69FPV

that would make sense but I am pretty sure I put the hand brake right down. Why would it be rubbing? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> They get stuck all the time even when released very very common <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Oh ok, so how do get ride of this? I can't imagine it is good for it. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> It is also common that the rotors warp slightly (to say the standard ford brakes are sh*t, would be being very kind!), so as the rotor turns and passes through the caliper it will slightly touch, hence the brushing sound you here... I have had this also, it comes an goes. Can be annoying when driving slowly beside another car as you get the reverb... No biggy! Cheers

Im with you on that one!!!!!

I have been through 1 set of Hancook 245x40x19 and 1 set of Fedrals 245x35x19 in UNDER 20000kms!!!!!!! I dont even get time to rotate them!! they seem to scrub out on the front just as quick as they do on the back, CRAP

Best person to talk to is steve at redcliffe dyno and perfromance he is the imposter for procharger and knows these cars inside out and is only down the road abit from you. Ian <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Agreed, give Steve a call!

STEVE @ REDCLIFFE DYNO!!!! I've had 4 turbo cars all of which were played with by different tuners and Redcliffe dyno was by far the best!!!! Personal preference... p.s. stay away from APC!!! Cheers!

I have a T5 and ran 12.86 @ 114 street trim. Have had the same power (286kw) for around 12months now and have a Mal woods clutch. Still holding up with no problems yet but I do treat it failly good I think... If it breaks, bring on the T56! Im told that the utes break the T5's allot quicker then the sedans through axel tramp. Cheers

Mate, you dont want to tell people to replace the orders onto Kruegger and get their orders lost! JEEZ! You want to put them onto MAINFREIGHT!!! HA! Good Luck!

I have simlier ones to the ones on the left currently (Koya) in 19in's and I think that they look too small! I would personally now go for the ones on the right! look heaps bigger! Cheers!

Yep I gotta see this!!! I'll make sure I dont get beside you at the tree!!! I would like a 12.6-12.8... But hell that's still gonna be slow in comparison!! Cheers Luke.

Just us a hotmail/yahoo email account... I swear I have been through no less then 20 of em'! Cheers Luke.

Standard R33 GTs-t will kill an xr6 turbo hands down <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I disagree. A standard R33 GTS-T puts out 187kw @ 6400 rpm. It weighs a healthy 1390kg which works to its advantage. However it only runs 0-100 in 6.96 seconds. 1/4 miles are 14.3 seconds. A standard T properly driven will kick it 0-100 by over a second, or another way you could put it is that a standard T is 17.7% FASTER than an R33 GTS-T over 0-100. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Yeah, I have seen R33 gts-t strugle to do mid 14's, the only skyline worth having IMO is a GTR. Dazza. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Yep bang on there Mickg and Dazza! Having owned both, the T is a quicker car and the only Jap import I would even remotely consider owning now would be the vspecII 34 GTR!! (however strangely enough I dont have a lazy $100 000+ lying around...) Cheers Luke.

hmmmm..... might be keen actually....

Fair enough. I googled it yesterday as I didn't really know what a stock R34 GTR could do. The two pages I looked at listed a high 13 and a 14 flat. )And we've seen stock Ts pull these times.) I actually thought they were quicker than that... But that's the info I went with. My bad. I had another, longer look just now, and I've found figures from low 13s to low 14s for stock R34 GTRs. All the info I found were Vspec1s I think. I understand the 2nd series was a bit quicker. Did Nissan make a 1/4 statement for the 34 GTR? If so, what's the factory claimed time? Your 32 GTR had no boost increase? Just exhaust and pod filter(s)? And ran a flat 13? I don't believe it <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Well believe it my friend STOCK BOOST!!! and only mods were pods and full exhaust!! As Ezy10z mentioned.. stock motor mag states they were cutting super low 13's! It doesnt take much to shave a few tenths of a second in one of those!

Sorry you say a stock 34 GTR runs a flat 14??? I think not!! the 34 GTR Vspec II is the quickest of them all in stock form! It will run 12.90's all day long! If you can hold a GTR 34 in full flight in a stock T, then 1. I wouldnt beleive it, or 2. the planets are all lining up! I had a 32 GTR stock with an exhaust, pod filters and a 33 GTS-t with bigger turbo, ic, Apexi computer and all the nip sh*t. Both manuals, the GTR did 13.00 bt and the GTS did 11.9 bt! Cheers Luke.

I have had this problem ever since I got my xede. Frustrating as HELL to say the least, so last weekend I pulled off the clamps and pipes to/from the intercooler and turbo etc, then put them all back on extra tight. I also, noticed that there is a squeeze together clip behind the drivers head light! So I replaced this with a proper screw clamp as it was VERY loose. PROBLEM FIXED !! Haven’t had a stall or ruff idle since! I also pulled off the throttle body and gave it a good clean up. Recommend that you have a look at that clamp on the intercooler piping behind the headlight, as it definitely will not take much for that to leak…. Cheers Luke.

Jeez! These diffs are suppose to be good for some serious numbers! WHat do you think you've got at the wheels now? I'd be pushin for the warantee job!! Cheers Luke

Never had a bonnet, but had a full bodykit in fibreglass and stones ripped it to sh*t, 2 guys at work have lancers with fibreglass evo bonnets bit are f*cked from stone chunks and you can see paint fractures all around the chunks. By the way how long has your bonnet been there and what type of driving do you do?? Dazza. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> that's why the person that makes it uses a special resin to prevent that. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Mate, Any idea on pricing or time frame? Im keen to get one!! Bored again with my current look! Cheers Luke.

Mine is near the brake booster where I have seen others do theirs. Shouldn't make a difference really. I will send it back and get a 15psi one, just hope I don't have to pull all the wires out and somehow patch up my vacuum line while I wait for the 15 one. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> The most accurate place to plumb it is in the tube that comes out of the end of the bov. its hard to get to and when running a little jumpy, but it gives the most accurate reading, been proven by calibrating it on the dyno. Where you plumb it can actually make a difference of 3+ psi I would personally get the 20psi one, cuz mine spikes at around 15+ psi... depends on the mods you plan on having done though.... Cheers Luke.

I have the phase 2 kit with around 285rwkw, and I noticed the other day oil coming out from around the hoses on the intercooler piping... I know this is blow by and not overly concerning, but just wondering if anyone else is noticing this on their mod'd T's??? I currently have Mobil full synthetic in it which is 5 - 35 and I think it is too lighter oil for turbo cars, so this may be attributing to the problem...

Me too!

I have a Walbro 500hp pump. It is a replacment pump, and the best part is it requires only very minimal modification. Its quite also... I got mine from ebay for $179 incl. freight. Cheers Luke.

Mine too! I actually post a thread about the same thing about a week ago... Frustrated as HELL!!! Taking mine back to FOrd very soon to try and get it fixed.... Cheers Luke

I have driven both and now have the manual! Auto's are good in traffic and getting out of the hole, but the manual is soooooooooooo much more fun!! I would go the manual any day of the week! But hey to each the own man! Cheers

Good call! In a manual, the more grip the better! And Wednesday is good for me! Cheers Luke

Great, so it looks like im stuck with the dody idle .... I will get the xede retuned and the software upgraded to the latest version and see how she goes... If anyone else has any thoughs on a quick fix, please let me know! Cheers Luke