Impellor

Adam I'm am referring to the optimum efficiency of the parts that I'm using. My interest at this stage is to try and guage what I can obtain by using the factory hardware. Injectors and pump have been used as factory items are the greatest limitation. Cheers

Looking at Forced Performance and RDP at this stage. Cheers

3 days in total. Goes in for tune next month. I am more interested in running at optimum efficiency. Due to basically running a standard exhaust and intake. I'm not sure what it will make on this round of mods. But optimistically, I am thinking that it should make 281Rwkw's on 10 psi (using a basic algorithm). If things are working in my favour it may make 303rwkw's on 12 psi. But this, I believe is a best outcome scenerio. Its likely that the extra 2 psi will just be enough to push intake temps out of the car setup efficiency range. But here's hoping. A quick run down of mods. Ported and polished, crossover and plenum. Monza 10.260 cm3 intercooler, with aluminum/fibreglass wrap. $200 Rear Muffler removal $150 Walbro 255lph high pressure pump located in 1/3 larger cradle $300 60 lb Deka's. $200 My own CAI, incidently I believe it is vastly superior to anything on the market, fitted with K&N filter $76 Upgraded silicon pipe connectors, and clamps $25 Oil/ Air separator catch can $80 NGK BKR6E .8mm gapped plugs. $25 Cheers

http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/83303-factory-plenum-upgrade-thoughts-and-pics/

Purely theoretical Adam. Based on greater capacity, and an environment conducive to faster smoother flow. Remember when you were a kid roller skating at a rink. Then you went roller skating on the road. Which one did you go faster on (given there both flat). Why?, less friction. Its all about the friction, or lack thereof. These plenum's are sand cast. Rough as guts on the inside with many ridges and dags. But for a factory item there quite good. Cheers

In new thread.

Me to Mick, but as I previously said I thought it would be something simple. I love Her, and now I know, she loves me LOL. But thanks again for your valued assistance. Have a Merry Christmas with Bel and the Family. Cheers

Funny you should say that Jet, I did give it a sand and spray. But anyway Jet, Merry Christmas to you , Fluffy, and the family, stay safe. Cheers

Hello fellow enthusiasts. Being one to always looking to improve upon the factory item where possible, both functionally and visually, I found a plenum on ebay which I managed to get for $36 delivered. The idea was that I would have a look to see if I could improve the flow characteristics, and give it a polish as well. What I noticed firstly, was how poorly the entry area was cast, and how it was smaller than the throttle body opening ( While I had the T/B off I sanded it smooth also, as it had on been machined to just behind the butterfly) . So with die grinder in hand, I spent many hours removing the casting and dags around the inlet opening, whilst opening up the intake path. In the region of 15-20 % larger. I then proceeded to remove the many casting lines within the plenum. Next step was to remove 3mm off the long triangular region that flows straight into the runners. I used a gasket as a template and was able to open and smooth all areas. The most difficult part was sanding inside the tumblers. For this I just used long strips of sand paper (folded) and applied a see- saw action to sand. This took hours, but was well worth. Initially I ran a hose (water) through the tumblers just to get an idea of flow. Once sanded when I through the hose back in the water was flowing out much faster and landing approximately 2 feet further than the non-sanded item. Particular attention was paid to creating a better flow path to cylinders 1 and 6, as these seem to be areas that run lean. This was achieved by grinding a better suited angle on the opening. As I felt that the factory angle was better suited for 2 and 4 at best. After the initially problem of disconnecting my solenoid wire, I started the car. Once up to operating temp I noticed that the car was idling at 700rpm not 750. So one can assume there has been an efficency gain. The external part of the polishing was done to "I dare say it" improve the thermal efficency. As my goal is to get the air into the engine as cool as possible. This was done by using a flapper sanding disc (120 grade) on the angle grinder, then a mouse sander (150 grade) then 400 dry sand, then wet sand, 1200 wet sand. The quality of the plenum material is very good, as I was surprised by the results. This is an excellent project for the first timer, as it will give you a good result for minumal work. My thoughts are that the factory item is well designed, and quite a nice piece in standard form. But I also think that with a little work it can be improved upon greatly. How much better, I'm not really sure. But the general consensous is that its good for 550rwhp. So I think from some quick calculations I should be able to see around 650rwhp, based on increased capacity, and greatly reduced internal turbulence. Unfortunately my pics of the internal work failed, you can't see anything, but here are 2 of the item installed. As you can also see, I have done crossover as well. Again it was ported and smoothed internally. Just a heads up, if you do this its a great opportunity to tighten your inlet runners (on head) up whilst the plenum is off. http://s1191.beta.photobucket.com/user/Impellor/library/Engine%20Bay?view=media#/user/Impellor/library/Engine%20Bay?http%3A//s1191.beta.photobucket.com/user/Impellor/library/Engine%20Bay?&_suid=1356130572967021685840450073612 Cheers

