XtRmn8

The only cheap tyre I would recommend is the Maxxis MA-V1. You get them for $180 a corner fitted and balanced. Do you go through 3 sets because of the kms you do or just the way you drive?

mummba by running a 9.5" wide rim with a +20mm offset versus the factory 8" with +35mm, I doubt you will have issues at the rear. The inner clearance will be 4mm less and they will sit about 35mm further out. With the factory 8" rims the rear have about 100mm between the wheel and guard. I think you may have a problem with the fronts.

kane_tools, where did you use 8 of those brass washers? I only need 2 each end of the feed line.

mummba you must have done well to fill out that pumped out tub.

Will be good to see a mid 12 from very minimal mods and the good old dinosaur 4 speed plus the extra weight of the 20s and BBQ setup .... as suggested maybe try some low fat sausages and no onions next time and you might get a 12?

I got mine from PWR direct. Called them and it was posted via TNT and I had it the next day and cheaper then buying from local Repco.

The barracuda seems to be the sticker of choice down this way.

I look forward to finally seeing an XR6T in WA that will not break drive shafts on every second run Impressive setup to say the least .....only one thing missing, rear mud flaps!

I'll be interested as well Mike. I am sure if you get a bunch made up you wont have issues selling them.

With AAMI you can just do an online quote, takes about 2 minutes.

Yea I just switched both our cars to AAMI. One of the policies was half the amount RAC wanted for a renewal

RAC?

djkice, G.MAX look better imo.

Ripped off Mike!!

The wire with the black line is the negative. The negative will also be the one with the smaller plug.

Look real good mate. Did you use caliper paint? How did you clean the calipers before you painted them?

I was just about the say the Cobra wheels where white and those black ones are from the 40th Ann GT from memory.

I've already had both of them straightened and bearings replaced, but one is still not 100%.

Adrian, if you do find a whole Turbo or PFV ute diff I may be interested in one of the drive shafts if they are not bent.

mic, got any pictures you can put? Never seen 18" Hiros on a Falcon.

Part number for the OEM filter/fitting is SY9P424A. I got mine from Coventrys and it was about $75. I do not have the part number for the cooper washers on me atm.

Finally got around to the turbo oil feed line while I am doing a number of other things. Glad to stay that after pulling the filter and feed line off, neither were blocked and the turbo was getting heaps of oil. This is on a 100000km engine that has been serviced as per Ford service schedule. Was not as easy to remove as I thought due to the location and lack of access. Would be much easier to do this while the oil filter if off. Also I found using deep sockets works best, I used a 22mm and 24mm deep socket with a short arm shifter that I could get in to hold one nut at a time as I undid them in order. Here are some pictures of the OEM filter next to the current (revised) OEM filter. Notice the new filter is much larger inside the fitting as well as the feed holes: I also pulled off the oil feed line to clean it out. The line was not blocked but I blew the oil out and then filled it with carby cleaner and let it sit for 5 min then blew it our with compressed air. Also hit it with some wet/dry and metal polish. Before: After:

Can not video atm as car is off the road. It is not as snappy as the mechanical gauge but it faster than the electrical in the video. I have nothing to compare it to so can not tell you if it is slow.

Steve, my Race Tech stepper motors boost gauge is nothing like the one in the video. That mechanical gauge looks like the vacume reading is either on or off?

"Race Tech" gauges are cheap and the come in 52mm smoke face and blue LED illumination. Had them for 12 months now and no issues and pretty sure they can still be bought on ebay.