it is not a NizPro problem. Simon wants to build me a new tune slowly and see where it develops the misfire and then they can work back from there. This sounds like the only solution!! Simon told me has never seen anything like this before which was always going to happen with my car!!!

No. I have put the NizPro 98 file back in it as it is a far nicer car even with the misfire. It is 100% better off boost than the standard file and I don't drive it hard but occasionally when I want to give it a squirt it misfires and that really annoys me. It is now out of warranty but Westpoint Ford know about this issue and have told me that they will look after me. I understand that if it doesn't play up at standard that their hands are tied. I am trying to get it to Simon and leave it for a few days but have been busy.

Hey Geea, Traction Control on or off, it doesn't matter. The auto certainly doesn't seem to be slipping. We can get this to happen "on demand" on the dyno. NizPro checked fuel pressure as well and no problems there. I am running out of ideas. When Ford tried to fix it they said that the "numbers" they were getting from the diagnostic tool didn't make any sense and that is why I needed to put it back to standard.

Hi All, As you have read before I have had and continue to have a problem with an engine misfire. Basically what happens is if I load the engine up in 2nd or 4th in manual mode it gets to about 2,750 - 3,000rpm and has this misfire like the traction control is working yet the light is not flashing. The problem only occurs in 2nd and 4th. In 3rd the car is great, no misfire, nothing!! Ford have replaced a burnt out PCM along with a few coil packs. When the problem was still there they told me to put back the standard Ford file and surprise surprise the problem goes away, they are now saying "not our problem". Simon & Dave @ NizPro have been extremely helpful but are at a lose as to what is the cause. I was hoping somebody might be able to shed some light on this issue. My Processor code is one of the lucky ones that doesn't have the "Force Motor Control" for the transmisson in it and I am wondering if it has something to do with the torque limiting of the engine to prevent destruction of my auto. One of the holes in this theory is that 3rd should be worse than 2nd and it is great in 3rd!! Simon & Dave have replaced all 6 coil packs, fitted new regapped Typhoon plugs and still no good. If I leave the car in Auto it seems better because it is able to rev through this band quicker. It still does it in 2nd, like when I turn a corner and apply about 1/2 throttle, not enough to make it kick down to 1st but enough to make it rev beyond 3,000 rpm. Any ideas??

Sport Comp Oil Pressure Here is the link to the Oil Pressure Gauge I used. I bought this from Egauges.com and had it within 5 days. I think it was $50usd plus shipping. Over $100 Aussie dollars here. The size for gauges is 66mm. Sport Comp Boost gauge Above is the link to the boost gauge I used. I love the size of them!! I have the white lights in them and they great at night. I have a mailing service in the US which is basically a mailbox at a UPS store. Some US websites don't let you mail internationally so I just buy what I need and then send it to my mail box and then the boys at the UPS store send it to me in Aus using USPS (United States Postal Service) or UPS. I normally get things within 5 or 6 days. It works a treat!!

I have just had my Boost and Oil Pressure Gauges fitted in a SS inductions Pod. I am very happy with the way they look.

Attached is a copy of the New Dyno Graphs after my new PCM was fitted. The car is still fantastic. It seems to get better and better all the time

I actually spoke with Dave about that exact issue this morning and he said that they had flow tested a set of BF Typhoon injectors and they flow exactly the same as a T. He had no idea how they are getting the fuel out of them. I am sure somebody will be able to shed light on how FPV are making them work!!

So, I had my car re-tuned this morning and the results continue to improve!! The car made a little over 260 RWKW but ran out of injector and valve spring so Dave turned it down a bit and I ended up with 257RWKW. I will post the graphs when I get a chance but the car is fantastic again. Thanks NizPro!!

