karlp2

Picked up the car this afternoon, dyno tune after the mods came in at 337.4 rwkw and torque was 713nm. The guys doing the work were really impressed with the Process West intercooler and kit, everything fitted perfectly - the best kit they've come across. Exhaust has made a huge difference to how it sounds, even at idle it sounds awesome and looks great too. Very happy!!

Car is in this week getting the work done, decided to also add in a full xforce stainless exhaust system. Can't wait to see what it ends up at on the dyno and to drive it

Hi, just looking at a number of mods to my car, and wondered if this system will hang down any lower than a standard one? My g6et is on superlows and I have issues with the exhaust flange below the front seat catching on lower driveways etc. thanks

Hi, Have my G6ET that I'd like to get to 300rwkw, a local tuner has suggested the following combination to get me there, car is stock otherwise: Siemens 630cc injectors Walbro 400lph fuel pump Process west stage 1 intercooler Dynotune Appreciate your thoughts, cheers Karl

Hi, keen for your thoughts on whether or not you think these wheels looks will look good on my G6ET, the car is Havanna as per profile pic. Wheels are a bit dearer than some of the deals you guys get in Ausi, these are a fair price for here Link: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1140325192 Cheers

It's been tuned for about a year, I've only just noticed the issue, thanks

Is a 19" rim, 9" wide with 35 offset okay front and rear on my g6et which is also on super low Springs? A local shop has a set of four that I'm thinking about, probably would have preferred 8.5s on the front but the wheels are a good price

G6ET... 109ks on the clock, cars only had an entry level tune and has always been regularly servived. When driving it cold at about 50km/h if I slightly increase the acceleration I can briefly hear and feel a shudder and vibration. I can't pinpoint it but suspect it's coming from either the diff or gearbox. It goes in for a service tomorrow and I wouldn't mind your thoughts on what it might be? I'm hoping it's not the auto slipping. It only does it when cold and at low revs - like around 1400rpm Thanks for your help.

Thanks for the links, that is really helpful. Cheers

Hi, have a stock G6ET, I'd like to get it up to a min of 300rwkw on 98 pump gas (that's all we get up to in NZ). What mods would typically achieve this? My tuner is coming back to me but has so far said injectors (what size?), fuel pump, process west intercooler (size?). He also said to replace the plastic piping for reliability. What would you recommend? Cheers for your help.

Hi, has any else experienced issues with the Goodyear Eagle F1s getting cracked inner sidewalks? I've just had the second pair split, have never let them go below 40psi, normally run 42. Pissed me off still had 6mm tread on the first pair, and now this second pair still have 4mm. The tyre shop are saying that I must have let them run under inflated. Anyway just wondering if others have had this issue with this tyre?

Thanks for the feedback, much appreciated!

Have the factory 19's with 245s that are due to be replaced shortly (rear tyres). Can that rim take a wider tyre, like a 275? Will there be any issues with clearance? What profile height would it be for this?

Spoke to my local tuner, was looking for a basic tune over stock for my G6E turbo. I have a fuel card through work but in NZ Shell/Z only do 91 and 95 octane so run 95, when have cruises come up I buy 98 elsewhere. Tuner said he can tune to suit 95, he didn't recommend tuning for 98 if dropping back to 95. His alternative option was for another NZ$600 he could do both tunes with them loaded onto a SCT X4, for clarity he is doing a full dynotune. Bit of a pain Shell not doing 98 otherwise would just tune for that. Is the tuner right with what he's saying or do I not really need to worry if tuning for 98 but doing daily driving on 95? Know it's not ideal but if I just tune for 95 only he's talking 15-18kw less at the flywheel between a 95 and a 98 tune. 95 here in NZ is over $2 p/ltr, 98 is another 10 odd cents. If it wasn't my daily I'd just stump up for 98 myself. Car goes in next week for a tune, just need to guide him on what I decide. As said know my situation isn't ideal but would appreciate others thoughts on which way to go. Cheers.

Rather than accessing from underneath you can remove the air filter box to access it from above. I've done it both ways and this way is quick to do and provides much better access. Hope this helps!

Looks good! Reckon part of the hassle of the tuning is the very basic instructions that come with the unit and also what they have on their website. Once you figure it out it is straight forward, took a while with trial and error but once you learn how to tune it the sound quality greatly improves. Got my aftermarket sub amp in place now too, sounds so much better.

New pump in and the issue is now all sorted. Quick and easy to do with that thread link above - cheers for that it was really helpful. I was a bit slow but still managed it in under 20 mins including cleaning up afterwards.

Thanks for the link, those instructions make it a straight forward fix. Will get a new pump tomorrow then.

Thanks for that, will give that a try. Cheers.

Hi, Hoping someone can help with this one... the window washer has stopped working in my FG falcon. The wipers still work, I can't seem to hear the washer motor at all. I've checked the fuse and that is fine - didn't really think it was that as the wipers are on the same fuse and they go. Plenty of water in the resoir. Any ideas of what to check next? Or is this one for the auto electrician to sort? Cheers for your help.

Decided to buy one of the Audio Control LC7i units, have installed it and it’s a great product. Yes I would have preferred a true signal processor such as a Rockford 3sixty or Audison bit 10 etc but my budget doesn't stretch that far but that said I'm wrapped with what this unit has done to the sound quality. Bought my unit off Amazon for US$134 and with minimal freight it was relatively cheap so a good option where you want heaps better sound than regular LOCs. Previously I just had some Jaycar line out converters, these fed into a Pioneer GM-8604 (100wrms x4) which fed Alpine Type R components in the front and Type R coaxial in the rear. The factory 8" sub has been replaced with an 8" Kenwood shallow mount. All doors and the parcel tray have been sound deadened. Anyway one of my key aims was to get more volume from my door speakers and tweeters, I'd bought the speakers and amp and had always felt they didn't go anywhere near as loud as what I'd hoped for. During my research one key attraction to the LC7i is that the output voltage is substantially improved over what comes out of regular line out converters, so this means there's a really clean grunty signal to feed into an amp(s), end result my amp gains are turned right down to just about the minimum (so great for minimising the risk of distorted noise and hissing coming through), the system is now loud and crystal clear. The accubass feature on these units is a big improvement over stock line converters, I'd soundproofed my doors a while back and while midbass improved it still wasn't what I'd hoped for - but the LC7i has sorted the bass roll off that is a problem with the stock ICC, there is now good solid midbass present. At this stage I haven't got my sub going through the LC7i but plan to - out of curiosity today I disconnected my rear door speakers from my amp and then run a bridged cable to my sub - wow what a massive improvement both in terms of bass and loudness and the vibration through the back of the seat was a lot more, I was surprised at the performance of that sub when it is driven properly. So guess I'll now be bypassing the factory sub amp and getting a new amp so I can properly utilise the third channel output from the LC7i which is dedicated to a sub and comes with its own remote bass dial to mount up front near the driver. Anyway thought I'd share this in case it is of interest to others.

Just checked the specs, at 100wrms I doubt they'll run without an amp.

Yes physically they'll fit but you'll need to make an MDF spacer to get the clearance distance between the rear of the speaker and the window. Not 100% sure if the stock ICC will have enough power to run them, others might have a better idea on this.

Reversed on my Kenwood, have tried it both ways and runs much better reversed.

I've been thinking about getting an LCQ7i and was just wondering how much of a difference it will make to the sound quality, I'm guessing it should make a big difference but keen to hear about others experiences. Currently running a couple LOCs for my amps and after market speakers. Thanks.