lowfutura

I got a brand new F6 grille (upper) and the matching 2 small lower side grilles all new. I am interested in selling if you need it. Pm me and I'll SMS a pic or I can put it up in the classifieds.

Just noticed the new subscription fees are in $20-50-100 US dollars. Details Duration Cost Donating Member - Three One Month Donating Member Access 1 Month 20.00 USD Donating Member - Two Six Month Donating Member access 6 Months 50.00 USD Donating Member - One Access to Donating Members Forum, Your own FordXR6Turbo.com email address, Special offers & deals for Donating Members. Special Access to Photo Gallery. 12 Months 100.00 USDIs this an attempt to keep future costs down as the Ausie doller over takes the US doller...lol

Potion

Mmm, I thought 13psi cold tyre pressure was a bit low at first too, and it took a few runs to work down to it, but keep in mind that with tyre warm up this pressure will increase by mor than 2-3 psi ( ET streets run around 12 but can go as low as 6psi). I constantly kept changing to 4th 50-60 mtr from the line with speeds between 180-190 kmh and only able to achive Max 12.5 second time slips. It was only when I wound 3rd out these times started to fall below 12.5 seconds, With std diff and gearing, Fastest speed was 198.8 kmh for 11.4 seconds and I think that if your car is running faster than 200.0 kmh, then congratulations your in the tens....

Double check the coil packs, I've heard cases of brand new coil packs failing too. If you not running cross over piping it will not take long.

I had the same problem, and so many people and even my tuner said it was valve springs( 07/07 BF), I didn't think it was, and turned out to be 2 coil packs were arching, $100 bucks and problem fixed.

Been through it all man, just take the 3 months suspension and get it over and done with. If you take the 12 month good behavior and you get done on 1 point, you are looking at 6 months cancelation and you return on probation license with 4 points for one year. Also if you lose your GDB ( good driving behavior) 1 point, your licence is cancelled on the spot.

No, I dont think that it is the Engine mount as there is no mention of low rev vibration in drive at idle. I would start with getting the swivle type Blade Bushes checked, these tend to Clunk when worn. Put your car in nutural with the hand brake on and rock the car back and forwards to see, or car in nutural on slight hill and roll back slow and pull hand brake on and off while holding button.

When you go back after an error, you have to re-enter the sale price.

I changed my front park lights and rear numberplate globes to blue LED's, same globe and easy as to change. Although you could not directly see the blue (led) globe, you could see the blue reflection front and rear. Some people in the community frown on the use of blue LED's but I liked the look, but was always at the ready to adjust the on/off position of the power source if I happened upon a frowner..

pick

nights

Seven

hour

MILES

Drag Run with a ZF6 Auto. Check you Dyno sheet and find out what RPM your car makes Maximum power before it starts to drop away ( this is your shift point, Mine is 5800 RPM.) If your on street tyres (13 psi)you dont need to do to much of a burn out as they operate best at around 60 deg ( Et's around 100 Deg). every thing off Tc, A/c ect easy burnout in 1st. Stage at line and brake hard in second gear ( this is to over ride gearbox protection in first) dont worry about trying to win the race if your just after your best time, the timer wont start until you break the light beam. Stall to 1800 RPM or less if your brakes wont hold. When the light turns green, put your gearbox infirst and as soon as the gear select shows 1 (First gear on your instrument cluster) GO, GO, GO. Foot off the Brake and exalerate flat to the boards. I dont have a shift light so I Watch the tacho and change to second just over 5800RPM. Hold it flat to the boards and change to third just over 5800 rpm Th ZF6 does over 200kmh in 3rd so you dont need to change to 4th, just keep it flat in 3rd and dont back off at all until you get the OTHER side of the finish line. Then nice firm/hard braking to slow you down for the turnoff. It Works for me....11.4 @ 123 Mph on street tyres. std unopened engine. The gearbox protection override technic for first gear in a ZF6, was told to me by Lee Bloom ( Real Dyno Performance) 10 second FG, It allows full torque in first gear through the Trans.

haha, damn iPhone google search... up to date now...

Man 300 passes, your 60 foot must have been down to 1.6 by that stage as your launch combo's would have been tried and true..

I think in the US their 1/4 mile time is given at the 1000 foot mark is this correct?

Did you get to 400rwkw with factory valve springs and head studs? I was wondering how far I could have pushed mine.

I ran an 11.4 @ 123.0 mph at willow bank on the 17 nov with completely stock unopened engine and street tyres, Federal ss595's. What is the record?

Shell Murcon SP Trans Fluid for ZF6 and re bottled as ford brand trans fluid.

I had my ZF done by sureshift at Virginia. He knows his stuff and I was also told by Byrne ford that he is now the recognised repairer for Ford automatic ZF transmissions in QLD, as ford were sending them down to melbourne prior to that. The owner has a racing background and has built boxes for some very tough cars... he does the boxes for the high output cars tuned by the Walkingshaw group. and it was actually Walkingshaw at Brendale that refered him to me.

Getting mine made shortly using 'Strange' billet yokes in 3" hightensile seamless tube, converted to solid X 1350 uni joints and slip yoke. 2 piece shaft (ZF) to upgraded centre bearing, didgitally ballanced and fitted for $1500... only trouble is they need the car for 2 days to make it from scratch. Also was told OK to 1200 HP

I believe there is some sort of 1st gear transmission protection programmed into the ZF. I was told by my tuner that it can be by-passed with a shifting tecnique, which worked very well for me for the last year or so, while boosting at the start of a race. It is to protect the box during fast 1st gear take off and also if the box is shifted into first gear at high speed. My transmission shift paramiters have been adjusted in my NEW race tune, to over-ride the gaer box protection in first gear to allow for high boost/ high rev take off... But I would say best to be stationary before chucking it back to first anyway...