Everybody is at a loss to explain why this has happened. It confirms to me that Simon is super switched on with the BA/BF product as he said to me that he thought it was a Coil Driver issue. This turned out to be exactly the problem. He suspects some other cars are affected with this issue but until they completely fail like my car, it is very hard to trace. The problem started very small for me, with only the occasional mis-fire but then went rapidly down hill in the last few days. The boys at Etheridge said that they had only seen 2 or 3 cars with this problem. Anyway, the car is sweet again, looking forward to getting the tune back into it. Catch you tomorrow. Simon

For the last 6 weeks or so I had an intermitent engine mis-fire. When I had my EDIT done last week and we fitted new plugs the mis-fire seemed to disappear. Anyway since Monday the problem has returned and seemed to be getting worse! Cold morning starts were terrible, in to netural at the lights and a high idle with the car coughing and spluttering. I spoke with Simon @ NizPro and he advised me to bring the car back and he would look at a few things. We replaced all 6 coil packs, still no good, checked the spark plug gap again, all .08. We put the standard Ford tune back in and the car was terrible, noticably worse than with the EDIT tune in. Anyway, I took the car back to Westpoint who have been doing my service and have had several goes at determing this problem and they said "Sorry, can't look at until Friday week the 28th" That was over 10 days away, the car was running on 5 cylinders, gulping fuel and just being a horror to drive. Not Happy Jan! Anyway, spoke to Simon and he suggested Etheridge in Ringwood, so booked it in yesterday and took the car down this morning. Explained what Simon had done and also that he suggested it was probably the coil driver so they looked straight at the PCM. Did some tests and found the coil driver stuffed, this had also fried #6 coil pack!!! Changed the PCM and the coil pack. The new PCM is a newer harware & software version. This new version then wouldn't talk to the transmission. It kept throwing a code, anyway they ended up downloading the old file from another customers car and putting it in my new PCM. (They couldn't use use my PCM file as the driver was stuffed) The boys at Etheridge did a great job and the car is now beautiful again. So I leave and then try and reload my EDIT. The long and short of it is because the Processor number on the PCM has changed the EDIT needs to be reset!! Just lost a life! Anyway, Dave spends an hour or so trying to manipulate the file to work with the new processor number but the engine is just not happy. So anyway back to NIZpro in the morning for a re-tune!! I will let you know the end result.

I only use the big brands fuel (Shell, Mobil, BP) and only use Optimax, 8000 or Ultimate. The tune was done on Optimax.

I have just spent a few hours out cruising with a few mates and they can't believe the improvement!! The car is an absolute jet And this is with "ONLY" 252 RWKW, what must cars that are into the 300's be like?? It idles sweet as a nut, cruises along quietly (If you can resist the temptation to mash the pedal!) but when the pedal meets the carpet, helloooo angel of acceleration!!!! The tune still continues to blow me away with its driveability. At any RPM it is sooooo much stronger and is so smooth. It just keeps pulling! I also love that big boost dump sound when you come off the throttle. I don't think I could be happier except for maybe more power!! I think I have caught the disease. God, I love being infected

Here is a copy of my Dyno Charts. Let me know what you think.

There was no mention of an Auto cooler! I better ask if it will be OK. I think the boost topped out just over 12 PSI but in the middle of the rev range averages mid 11's. I will post the Dyno Graphs and you can see how it looks. Simon was pretty happy with the way the engine produces boost as he said some cars have a tendency to fall over at the top of the rev range. The more I drive the car the more I love it. I think I will have to upgrade my brakes now!! Seem to be using them alot more! Congrats mate. I'm running 249.5rwkw, edit, tuned by HPF, and loving it. Did Nizpro recommend u for a trans cooler? Also, How much boost are u running? ←

I am running the standard injectors. The car actually made nearly 260 RWKW but was starting to lean off so Dave pulled some boost out and the AFR's are all sweet. I think the next step will be injectors and valve springs but I need to save my dollars!!

After a little stuffing around, including looking for another mis-fire (Fitted new plugs, no mis fire!!), I finally got my car edited by the boys @ NizPro. The results are sensational!! Standard was 184 RWKW the end result is 252 RWKW. I will post the Graphs tonight when I get home. The staggering part is the off boost performance! Just a little tickle and it leaps away. I am now making the same power (184) at about 3,200rpm. The car just keeps pulling! They also did an end of warranty check over and the car is in good shape. A few little cosmetic items, nothing mechanical, which I was happy about. A big thanks to Simon, Dave & Ryan for a fantastic result. You can see why these guys are regarded as the best in the business!! Thanks again boys!!

Dave @ NizPro told me to keep away from the Oil Temp gauge as it would scare me as the oil temperature runs very high, even with relaxed driving. He suggested Oil Pressure. I am having an Oil Pressure and Boost / Vacuum gauge fitted today and I will post a photo of them when finished.