Ninka

I use Casrol Formula R 10W-60 in my XR6T, and this oil was first put in at 4500 k's. I change every 10000 k's and my T doesn't use a drop of oil

The FAQ section may have some "legs" :idea: Would be a lot easier to find quality answers for various questions

Do I hear a suggestion that revenue is being raised by these radar or laser devices - surely NOT

Oh I am sorry KEN 24T I plain forgot about you :lol: Will try to be more considerate in the future The ideas on the FAQ type page sounds like a good idea. What I meant was that a very large and ongoing thread may make variations to an issue "drown" in the chit-chat going on about the preceeding 500 angles on the same issue. Maybe allow things like the Brake Shudder issue to be broken up into: Brake Shudder - Who has experienced it Brake Shudder - Possible solutions Brake Shudder - What is Ford doing about it Just a suggestion to increase the focus of a thread, especially on technical issues such as Brake Shudder, Modification Options etc. My 10 cents worth :D

Some of our threads are getting veeeeeeeeeeeeery long, and new threads from new members on similar topics are quickly being discouraged and closed by the moderating team. Should threads have a size limit or time limit on them before they are automatically closed, and a new thread started if the interest is still there. If I was a new member and had to read through some of the mammoth threads on the forum, this would in itself be discouraging as the time required would be excessive. Also I guess we would eventually run out of topics if these threads are alowed to continue forever. Just a thought, as I have had comments along this line from guests who have visited the site!

How would you propose to check the FWKW without removing the engine from the car?? I have a stage 1 CAPA kit boosting to 9 psi, and on my automatic vehicle, the RWKW increased from 173 kW to 200 kW with the increased boost. Now the 173 kW really has no comparative significance to other claimed kW values, but really only serves as a before / after scenario. I have done a run against Mr Walker and 1axr (std. manual and auto) at Myaree dyno a few months ago, and on that Dyno I produced 314 RWHP which equates to 234 kW. 1axr produced 280 RWHP, equating to 208 kW, so go figure!! The CAPA kit works really well, and importantly they preserve all the engine protective devices, so damage is probably less likely than with some other modification options around

OK guys, here's my experiences! I had bad brake shudder starting from about 5k's, lived with it until about 15k's where it was quite bad. Ford machined my original discs, after which the barke performance was cr*p, due to the rough surface Then fitted a new set of DBA Gold drilled and slotted front discs, which took the braking performance to a completely new level of smoothnes and performance, especially when making repeated high speed stops. I used the standard Ford brake pads, and things appeared sweet until recently Shudder was beginning to show up again, only very slightly, but it was definitely there. I contacted DBA for advice, and they suggested changing the original pads to Bendix Ultimates, as there was some evidence that the original pads left a residue on the outside of the front discs, probably caused by the constant dragging of the pads mentioned in the original brake shudder thread. I decided to take this advice immediately, and when the wheels were removed, it was very clear that there was a pattern of dark spots on the outside of the discs, which was not there on the inside of the discs. After changing the pads, the slight shudder is reduced, the discs are totally clean on the outside, and I feel confident that the shudder will disapear completely in a few weeks.

I agree with KEN 24T, dont't like it :( Sorry Dagabond, but just goes to show haw we all have different taste! What is it made from? And if air restriction is a concern, why did Herrod have to stick a great big logo in the middle of it

Guys, I feel with you on this one!! Let me explain my experience with loss of power after a visit to Ford! I run a CAPA stage 1 boost kit, and after having the car in the Ford workshop for front disc machining, the performance of the car was dramatically changed. Before it went in, it absolutely flew, with boost at 8-9 psi, NO PROBLEMS. After that visit to Ford it would only boost to 5-6 psi before cutting out on over-boost!! I consulted with Marks Workshop in York, and CAPA, and we found that tha Boost Box had to be set at a completely different setting to produce the same result as before the visit to Ford. Now our conclusion is that Ford have flashed the ECU (even though they deny this), and probably reduced the factory boost allowed, maybe to save a few dollars on warranty replacement of manual gearboxes!! I have been able to get around this by re-adjusting the Boost-Box, but for you guys with standard boost, you are at the mercy of Ford, and I have STRONG doubts that they are being honest with us!!!!!!!! By fitting a CAPA Boost Box, you take control of the boost, and even if you only want to ensure that boost is at the specified 6-7 psi, the unit is useful for this purpose.

Signature doesn't lie, I own one too (Nov.02 build) 20000 k's on the clock, and all good

Is some of this in an 80 kmh zone? Hope it's 110. I'll be in, say 14th September? 14 September should work for me as well!

