bionic_oosty

Yeah no worries mate you're totally right there, I figured today I'd just take it to Ford and get the scan tool onto it. But it turned out that the place who fitted the cat and dump were happy to scan it for me today for free. And the error is a wastegate code! Rang up the tune shop and they said it has to be an issue with the bigger actuator they fitted for the tune.. Booked in for monday morning for them to take a look.. PROGRESS!! So the reason the emissions light is coming up is because the faulty wastegate is dumping all the wrong pollutants down into the cat (is what the exhaust shop said) OH the guys at exhaust shop first reaction was "how long has that turbo been on there?" as they are positive it is not the standard turbo and is bigger than factory... If it was an Typhoon turbo, it would be labelled FPV wouldn't it??? I bought car off original owner and she was a stocker

Correct , It's a manual. The clutch was replaced with a heavy duty one barely 7 days ago and it isn't slipping.. Boost is 14psi, drops off to 12psi What do you mean by 200cpi cat won't log a code?? The more random google searches I read on collapsed cat, the more I think it could be the problem...But why the violent shuddering for about 8 seconds after the initial loss of power and stutter - It's like a drive train feeling. But could be the computer having a spaz out before sorting itself out

I'm just worried because the tune was done with the clutch slipping badly after only a couple of runs.. I don't know if this can mess with the air and fuel levels in higher gears if they couldn't really use the gears at all on dyno... Possible?? It could be so many things, but of course it's going to jump out at me after I've replaced every other part under the sun in a few months! The tune shop (Just Engine Management - Ingleburn NSW) are a very popular tune shop and very reliable word of mouth

If it's a faulty cat, I will be letting them know before hand I won't be paying a cent for labour or replacement cat.. No way!! I think I'll get them to weld flanges like you say either way.. Bit of a pain not having them and I was suprised to see it was welded when I first got it home. One more question..Where is the 2nd sensor on the exhaust meant to be on the BF? I have one right in the top of cat near turbo but can't see a 2nd at all anywhere lower. Also, I have a spare plug hanging loose down near the the air intake near pod..I don't recall removing this when I fitted my Growler kit... Is that the O2 plug or is this disconnected from sumwhere when they do the tune? Apologies for all the random questions, but trying to cover bases as it could be something real simple that the exhaust shop or tuner have not plugged back in Cheers

Damn dude... It's really not possible to check myself unless I get the exhaust shop to cut the welds and take it off for a look....in which case if it's not the cat, they're gonna sting me hard for labour. Would I need to take it to a dealership for a scan tool and will it throw an exact code exposing the problem, or will it just be vague and give me 5 options of what the issue could be? I don't know the brand of CAT, but I can give them a call tomoz and find out..' Thanks mate

it is an aftermarket dump and cat (3" 200cpi cat). It's only 2 months old probably not even!! Plus the cat has been welded in from memory, not factory bolts either side... I had a feeling it may be the cat because I'm getting different exhaust/intake sounds under load..It sort of changes pitch all the time in higher gears. And the Ford book says the MIL warning light can damage your CAT if run continuously while illuminated

I don't have a flasher. I'm guessing the 'flasher' is the tool that Ford dealerships use? I'm not too keen on taking it to a dealer.. Would the dyno tuner have this tool? Considering the car has just gone down hill since I got it back from them a month ago...

Ok, so I removed all coil packs and plugs, checked them all (even rotated them for sh!ts & giggles) and they all look PERFECT. Got the car back together and really went at this stutter issue by powering around in 5th gear under load and everytime I got to around 3000rpm it cut out and the whole cars shakes. After about the 3rd time I then got a "Malfunction Indicator Lamp" on the dash that has stayed on constantly now!! I read in the book that this means the car is no longer performing at the correct emission levels...??? Does anyone now have an idea what is causing this now that it's throwing a warning light?? Picture below. Cheers, Josh

After doing a fair bit of google searches, I'm thinking (hoping) the problem is coil packs considering the car has 140,00kms and just got tuned... But just to be sure - Would a dodgy coil cause a fierce SHUDDERING after the initial miss while under load in the 4th 5th 6th gears?? I'm preying it's not a fueling issue as I just paid up big money about 4 weeks ago for brand new walbro pump, fuel filter and injectors. It also has a constant miss at idle and even worse so on cold start. Coils????

After doing a fair bit of google searches, I'm thinking (hoping) the problem is coil packs considering the car has 140,00kms and just got tuned... But just to be sure - Would a dodgy coil cause a fierce SHUDDERING after the initial miss while under load in the 4th 5th 6th gears?? I'm preying it's not a fueling issue as I just paid up big money about 4 weeks ago for brand new walbro pump, fuel filter and injectors. It also has a constant miss at idle and even worse so on cold start. Coils????

had exhaust leak at manifold on my r33 gtst and it was a loud ticking...I also do not know the science behind it, but it is a loud annoying ticking that gets worse the more u power up

no worries mate, I put pushed it back in all the way. I'll just start checking things bit by bit and see how it reacts..Hopefully just plugs or the below half tank of fuel thing. Cheers people, appreciate the ideas!!

