dustyae86

was walking in Mordialloc today and a BA ute dosed hard and an old granny walking past me went JESUS!!!

have you tried ducting better, like so the air that has the opportunity to go in that area is forced through rather than blowing out the sides? you would be surprised the difference this can make

10k to me sounds like a pretty good budget. most of the stuff has been covered except the brake side, I personally wouldn't go EBC greens on a road car, you will end up crying in weeks that they are too noisy and so on Good year eagle F1's haven't heard of those for years, but if they are still the same sh*t tread pattern they used to be they get VERY noisy as soon as the get some camber wear on them, if you want a nice sticky tyre, as suggested the nitto invos seem like a good tyre or my suggestion is bridgestone potenza re003 have ran these on another car (well the earlier re002) and they are an amazing tyre

potentially possible, I would probably indicate that it's occurring under power out of corners when you're unweightin the inside front and smashing it all to the opposite end outer, but unfortunately, I'm sort of point towards a strut brace doing sweet f all. cage time for you

I'm sure I could look around but since I'm lazy, any pics of fg's running ssl, to be honest I don't want to go much lower on the front but the rear needs to go down lots

My understanding is rear ends are the same over models, only difference being the diffs themselves? Also airbags would have been deployed because the SRS module would have sensed a decrease in lateral G's so thought it was getting a hit from the side... which it was, just from the gutter

in my opinion it doesn't look terribly bad, the big cost is going to be the airbags, which will probably have to be bought new, new arms etc... then new SRS module since the bags have been deployed. But like has been suggested, if you have space park it up for a bit, buy a little run around so you can work and save up some coin and do it bit by bit That bent mount can probably be bent back, obviously not ideal, but if there was any huge stress on it then the welds would be cracked

is there a common compression reading these cars get in good health mick? I'm curious/paranoid now so maybe I'll do a comp test and leak down test on it and see if I get anything

They're a really really good brake, like has been said we ran them in race cars, so for your road car they will be fine, unsure on pad compounds you can get for them to suit the street though, there is bound to be something, next would be AP if you're looking at spending that sort of coin

pros: sound tough cons: can't run a cat or much in the way of mufflers

No disrespect inteneded to some of the other people on here, but I'm 100% with ratter on this one, when an engine is built the valves are seated to form a SEAL on the head, if like has been stated the valves were bent in the past it would be very noticeable, generally when a valve hits a piston it will generally break a bit off the head of the valve or else bend the shaft not allowing the valve to retract properly and then causing it to break the head off, this wouldn't happen years later, it would happen minutes later. Also regarding cars jumping teeth, it was my car that jumped 2 teeth and sounded absolutely horrible!! but in my opinion also it is exactly what was stated that causes it, sudden jumping off of the throttle, when mine did it, I had just came out of around about and accelerated in second then made alast minute decision to get red rooster and jumped off the throttle quickly at around 4000rpm. so the theory is, that the sudden jump makes the tensioner retract back but it still has quiet a bit of mechanical force on the engine then bam jumped teeth. Is there a fix? I honestly don't think so, just driving style I think, until someone releases a slightly stronger tensioner (which could cause it's own issues) my chain guide didn't really have any big chunks out of it, but it was a case of better safe than sorry. So there is my rant, so in the opinion of 2 qualified mechanics saying it wasn't due to the timing issue it's not looking great sorry to say

We are always told if running cameras that you need to have a cable tie over the case to hold the camera on, I think it's so if it does come out it's not rolling around the floor and getting stuck under pedals etc... but as usual, depends on the scrutineer

Yeh that will be sweet, I'm running a 19x10.5 in +22 and it sits good, +12 is pretty much flush

gimme gimme a prize, I think there is a good chance mick that it chipped off a bit like mine, but the guide actually needs to be removed to check it?

will bet money that it has jumped a tooth or two

NO NO NO!!! did this happen to do it after it saw a bit of boost and you jumped off the throttle? My car is one of the cars that mick is talking about, it jumped 2 teeth on the timing chain and sounded the same, but my phasers were also bottoming out making it sound scary. get it fixed as soon as you can. Expect close to a grand to fix if it's not done any damage.

bend over sweetheart

I'm going to throw my car on the hoist sometime this week and try to suss something out, I very highly doubt it is due to an alignment issue, I have ran cars with much more aggressive camber than my standard car has. So I doubt it is that, toeing out under braking due to the bushes is beleievable though. so maybe a set of bushes might be the go

Mine has done 92,000 in a 2009 FG. BUT my dads ute has done the same thing in the past, and his was a BF with about 40thousand kms or so. So early on in the piece it seems no one knows still? sct911, it's fairly frustrating isn't it, still have plenty of tread on the outers but not so much on the inners

hey guys, was just washing my ute and noticed I have gotten the dreaded inner tyre wear issue these cars are common for. So I'm just wondering has anyone come up with a definite solution to the issue rather than here say? so far I have heard it's the standard lower control arm bushes that cause it, too soft causing flex etc... and others have said it's an alignment issue. Can anyone confirm they have done this or that and it has fixed the problem?

always have put a bit of antiseize on the threads, think, steel going into aluminium and expansion rates, just make sure you don't get any on the electrode.

I think it's hard unless you do a pre apprenticeship course, which sucks if you need to support a family, I really want to do it, but thanks to my dumb mistakes younger (ie debt) I couldn't do it, unless I got on a union job..... anyone?

pulled the rocker cover off today and tried to set up the timing as best as I could, pretty certain it has jumped a tooth, but pitlanbe wouldn't tell me about set up marks. so it's down there now and hopefully get fixed soon. either way Karma must be getting me, things just aren't going right for me at the moment. that's my sob story done

timing chain skipping a tooth is a possibility, but would expect an engine light to come on for that? that was another thought because I have come across a BF that has done that. My other thought was something else has happened on the exhaust side of the turbo, but thought that would generally come across in the shaft still

ok so I got back from targa today and got my ute which has been sitting for a week in the workshop, hopped in drove home etc.. went to the shops, went around a roundabout in second and punched it a little (nothing excessive) pulled into a servo, then my car started making this horrible noise. Instantly thought turbo, because it makes this noise and doesn't make boost then makes boost and once you back off it does the same noise twice shortly after. Got home, pulled the intake off, turbo feels perfect, no shaft play or anything. ran it again and gave it a tiny bit of throttle input (around 1-2%) and it makes the noise again. Sounded like it was comeing from the rocker cover so thought maybe it's dropped a spring, pulled that off, no luck. SO!! it's not bringing the engine light up, plugs are reasonably black so running rich. current thoughts are a lifter has bled down.. other thought is, someone has driven it and flogged it, anyway I took a video and as you can tell it is hunting a lot too and yes it does have oil. anyone have any brilliant ideas? Have also checked ex manifold bolts are tight