Jump to content

ello678

Member
  • Posts

    38
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by ello678

  1. Yeah I feel your pain. Mine were sent to heasemans for testing with "no issues" found. It was only after I took my car to them they identified the noise and replaced the shock bolt. Noise came back and I was at my wits end with the problem. I even contacted the ACCC for advice and they said its up to the store you purchased them from to provide a warranty or refund. I was about to do that but gave heasemans one more chance and luckily they replaced it with a brand new shock. If I were you I would say that you know that they have replaced shocks in the past and you want yours replaced. Good luck!
  2. You can try the new bolt. Initially it made the noise a bit quieter for me, but it eventually came back just as loud. If youre in Sydney take it to Heasemans as they are the Aus dealer for bilstein and ask them to test fit a brand new shock and if the noise disappears tell them to leave it in there. Otherwise take it back to the place you bought it from and ask for a replacement.
  3. Dont know if anyone else is still having this issue but the noise started to get worse again over the past 2 months. I took it back to heasemans and after 3 days of trial and error they replaced the left rear bilstein with a brand new item and sure enough the noise is gone! Its only taken 3 years on and off of me complaining. Must of just got a dud shock.
  4. Me too! Got a mate coming with his G6E Turbo and another mate with a soarer drift car. Can't wait...
  5. Yeah 322mm is standard for fg xr6 turbo, 298mm is for all other lower spec falcons I'm dyslexic and cannot turn off simple functions in tapatalk
  6. Awesome stuff. Im heading out to wakefield on the 22nd too with my slightly modified XR6T (nothing close to yours) Also got a mate bringing his stock G6E Turbo. Looking forward to it, should be a great day. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
  7. I was dealing with Paul, he was helpful. I'm not sure sure about which side, I think it was both but I could be wrong. Let me know how you guys go
  8. Yeah its going good, I still have heard it a few times, but when I do its not as loud or as consistent, just a quick knock and that's it. Anything above a 6 volume and you'd have to be listening very carefully to notice.
  9. Well to be honest, it cost nothing as I let them know about the issue before the warranty was up, that was actually the third time ive been to the workshop. Even if yours is out of warranty I cant imagine them charging much for some bolt sleeves. Its a weird one because even though the problem wasn't directly caused by the bilsteins, the noise only happened with the bilsteins on the car.
  10. Ok just picked up the car, drove it home and it was near perfect! Sooo much better than before, im happy with the result, hopefully the noise wont come back. Apparently what they did was install a sleeve to increase the lower bolt shank diameter from 12.5mm to 13.8mm (thread diameter stays the same obviously) and it sounds like it has worked. It still doesnt explain why it didnt knock with the oem shocks. But anyway I would say to any1 with this problem to either try a sleeve or get a custom bolt made up, it should fix the problem.
  11. I've been in conversation with Sydney Shocks and they've been pretty helpful, they have just made up a 13.8mm bolt for the 14mm lower shock mount hole. So it seems that they think the problem is the lower bolt as opposed to the top. Once I have the bolts installed I'll report back.
  12. Channel 7 keep bragging about they have 180 cameras but they cant get a decent shot of the Scott Pye crash down conrod straight.
  13. ello678

