igsta

Dont bother with the cargo net, I had it installed and all it did was get tangled up with things. As for the jack I put it in the tray tied up with a few cable ties.

After getting a stone chip on my bonnet I purchased the clear bonnet protector and havnt had a chip since. I also did hear that blueprint is alot more prone to chips than other colours. Car bras arent the best looking form of protection unless you go on a long trip. I also put some mud spats on to stop chiping.

Trough lolly, is that turbo or NA. Bloody cheap either way

Dont use metho on your paint. Use eucalyptus oil to get of the sticky bits off or anything else like tar. Too much metho can ruin your clear coat eucalyptus oil is safe.

Is the dyno day on the 25th still going ahead. If it is count me in. I am quite interested to see what my T is producing.

Mine is fine on start up. Its just when its warm it idles very rough and occasionally stalls, very embarrasing at the lights. Ford re flashed the ecu a few times but it did nothing. Back to the dealer......... again.

Mine has superlows at the front and there is no gap. Depending on how high your back is, it may raise the front a bit.

By the way Rednut the top of my tyre is about inline if not a bit higher to the top of the guard. As you said in the other post you have a 10mm gap. This sounds about right as superlows, lower your car by about 10mm more then lows. I hope I dont have any problems with the tyre hitting the guard as I am running 19" by 245s, 40s. The tyre seems to taper in a bit on the edges.

Where you can see the gap in the leaf springs is where I put a bit of rubber tubing inside tied off with cable tie to stop the clunking noise. Worked a treat for me.

pic 3

Its a bit hard to see with the lighting and also they should settle maybe 5 to 10 mm

Here is a few pics of my ute with superlows

Thanks rednut. Much appreciated.

Problem fixed. The leaf springs were slapping on themselves on bumpy roads causing a noise. I put some rubber from a tube in between the gap in the leaf springs and cable tied it together. No more noise. The next problem I have is the drivers side is 10mm lower at the back. Not sure how it was standard. Im thinking/hoping that the passenger side is higher by 10 mm to account for the petrol tank being on that side. Could someone please measure their standard ute from guard to centre of wheel, both sides and see what the difference is. :roll:

I lowered my ute with super lows at the front and droped the back 2 inches. It looks sweet. The back is higher by about 5mm with 1/4 of a tank. Regardles of what people tell you make sure you chop all your bumpstops in half so you have that travel and you wont bounce around like a charade with chopped springs. I suggest you get 19 inch with 40 series as it gives you about 10 mm higher clearance than 18 inch with 45. We actually did put the two wheels together so I am 100% that the 19s were about 20 mm higher than 18s. Remember that the xr8 has different front springs to the xr6 to account for the extra weight. Hope this helps a bit.

Can you lock the doors with the remote when the timer has finished. If so maybe you could install a relay or something to lock the doors themselves after the timer has counted down and swithched the engine off. Also an auto up power windows feature would be nice.

Yes my leaf spring have gone just past being flat.

Ive pretty much got squeeky bushes all the time.

I finally lowered my ute 2 inches. Now when I go over bumpy or rough road my leaf springs make a clunking/rattle noise. Has anyone experienced this in their lowered utes.

Mine does it in 3rd and in low rpm. I told the service guys, they said they could hear it. They tried to fix it saying they tightened up all the bolts but its still there.

I have an Autometer "Cobalt" boost/vacuum gauge. Its black with blue numbers. It perfectly matches the rest of the dash.

My power window controls would rattle. I pulled it off put some electrical tape around the bit that goes inside and now its sweet. Another noise I cannot find which sounds like near the drivers door speaker, and yes even when the radio is off.

Here is a pic of my old tx3 with tinted lights I sprayed with night shades. I did heaps of coates to get them that dark.

Killbot. Use only mineral oil. At least for the first 15 000 ks. Using synth will prevent your motor (piston rings) from wearing in properly. I used castrol magnatec as I have heard its great to run your car in with. My first change was at about 2000 and I do it every 7500ks.

I put clear tail lights on my ute, these lights dont have reverse lights so I took the reverse globes out. Then when I drove it, it went into limp mode like you described for about 5 -10 minutes and then back to normal. I think any kind of change to the car and it puts itself into limp mode until it learns what is new to the car.