Firstly I would like to thank everyone for there participation, but mostly I wish to thank Luke and Mick as they were as usual 100% on the money. The solenoid connector was the issue. Although it looked on I removed it and when replacing heard a click when going back on. Car started fine runs great. Once again thanks to everyone for sharing their idea's. Cheers

Only unplugged the 2 clips on T/B Mick. Cheers

That may be possible. I will get under it tommorrow and have a looky. My gut feeling is that its something simple. It seems obvious that's its something between starter and battery. Not showing any codes on SCT Cheers

Where is this one located? Cheers

Sorry guys out getting Chritmas presents. Dead as a door nail. Will not crank at all. Turn key and T/B motor wizzes and nothing at all . No click click or anything .

Replaced my plenum with another factory item that I have ported and polished. Now the car will not start. Just nothing. Just wondering if anyone has any idea's whats happening here. Battery charged all vacuum hoses connected. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Cheers

No doubt they will be costly little items. Looking forward to seeing these hooked up to the Coyote. Cheer

Ratter, wouldn't improved scavenging improve economy. I didn't mean better than factory, just better than what you are already getting. Cheers

That*

Just a couple of thoughts on this. Firstly I think that one could adopt the factory strategy. Which uses the centre muffler as the reducer. What would mean that you could run a 4 inch system into a 3.5 inch centre muffler and exit. Surely X-force could provide such an arrangement. But if not its just a matter of taking it into an exhaust shop. Secondly, the power figure that is able to cope with this configuration would be up to 420RWKW's I suggest. So if going over that then the equation would go from a 4 1/2 inch from dump/cat into a 4 inch. Working back on 300rwkw's, should look something like 3 1/2 inch into a 3 1/4 inch.Just throwing some idea's around, because there are so many benefits to a properly balanced exhaust. Such as Power and economy. I have added this as it may also be helpful. http://www.mk5cortinaestate.co.uk/calculator5.php Cheers

Ralph, at what location does your system reduce back down to the 3 1/2 inches. Cheers

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/571594-exhaust-backpressure-the-myth/

To the OP this doesn't address your question, for that I apoligise, but it may be of some value to you. Generally what you are saying is correct. But I'd just like to try and explain a couple of things. Firstly, for a dyno bigger, is definately better. This is based on the fact that you don't have any pressurised air moving under the car. So exhaust gas cooling is very, very minimal. But in the real world when driving on the road, the exhaust system has a large surface area and is being subjected to rapid (external) air flow. Which is a very effective cooler, as we see many motorcycles and past cars such as Porshe, only using air to cool an engine. So what we are seeing is the exhaust gas will be starting to cool as soon as it leaves the cat. By reducing the pipe diameter (further down the system) you are able to maintain the heat/ speed (veloscity) that the exhaust is moving. Because you can push more volume through a small hole if it is travelling at a greater veloscity. By having an exhaust the same size all the way through, as the gases cool they slow veloscity. So even though you have a larger exit point, it doesn't equate to better flow in a turbo engine, due to the much higher exhaust temps. Just on a side note, I am wondering whether a better designed exhaust could actually assist with helping to maintain/ stabilise boost pressure. Hopefully with F1 cars going back to forced induction (1600cc) next year, there will be much greater advances with turbo technology, that at some stage this info will filter down. But I don't believe in this case bigger is better. A balanced system will provide a better and more consistent result. As far as I'm concerned, I believe that Ralphie's exhaust (in its entirety) is probably the benchmark at this point in time. Cheers

Before my time. I think Fluffy would be good. She brings a balanced perspective. She lives with Jet, so she's clearly patient. Just kiddin Jet. Cheers

To the OP, mate I think you have made your position very clear. Don't feel that you need to continually justify yourself. Tab, nicely managed. Fluffy your really starting to find your feet. Hopefully in the near future, you become the first (that Im aware of), female Mod. It has become very apparent to me that your the brains behind your operation. Back to the OP, my advice is to go to court, admit your wrong doing, and then seek a Hardship License. You will require a letter from your employer stating that without a license your employment will be terminated. Your previous record will be taken into consideration, as will any dependants. If you are granted a Hardship license you will be required to maintain a logbook, and have specific times. Don't get greedy when asked what times you would require. (Now I'm not sure whether these are applicable in Vic, as in Qld) Good Luck, and always be prepared for the worst. Cheers

In a Nut shell No. The reduction is required to maintain veloscity. Cheers