    Kurt's Xr6T

    Good result, did u just use the stock cat with the restrictor ring removed?
  14. Yeah knocks are bloody hard to find. I even replaced my sway bar links before I knew it was the bilsteins. I can lend you my standard shocks if you're in Sydney, I'd like them back just in case the knocking comes back though!
  15. I didn't sorry. But I did manage to find a sh*tty quality pic on the net. The red dots I've marked are where the small indentations were (the inner flange). I removed the indentations in those spots only, by grinding them down a few mm I.e. I didn't grind down the whole inner flange. I suppose you could ground down that whole inner flange a few mm and it would have the same effect. Obviously if you didn't have these indentations in the first place then your problem lies somewhere else. The other thing I didn't mention before was, in my case the knocking was worse on the passenger side. So when I went to put the bilsteins back I swapped them around. I.e left shock on the right. I doubt that would have had an effect, but its worth a shot if the knocking noise is worse on one side.
  16. Yeh that's right, when ford weld the nut to the metal plate it deforms the other side as the plate is only a few mm thick. Its a bit tricky to get access to that spot so it's easier to just grind down the shock mount a few mm.
  17. Ok just an update, sorry for the long post, I should have taken some pics, so I'll explain what I did. I took the bilsteins to Pat and he took them away to get tested on a shock dyno but he came back and said the shocks were fine. This left me a bit confused, however he did mention it could be something to do with three abnormal grooves in the top shock mount. So when I went to put the bilsteins back in I noticed three small bumps on the inside of the shock bracket (on the car). These three bumps are cause when ford weld the nut to the bracket, this causes the metal bracket to deform slightly. Now because the stock shock mount is thinner than the bilsteins there is no issue. But the bilsteins are slightly wider so you really have to force them in the bracket (I even had to loosen the bracket a bit), and when you tighten the shock bolt it crushes the bracket onto the shock mount and makes three small grooves, so now the shock mount is interlocking with the shock bracket. So my theory is, when you drive along and hit these small consecutive bumps, the shock moves up and down ever so slightly, which forces the shock mount in and out of the groove causing this knocking noise. So before I put the bilsteins back on the car, using a small grinder, I ground the shock mount down a few mm where the three grooves were, put it back in with a little bit of grease, and the noise was gone. So if you have the same problem as I did, and you've recently fitted bilsteins, pull them out and look for three small grooves on the top shock mount and grind them out!
  18. Fronts do 70% of the works so I wouldnt bother with the back. Fluid is pretty cheap, I got some good Castrol 4.1 from Repco for about $7 bucks a bottle (u need 2 bottles) and I couldnt be bothered doing the fluid change myself so I got jax to do it for $45 I think
  19. I did a track day in my FG XR6T at Wakefield last year with stock brakes. Freezing cold day so the engine and auto were fine, but after 3 hard laps at the end of the main straight the brake pedal went to the floor, luckily theres a lot of run off and no damage was done. From my understanding pad and rotor fade is gradual but this was instant loss of brakes due to the fluid boiling. So I would say at a minimum do high temp brake fluid, dot 4.1 I think is better for our cars than 5.1. Then if your budget allows do pads and then DBA T3s.
  20. Ok, so ive just taken the bilsteins out to measure the hole diameter and they are about 0.1mm smaller than stock. So I was thinking it surely cant be the bilsteins but I wanted to be sure. So ive just chucked the stock shocks back in and sure enough, quiet as a mouse! I took it for a half hour drive along the normal route when it used to knock like crazy and the stock shocks were fine. It must be something internal in the bilsteins. I got them from Wholesale and Pat is a good guys so im hoping he can help me out when I give him a call on Monday.
  21. Interesting...that is the opposite of what I thought it would be. I was planning on doing the same thing this weekend, if I get time ill measure the left side shock as that is the one making most of the noise. Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
  22. Thanks for the advice mate, I think your right. After reading your post I greased the sh*t out the top and bottom shock bolts and its gotten better, not perfect but definitely better. Id say between 40 & 60km/hr its about 80% better and below 40km/hr its probably 50% better. I might have to re grease once or twice a yr unless there is a better solution (maybe putting a small sleeve through the shock mount to reduce the clearance). but anyway im happy for now, thanks again!Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
  23. Unfortunately theres been no progress, I drove to the hunter last week and it was fine as I spent most of the time above 60, its just annoying whenever I enter a car park and I can still hear the knock. I might take it to pedders in the next few weeks and if they find anything ill let u know Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
  24. Yeh I had a quick look at the d bushes but ill give them a proper check, cheers. Sent from my GT-I9300T using Tapatalk
  25. Hey guys, I know similar issues have been covered before, but I've done my research and tried a few solutions which have been mentioned but it doesn't seem to be fixing the problem I have. I've got Mk2 turbo with 22k on the clock and I've had bilsteins/kings on for about 9 months. But recently I'm getting a knocking/rattling noise (I think some guys on here have described it as a bobbeling noise) coming from the passenger side rear. It only happens below about 60km/hr and over consecutive very small bumps/undulations in the road, big bumps like speed humps there's no noise. Its a faint sound but its slowly getting louder. At first it sounded like its coming from the parcel shelf or the boot, but I've tried removing the spare wheel and making sure the vent near the tail light is not loose however this didn't fix the problem. Then I thought it might be the sway bar links so I replaced them with the ball type ones from Pat but this didn't work, I then tried tightening the shock bolts, and they were already tight so that didn't work either. Has anyone got any more ideas? I can't imagine any bushes being at fault as its only done 22k. The only thing I can think of is something to do with the spring or spring seats? Any help appreciated.
×
  • Create New...
'