ColinT

I have a similar problem but I think it just takes a long time to cool the ducting down to ambient after the ahs been parked. I definetly has a problem with the Statesman I owned before my T and that was due to it being 10yo and a hole in the water supply valve to the heater unit. I always maintained antirust in the system and was surprised that the hole had developed. I guess this is not the case for your car being so new. Or could it be possible that the heater valve control arm is being restricted and not closing fully.

Batteries are only replaced under warranty in the first 12 months.

Nice car of course what else could anyone say? Now I can see why some of the guys on the forum go through tyres so quickly. Are those your burn outs? LOL

Just to be safe when the car was only a few months old I parked at the very back of the Fountain Gate car park. This is what I found when I came out. Lucky I had the camera with me. Oh mine it the one in the middle. If you look close there is another XR in the roundabout.

As my XRT was due for release in March I made a visit to the local dealer to see what the 6 speed auto box was like. He didn't have a XRT in stock. So on his insistance he gave me the loan of a Ghia for the weekend. This was brand new with 90klms on the clock. After a trip to Melbourne and around town I returned the Ghia with 699klms on the clock. My thoughts on the car compared to my XRT are as follows. My son complained that his hair was rubbing the roof lining when he was in the back. The seats in the back are 50mm higher in the Ghia than my T. The 6 speed box changed smoothly and of course more often than the T. Fuel economy on the same trip was 8.3 in the Ghia and 9.2 in my T. The brakes in the Ghia worked but were nowhere near as good as my PBR's. Engine power was as I expected not as quick as the T. And after my recent trip to Newcastle from Vic I'm glad I had the pickup of the T in some of the places I had to pass. I have been considering a choice of 3 cars for next March, the Ghia, XR6 Turbo again, or a F6 Typhoon. I like the creature cumforts of the Ghia so after the newcastle trip its now between the XR6T fully optioned or the F6. Anyone care to comment on my final 2 choices, which would be better or which would be cheaper?

Firstly why is the car loosing coolant. I have only ever topped up my old Statesman after 12 year of service. Regular changes of coolant and it never ran low until very late in life. Same with my T, I have never had to top up. Top up with the same as in the system, A higher concentrate % is better than not enough. A wrong mix of coolant types I was told can turn to a jelly.

45,000klm replaced the radiator under warranty. I hope this one lasts longer.

As mentioned the tyres are the problem. Performace grooved tyres are noisey. Tyres withan outer block tread are quieter, ask the ytre dealers. I had my BA underbody sprayed with a bitumous sound deadner, only problem is that due to the plastic inner gaurd liners I was told it was pointless applying it to them as it would fall off due to the flex. So I then removed the boot carpet and install 2mm bitumous addheasive sheets (cheaper than dynamat) over the wheel arches and the rear parcel shelf. I do believe this has reduced the noise, but I am still waiting to wear out the original tyres to buy a quieter set.

Isn't the only real exterior difference the fact that it doesn't come with a larger spoiler. I think they would improve the look with an optional F6 or even GT spoiler. Otherwise a damn nice car.

I'm one of the 400,000 Murcury Silver owners out there. I do like the Ego now though. I was told by the dealer yesterday that Murcury Silver was no longer available, and when you go to the Ford site there is no Murcury Silver available.

At the time I bought my T, 3 years ago I considered purchasing a Fairmaon Ghia. This was just before the luxury pack came out in April 2004. I looked at the depreciation figures then and they still come out the same. I know we all know the Ghia would depreciate quicker but here are figures from Red Book. XR6T New $46125, now Private sale $26700, still worth 57.9% of new price. Ghia New $51255, now private cale $23400, still worth 45.7% of new price. The reason I looked again at these figures is that Im in the market again and considered the Ghia against an XR6T as the two have the same starting price now. But again the depreciation will turn me off the Ghia if past figures are to go by. The XR6T with luxury pack is also the other option but that makes it quite a bit more than the Ghia. Decissions, Decissions??????

Mine was $302 and I didn't supply anything. I checked that everthing was done also.

The valves I know are different to the standard 4.0lt engine with Inconel high temp exhaust valves fitted standard to the T. I made enquiries a couple of months ago but was told LPG was not available for the Turbo engines. Nice to see it must be avaliable now. Looked on the APS site but there is no info and they are closed till the 19th Jan. Is there anyone else?

