Benny

I would strongly suggest checking the tune on the dyno. If it was a like for like replacement, as in GT35/40 for GT35/40 then no need but to go with a different manufacturer then there is a high possibility of the two turbos having a different flow map. Benny.

Agreed. I'd measure pressure as close to the rail as you can. I connect into the fuel line right before the rail on my GT. It will depend on how the gauge you have can be connected into the line. If your issue gets worse with low fuel I'd be pulling the pump and swirl pot to check that as well. Not an easy job with a ute I know. Benny.

Hi temp Brembo decals can be found on ebay. Benny.

Charlie, You need to connect the gauge and see what pressure you have at idle. If that's ok then you need to watch the fuel pressure at wide open throttle, right through the rev range. If the pressure drops away during the run then you have an issue. Benny.

Supercheap don't keep it in stock on the shelf but will get it in. That's how I got mine. Benny

I totally agree. In my mind it's about getting what you need for a price you see as reasonable. I have a balanced shaft that is gaurenteed well above the power I'm aiming for and at a price that I think is quite reasonable. Benny.

Sourcing a shaft from here in Newcastle might not be cost effective once you factor in freight but it would be worth investigating. Contact Chris Gibson at Gibsons Driveshafts, he is one of the nicest guys you'll deal with and will bend over backwards to help you out. Chris makes shafts for a number well known Sydney tuners. http://www.gibsondriveshaft.com.au/about.html (02) 4958-3059 Benny.

I would suggest more likely you have a coil or lead issue than the vacuum hose causing the miss. Certainly replacing the broken vacuum line is advised. Benny.

You can get quality strong tailshafts for much less than $2k. I had mine made locally for $1250 and is gauranteed for 1000hp. I've had no issues and the quality is very good. Benny.

Base AFR was 12.0:1. Due back on the dyno this week using the smallest nozzle. My plan is to use it for safety rather than outright power. I'll be running 14psi on a stock engine which is nearing the max safe boost using the stock HTV1900 on 98. I'm using my washer bottle as the tank and have not installed the additional solenoid due to my tank being well below the height of the injector. I was still a little concerned with the air rushing past the nozzle that it would syphon some of the water/meth through, but after driving for two weeks with the pump isolated there has been no loss of fluid from the tank. With the amount of blowby and oil in the intake I'm expecting lubricating the throttle body won't be required, but time will tell. Benny.

My car using the biggest nozzle dyno'd with an AFR of 10.5:1, which was way too rich. This AFR resulted in a loss of power right up until the run was aborted at around 4500rpm. Benny.

The Stage 3 kit doesn't have that functionality but I think an additional controller can be purchased as a fail safe. Not sure how it would integrate to our cars though. The difference of the Stage 3 kit is it has an electronic controller and the ability to trigger from boost or injector pulse width or both depending on how you program it. Benny.

There is no issue with fitting the biggest nozzle other than having to pull a fair amount of fuel from the factory injection. To balance my tune and maintain the desired AFR to make good power, a total of 14% would had to have been trimmed from the factory injection. This isn't an issue but can be a real problem if the water/meth pump fails. This will more than likely result in a blown engine. I wasn't willing to take such a big risk. Benny.

BJC, Yes I have the Stage 3 boost cooler system and at this stage aiming to run 50/50 mix. If I cannot get a happy medium using the meth then I will switch to straight water. I have my nozzle fitted approx 3 inches from the throttle body in the rubber/plastic intake tube. Benny.

Just water alone can be a good (make shift) octane booster believe it or not. The octane of the fuel is essentially its ability to resist knock. Lowering the temperatures of the combustion cycle in turn decreases the liklihood of knock and can allow the addition of more timing. Adding the methanol on top of the water further improves the knock resistance of the air/fuel mixture. If it was safe to do so, running straight meth would be ideal but without the addition of water, methanol is highly flammable and not advised by many. As for nozzle sizes and which one to use, it will depend highly on how much mixture you want to be injecting and how much fuel you wish to pull from the factory injection. Biggest nozzle means more fuel to be pulled out and vica versa. I've tried the biggest nozzle and was too much, next dyno tune will be with the smallest. If you wish to use water/meth as a fuel to make power then go the big nozzle, if you wish to use it for safety then a smaller nozzle might be more suited. I'm still in the testing stages but I will feedback my results as they come to hand. Benny.