I've done some 4000 k's at 8.5 - 9 psi of boost, and absolutely no problems with the engine. I agree with gareth, and I'm going to change my engine oil a bit more frequently. I run Castrol synthetic 10w60.

Any news of this event yet??

As I'm in WA I have used their agent here, Marks Workshop in York.

I had the CAPA 8-9 psi kit fitted as one of the first customers back in May, and apart from some minor adjustment issues, it works very well. The most important issue for me in selecting CAPA, is that they are boost specialists, and as such probably understand better than other companies, the consequenses of increasing the boost on the XR6T. Since sorting out the adjustment issues, I can run 8.5 - 9 psi boost reliably, and the car feels a lot stronger than standard.

Geoff Polites did release the Turbo???? Sorry Dagabond, next time I will make allowances for you :D Of course I meant if this problem was preventing release, then .... Are we all clear now?? :D

3" stainless from Turbo back, 2 straight through mufflers and high flow cat. Note is awesome, and I agree with Silverhawk, the top end is not changed much, but mid-range is much better, and this shows up on the Dyno as well. Cost was about $1,300 plus a couple of hours for fitting

For hot summer days or repeated runs at full throttle, an oil cooler is an absolute must. The engine protective (this is a good thing) ECU, will reduce the performance of the car if any parameters are outside acceptable limits, and high oil temperature will result in reduced boost, and reduced performance. So you go ahead and visit Repco or source the oil cooler kit from CAPA.

Spoke to CAPA yesterday, and Tony Rullo was not happy with the performance I described for my XR6T. We decided that I should go through the installation, check everything, and then do a base adjustment as per the newest instruction manual. After doing this I found that the problems I had been experiencing was due to the boost mixture screw being set at the 8 - 9 psi setting, which apparently was too low. After switching to the 10 psi setting, the problems dissapeared, and the car boosts reliably to 9 psi. Further I feel that the boost comes on earlier and smoother during normal city driving, and when I floor it :D Hope to have cleared up any perceptions of a malfunctioning product

Just wanted to add my two cents worth All in all I am quite happy with my dealer here in the West (Titan Ford, Melville), they are reasonably quick to get minor problems fixed. The real IRRITATING thing is my whining diff!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I have waited since the first replacement of the diff. in April I think, to have this problem recitified The dealer can't do anything as they are not allowed to open the diff., and I get regular reports from a girl in FPV, that Ford's engineers are working on the problem, but unfortunately there is no fix available yet. I bet you that if Geoff Polites were waiting to release the XR6T, this problem would have been fixed a long time ago. I have told the girl at FPV not to give me regular updates of "no news", as it is a constant reminder of the time it is taking to fix this problem, and I have asked that she only contact me when they have a fix! Had the brake shudder as well, but now use DBA gold drilled and slotted (paid from own pocket), and no problems so far

Not sure if this would give any measurable performance gain, but I understand the idea behind it - Less intake resistance, more power. It really would depend on the capacity of the fan

I'm a bit puzzled here! The engine runs a pressurised cooling system to avoid the water boiling, right! Water boils at 100 deg.C. at an atmospheric pressure of 1 bar, right! I believe most engine thermostats open at between 82 and 85 deg.C., so how is it possible for the oil in this environment to remain at 75 deg.C. Sorry to sound like a smarta**e :lol: , but I'm sure the oil is hotter than the water in the engine, especially given the exposure to the really hot bits, like the turbo and pistons. Am I completely off track here

I agree, mine was 173.2 max power before modifications. One thing I have found most intriguing, is that the turbo pressure (with CAPA Stage 1 kit) initially is 7.5 - 8 psi when accellerating hard, but then quickly gets pulled down to about 5.5 - 6 psi after a couple of runs, and stays there. Turn the key off, leave off for a couple of minutes, and she's back up to 7.5 - 8 psi again on next run Anyone else experiencing this? I know tha car does this in standard version as well, and Mark of Mark's Workshop felt that it may have been oil temperature that caused the ECU to turn things down a little. I'm just puzzled that the turbo pressure is back up after leaving the key off for a couple of minutes, at least till she's run hard again, then it drops again, so I'm assuming the ECU gets a reset every time the key is turned off. Any other clues anyone?

Will try to make it, but I'm leaving for a business trip to Brisbane and the UK on Saturday, and I won't be back until Friday August 8 around midnight. Won't have time to sort out license or whatever else is required before the meet, so won't be driving :(

Mine in standard configuration, measured before modifications on a Dynamic Test Systems Dyno at Marks Workshop in York was measured to 173.2 kW, it's an automatic. After CAPA kit and 3" stainless turbo back exhaust = 200 kW same Dyno same settings