Im in Vic country and we have stage 2 restrictions. Can wash a car with bucket or pressure cleaner. I agree and I think it has been proven that bucket rinsing uses more water. So I wet the car over with the pressure cleaner on a low setting, wash it with a bucket and rinse as I go with the pressure cleaner. I'm just not allowed to rinse with the hose???????stupid. If we get to the point of NO washing of cars I have a large reserve water supply, my above ground pool, 36,000lts. The family has agreed that this is the last year for the pool as it gets little use now (14years old). So I will leave it sit until all the chlorine has gone, get it tested by the chemist at work then use it on the car garden whenever I want to.

I must admit when I bought the car it was the greatest thing ever, and I guess emotions at the time made me pay the extra for the Ford car alarm. I now think perhaps the it could have been money saved. As is mentioned in the poll "I don't care as I have insurance". This is now how I think. Where I live it's privately garaged, and at work it's in an fenced camera monitored parking area. I guess my thoughts on the alarm was for those times I'm away etc.

Travelling into Melbourne towing a 10x6 furnature moving van at about 100klm/hr on the freeway behing two semi's. I see the 2nd semi touch it brakes then I see comming from under the semi a full length and width of recap rubber. Can't get out of my lane due to traffic. Lift the foot off and wait to hit it. There was a lot of rubber on the freeway I guess because of the hot weather lately. After hitting it and bangs and thumps from the front too the rear of the car I travelled onto my destination. When I pulled over I feared the worst. The front rh corner of the bar had come out where it attaches to the gaurd, was able to spring that back into the slots. Lots of black rubber marks on the front bar and the rh side skirt. Picked up the load and headed home. At home out with the polish and all the rubber marks came off. Very small dent on the front bar leading edge. BUT looking at the rh fog light it had been pushed back but not smashed and still works. Booked in to have the mount replaced after christmas. Looking under the car there was a rubber plug knocked out and more rubber marks on the rear bar that also polished off. In a way I guess I was lucky with only minimal damage.

I agree totally. The price for the general service items and other parts seams resonable. BUT the labour cost are through the roof. As it was said that equates to about 6 hours labour. Do Qld mechanics work slower than others.

Starting to get a bit of squeal from my PBR's recently when light braking. I know guys the answer is to drive the brakes harder. But my question is, I have heard that if you rough the pad up that will fix the problem. Is this true? I would imagine it to be a temporary solution.

Breakdown of my $45,000 service yesterday Labour $166.80 Oil filter $9.44 Air Filter $24.99 Washer $1.10 Eng oil $52.50 Enviro $2.75 Supplies $7.25 Rotate and Bal tyres $10.00 New radiator $warranty New Oil filler cap $warranty GST $27.48 Full Total $302.30 Never new I had a leak in the radiator they picked that up during the service, and also the filler cap was cracked. Quite happy with the service and price.

The warranty on brakes is 50k. I have been through all this before. Its actually in the warranty vehicle info book.

I just used a couple of long cable ties under the front seat onto the seat rail. I didn't like the idea of cutting the carpet and the look of those plastic screwa.

Just went through the showrooms Monday and the dealer had a BF1 and BF2. He said there were no differences but I did notice the BF2 came with 19" wheels standard, the BF1 they had 18". I actually went in to test the price on the BF1 they had with the reduced price sticker. I has a casual look last Friday, went in Monday to find it had been sold to someone in NT, lucky guy. It was sold for $61,000 on road, I thought was a bit rich. It did have leather, metallic paint, tint, paint and fabric prot and bonnet prot. SO then we went through the price of a std BF2 sitting in the showroom. It came out to be $61, 250 on the road.

Another place I found was behind the rear bumper on all the seams you can't see normally. I found this when I removed the bumper to fit the reverse park sensors. This time I took the pics then showed the dealer and they did the reair without any problems.

There is quite a lot of discussions on oil changes here. I think it's generally agrees that every 15,000klm is too long. I think quite a lot of people change every 7,500klm and I know there are those that change every 5,000klm. It's definetly the owners choice but I'm happy with every 7,500klm. As it has also been stated here it's cheap insurance to change more frequently.

A mate just had his XR8 engine replaced under warranty as it was going through more than 1lt between services every 10,000 klm. Personally my T never used oil to warrant topping up between services at 15,000 klm. Never needs oil top ups now as I changed to 7,500 klm oil changes.