--Jase--

Yeah mate.. that's me.. Its manual.. stock power. just has Whiteline bars and Teins.. Even set full hard they are to soft for good control.. And my sway bar balance needs playing with.. First run I did. Heding into turn 2. flicked it in with a quick kick to initiate (lick you do with any car) and it spun instantly.. Like WOW instantly.. I battled on for about 5 laps and then gave up.. I'll stick to drifting Jap cars.. I could drift my soarer in my sleep its that easy to steer..

I had a go at the track in mine the other week. Was freaking horrible.. And I have teins and sway bars.. Every weight transfer it just wanted to loop..

I just removed the bracket.. I run 19x10.5 +15 rear wheel + a 25mm spacer. Stock unrolled guards..

I'm so paraniod about reving my car aswell.. All these failed pump gear stories has me stressed out.. I have gears sitting here on the shelf, but never enough spare time to fit them. Can't wait till there in and the new turbo/tune is done so I can give it a hard time.

No. same turbo..

Those 3 factors determine the holding capacity of the clutch.. No where so far has it described how the manufacturer arives at a given hp or torque rating for a clutch..

I have an extra long weekend this weekend and want to finally fit my pump gears.. I just want to know what I'll need in the way of consumables. Gaskets seals ect. befor I get started and end up with a car torn to pieces and no shops open to get the bits I need to finish.. Cheers.

Thanks Scatterbrain... Any indication of what size increase equals what pressure gain.?

Yeah that make sence.. Pity.. Think I'd have far more chance of getting territory ones for the wreckers than FG ones..

Yeah I wasn't overly confident I'd get the answers I was looking for.. Might just have to suck it and see for my self.. But like I said earlier.. If any one has access to some FG uprights I'd like to buy some .. Also along that same train of thought, is a late model Territory upright the same as the fg.?

This is a car I set up for a friend. Has over 50* steering angle. As you can see from the picture almost perfectly flat contact patch on both tires. And is amazing to drive so I'm told.. Vastly improved over the old setup.. .

While I admit I haven't sat there and had a super hard long look at it.. I am more than familiar with what it takes to get a rear mounted steering rack to work extremely well.. But back to my original questions.. Has any one tried using rack spacers. ?? And what was the ooutcome. And how do I adjust the steering assist.?

Cast alloy, cast iron, timber.. It doesn't matter what they're made from.. They can still be modified..

I would like to modify the knuckles also.. But I figured that was a little bit beyond this forum.. Not sure if 90% of the ppl here would understand rack spacers let alone modified steering knukles. But if some one has access to some uprights for a resonable amount I'd be happy to buy them.. Knuckle mods are buy far the best for steering feel and senistivity.

SO my questions are.. Firstly and most importantly. I want/need more travel form my steering rack.. Usually this is achieved by adding a spacer between the rack end and the rack that allows the rack to travel farther befor hitting the rack end that limits it's travel. Has any one experimented with spacers and if so. How much extra travel is available befor running into rack seal issues.. Second question.. Can I adjust the level of power steering assist..? I want it to be a little lighter.. Not much of a fan of the falcon steering.. its weighted and vauge.. Jase.

Why would you want to return it to stock.?? And that housing is completely wrong.. not only is it the wrong AR. It also only t2 flange, so It wouldn't even bolt on.

My local guys are East Coast Customs.. Their argument was that the 1000's are easier to tune, so save you cash on tuning time. And they are more stable/accurate at very low pusle widths saving you cash on fuel.. Use less fuel while at low load.. Which is a good deal of the time while cruising around. So spending a few bucks extra on the better injector pays for itself very quickly.

I was told to stay well away from the Siemens injectors by local tuner. He said they are terrible.. Recomended Herrod 100lbs or bosch/id1000's.. Way better off spending the extra to get the better injectors..

Mine does it too..

Or paint it with alloy coloured engine paint.. http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_articles/id/2761/wrench-tips-31-cast-aluminum-in-a-can.aspx I tried this stuff for the first time on a mates engine I just finished building.. Its awesome stuff.. Fitted brand new cast parts to the painted block and the colour is almost exactly the same.. Wish I'd know about this stuff years ago.

My does drone hardly at all.. But mine is a ute so might have a bit to do with it..

I did mine today also.. cut off stock muffler.. straight twin 2.5 inch pipes with 3.5 inch tips.. Thought it was kinda load but had a mate drive it up the street and its not load at all.. Pretty happy with the result really.

I fitted a mates 12 -9 to the completely stock side of my car.. which is 25mm from wheel lip to face of arch.. the other side is 38mm but I've trimmed the lip about on that side. It measured just on 20mm of poke.. So buy the time I trimmed and rolled the lips it would be very close to fitting..

I took the guard breaces out because every one says its a massive PITA to roll the lips with them in..Didn't get to rolling them as it started to rain so I threw the wheels on to move it into the garage when I noticed they fit terrible..