I had a quick look just checking hoses and lines etc and found this (picture below) It was about half way out when I first touched it...What is this?? I can see oil below it in the hole. Is this meant to be air tight or is it no biggie?? If u don't think it has anything to do with my original problem just disregard this post lol...Just thought I'd check.

These are some good opinions, I never thought of plugs as they are brand new done for the tune! But they did tell me they re-gapped them for the tune...And it does run like a bucket of sh!t at cold start. I also have not had over half a tank of fuel since tune to my knowledge.. Coils to my knowledge are originals.. Boost solenoid & throttle body never cleaned. They put on a new turbo actuator for the tune..Are they commonly faulty or have issues?? Tuners also did fuel pump, bigger injectors, actuator & custom gapped plugs.... Seems like it could be many months b4 I could possibly source the issue

ahhh bugger....Just suprises me because it's at really low rpm levels when just trying to overtake on the highway in 6th from lets say 90-120kms. I agree that it's gotta be valve springs, but from previous reads on the forum I just figured valve springs was after u backed off hard..Not midway thru boosting! Cheers again

Hey all, I have this weird problem my car now has since it's tune.. When in 4th, 5th, 6th gears (only) under load at about 3000rpm, it all of a sudden loses all power like a boost cut feeling and then continues to shudder when u try to just put your foot slightly back on the power to keep driving. This lasts about 5-10 seconds after the original power cut.. I was thinking valve springs MAYBE?? But you can literally flog the thing to 5500 rpm in all other lower gears and it will never do anything wrong...Plus it does not do the shudder after backing off after powering hard..The main problem is the actual complete power loss when your foot is left on the throttle half way into boosting up.. Any ideas or people who have had this issue? Cheers, Josh

Dave - thanks for that info mate, I will do the pumping of clutch with cap off thing like you mentioned! Ralph - I took car back to mechanic and mentioned this and he said the bearing had no way of being altered (I don't know much about clutches, so didn't argue the point).. But the clutch has gotten to about 95% drivability and I think it's all loosened up inside now. goes into every gear well now, I guess it will only improve over the next couple of weeks! Cheers again for quick feedback

Alrite, thanks heaps for that Paulie. I will check that out over the weekend! It seems to have loosened up quite alot though since I picked car up this morning.. All gears (even reverse) work almost perfectly now! But the real test will be on a cold start tomorrow.. Thanks for the info peeps

Ohh now we're talking.. I don't know where this 'lockout solenoid' is, so I'm keen to check it now. Where is it and how do I check if it works?? Thanks

Apparently so.. The mechanic said he bled everything after replacing new gearbox and clutch fluids. Hmm, not adjustable.. No good!

Hey all, I had my new Xtreme HD clutch installed today and it works a treat with no slipping under loads.. BUT - It feels like the friction point with clutch pedal is pretty much at the firewall and as if the clutch is not being engaged 100% because you're already hard up against the floor. The gears (FROM NEUTRAL) are very stubborn and notchy, I have to force gears alot more than feels right. And reverse is cringeworthy with the amount of force required!! It does get alot better when it warms up though. But yeah, I would prefer the friction point of pedal be further out more and my question is - Is this possible?? I know my previous S15 Silvia had a thread adjuster, but I cannot see one in the xr6t Cheers, Josh

vl calais Expensive Daewoo nova vr 5L calais nissan tiida vz ss vr bt1 5L nissan s15 silvia rspec vt berlina 5.7L Nissan r33 gtst currently nissan micra 5sp 55 flywheel kw & bf xr6t 326rwkw lol

OH and also: Most of you have pretty hefty tunes done to your car, but on COLD start ups does your car run rough until it heats up (5 mins)?? Ever since I got mine back from tuners it's been real angry when cold..It starts perfectly, but has alot of missing and carrying on. The tuner did say the plugs the installed had been gapped by them. And considering it only runs bad until it reaches operating temp, I'm thinking its just a plug gap issue??? Cheers, Josh

Just a quick update: I really could not afford an expensive clutch (Mal Wood etc brands), so I have ordered an Xtreme Stage 2 clutch kit ($520) with a brand new slave cylinder also ($180)... The clutch claims 55% more clamping pressure then factory. It's being installed this coming Tuesday, so I will post up how it feels and if it can handle it - Fingers crossed!! So if anyone with 300+rwkw is ever in my situation, you can find out if cheaper is an option.

Car: BF I XR6T Trans: 6 Speed Man Power: 326rwkw (@141,000kms) Boost: 14psi ( with a drop to 12psi) Induction: Growler kit & 50% bigger intercooler Turbo: Stock with better actuator Valve Springs: Stock Exhaust: 4" dump & 3" hi flow cat Fuel system: 60lb injectors & Walbro GSS340 pump Power Adder: JEM Performance She's definately got more in her as the clutch slipped its head off in 4th during dyno runs & the the tuners suspected dodgy 95 octane fuel even though I always use 98 bp ultimate...