GT-P 390

Nah not his. His reads gotno@trackskill.com.au

Cars going to be rooted or your tyres? ← Just a general comment. ← Jase, what tyres and brake pad are you running? I'm sourcing DS2500 pads for the Brembo's and Toyo 888 tyres to use at the next sprint event. ← Jase, I'm running the Ferodo DS2500 pads on th efront only, stock on rear. They performed real well at the last event but you will need to change them out after as they squeel really bad on the street. I'm using Bridgestne RE55 R specs, 265 rear and 245 front.

Cars going to be rooted or your tyres? ← Just a general comment.

I'm in. Gees my cars going to be ro*ted come December. Track day 18th and 30th of Nov, then 7th of Dec.

I was there sliding round with the rest of them.

This thread is a fantastic example of the aftermarket industry having no idea what they are selling. I've looked into the advantages of different slot designs as I will be upgrading the rotors on the P to cope with its new life on the circuit. This is what I've found or been told. 1. Brembo produce slotted rotors in a number of different combinations but always require the outermost edge of the slot to hit the pad first. This scrapes the gasses/dust out of the caliper zone and lets it exit towards the centre of the wheel instead of glogging the caliper area with dust, which can cause an excessive build up of heat in racing applications. Backing this up is the way the Brembo disks are fitted on the latest FPV range. It is as stated. 2. AP Racing produce rotors with straight and curved slots, both are required to be fitted as per the Brembo direction. 3. I rang DBA as I'm looking to use their 5000 series fronts and they told me they must be fitted as per the Brembo description. I understand this is now in contradiction to what they have told others. 4. A well known brake shop here in Perth who do a lot with the Porsche Cup racers also gave me the same description as the Brembo item. They did say however that the noise associated with running the Brembo setup could be annoying, so alot of shops fitted them round the other way so that the 'wank factor' shopper didn't come back complaining of the noise. He did say that the difference in braking performance on the street would be minimal if not undetectable, however at the track the rotors would suffer, especially if the internal veins were directional as is the case in most 'high performance' rotors. Some of the rotor producers only chasing the street market he said produced a unidirectional vein design and this mean the swapping could be done easily to suit the customer and another positive was the stock level needed to be held by the supplier. Look back at the earlier HSV's with the slotted rotors, they had the same rotor on both sides of the car, on one the slots faced forwards and on the other they faced backwards. This certainly backs up the 'stock level' theory. My 2c, Hope it helps.

I had this fix done a few months ago. Seems to have worked as it hasn't returned.

How much $ ← $1130 landed in WA. It went in today, but I'll let Adrian tell that story. All I can say is I'm glad we did the 5spd before we did my 6spd, because Oh Boy what a difference in weight. We dam sure would have been paying some other sucker to put it in if we knew first. Nearly blew my poopa valve.

I refused a G220 Fairlane from the same dealership when they tried to deliver it damaged. They had no drama's with me refusing the sale, the dealer principle and the salesman were horrified at the condition they tried to deliver it to me in. I was real impressed with the hassle free service that I went back after getting purchasing the substitute statesman to buy my GT-P. It also got severely damaged during the delivery process but it wasn't the dealers fault. It rolled off the transporter at FPV onto its roof. Oops. Hence they made me a new one. Refuse the car and order another one. If they give you any trouble I'm $440/hr.

It looks so pretty...seems a waste to have to cover it up

The difference between the two adjustments is quite pronounced with the V8, can't comment on the 6. The stiffer setting is too responsive for the street. You find the car moving with ever undultion in the road.

Hi Ninka Yeah I thought so too, but they said the IRS/ control blade suspension didn't like a stiff bar. Something to do with the angle of the dangle and how the suspension setup itself didn't have a lot of weight in it to counter the increased force. The theory beats me but I do know that one of the track guys in the east pulled his bar off because he didn't like the way it effected the steering. I might try one one day.

I have the 30mm adjustable on the P and it's great. Whiteline and two other suspension shops warned against upgrading the rear from the 19mm bar to the 22mm. The BA/BF has the tendency to lift the inside tyre whilst cornering and this could lead to a nasty accident if it caught you out in the wet. They said it was best to leave it for the track.

Seems like there are plenty who would like to get involved in more track events but they either dont get enough warning to smooth things over at work or are short of cash at the time etc. What I was proposing we do is get some numbers together and form a circuit 'club' of sorts, the members pay a membership fee and we pre book a number of events over the duration of the year at Barbegallo, AHG and the Motorplex. The membership fee would provide the funds to book the track and would mean those people wouldn't have to fork out as much come race day. Space permitting, externals could be allowed to participate but this would be at a premium rate. It would also make it more worthwhile for those who wish to modify their car in a particular fashion I.e. track or drag as they would have a prescribed number of events they could look forward to over the year. It could always be run like the Dutton Rally, with points being awarded at individual events and the totalled at the Christmas Windup for the prize of SMOTY. If it were popular enough we may even be able to get some local suppliers to sponsor some annual prizes.

Not me is seems. I just get DENIED!!

I've always been told to take it easy for 300-500km. Just drive it normally, and by normal I mean the average driver, not the XR6TURBO.COM hoon you are. Once the surfaces have 'mated' you should be able to feel it, bit llike new disks and pads. One day they're crap and the next they're lovely.

Simon, I'd be keen to support the event but like everyone else weekdays are a drama with work. Side issue - can one of the mods start a new thread in here to guage interest about a proper organised calendar schedule for track events. I reckon if we started a club, registered it with the WA sporting car club and ANDRA we could book some days in advance. A membership would be required but it would make organising these things much more effective..do you agree?

Should invite the LS1 cruise to fininsh at Steve's place for a 'real' BBQ.

Ford have a fix for this in their workshop manual. Has to do with the pinion angle when under load. Variants of 1degree are said to be enough to cause the vibration. Shims are produced to align the problem. Adrian its in your manual under Section 205-01 Driveshaft. We could check it out ourselves if we had the required inclinometer.

It's an old bloke. Lives on Silversmith Street. Don't know him.

My point was aimed at minimising the losses from airflow that is not directly required. ie Increasing the efficiency of the peltiers used. The air flowing over the intercooler like you said provides a medium to take away excess heat. If you have peltiers this is no longer required as you can effectively freeze the IC if you had enough capacity, therefore the airflow is of no use...only a hinderence in adding a warmer charge to the IC than could otherwise be achieved. You clould however run into dramas using a IC as at idle you may be able to overcool the air inside the IC resulting in reaching the dew point and freezing over the internal core. Definately an interesting concept though...as would be liquid CO2 cooling sleeves..similar to those that plumbers use to freeze waterpipes before working on them. <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I've not noticed it on any street car I have owned, but use to have it happen with a set of Micky T slicks I ran on my drag car. Turned out the tyres were too large for the rim (I.e no tension). New slickes and problem solved. I would get it checked out...can't say I'd feel too comfortable driving it round if this is the case. Do you lose air?

I like originality...looks good. Polished rims look nice...they just break your balls keeping them clean.

Personally...if I were to use peltiers as a means of cooling I would be removing the intercooler from the front of the car and relocating it out of any direct airflow...encasing the unit in an insulated case or somthing similar. This would aid in reducing the thermal losses due to the large amount of unwanted air passing over the intercooler and warming it up. The increased efficiency by removing the external heating souorce(wind) would mean that you could lower the required voltage...making their use a more viable proposition.