nelsonian101

I purchased some Grids recently overly concerned if they cleared Brembos and just did a test fit on the front. They cleared by miles but what I failed to determine the correct centre bore of 70.5mm for Falcons. They just didn't sit right in the middle. Rechecked specs and The Rotas I received have a centre Bore of 73mm. If fitted all weight would be supported by the 5 bolts making it dangerous. Do I need a centre bore 1mm spacer ring? Thanks.

Don't read too much into tread wear ratings. I've had tyres with far less wear rating with far less grip. Trear depth and compound technology must be taken into account. These particular Michelins have a 300 rating. Continental Extreme Contact DW's are 340 and they stick better than most low 200's. The Goodyears I have on the front are the new version 2. Did well in a Motor Mag test too which doesn't surprise me. They clear water very well which is why I use them on the front. The oldler Asymmetrics had a treadwear of 240 I think. New ones should last longer at 300 but are just as sticky. Progress my friend.

These at the front 245/40 18: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Goodyear&tireModel=Eagle+F1+Asymmetric+2&partnum=44YR8F1A2&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes These at the rear in 275/35 18 on 9.5's: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Michelin&tireModel=Pilot+Super+Sport&partnum=735YR8PSSXL&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes If there is a better option for wet and dry grip on the road with decent wear rate, I don't know about it.

Does anyone sell E85 in 20litre drums (mixed with 98) instead of the 91 used in the pump fuel?

How is the start up power with this smaller dry cell in the relocated place? The tune will be with E85 too, and with most of my track days in winter, can see cranking over possibly being a problem.

I am having fitted a 4" pod filter kit on the turbo side in a FGXR6T and will be relocating the battery to where the stock airbox once was. The battery frame in the kit I currently have only fits the stock battery size. The car is slowly being lightened for circuit duties and I will be switching to a smaller dry cell like the PC680. Is it as simple as modifying the battey tray in the kit to support the smaller battery? (Cross beam bracing?) Any ideas?

Shipping About $325 for 4 tyres. Plus about $25 bank fee for international transfer. I went with 245/40 Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 2 from fronts. $199ea. USD rate is worth it at present.

Just ordered some of these bad boys for the back in 275/35 18 to go on 9.5" rims with 35 Offset. http://www.tirerack....romCompare1=yes To me they look like the perfect compromise for tread life (300 treadwear), wet performance and grip (stock on 599GTO) you need in a road tyre for a car with over 300rwkw. I've used high quality tyres like Continental DW, Eagle F1 Asymmetric and stickier AD08, (plus cheaper street semis like KU36 and RT615s) but none seem to have the all round performance I am after wet and dry. These may be the solution! Anyone tried them?

Is that the MP-7008 and does it bolt directly in when using E85? I coud that put a stock paper Ford Filter back in when using 98?

Is it ok to use the stock fuel filter with E85 as long at is changed more regularly? Is there an aftermarket high flow stainless fuel filter available that is a direct replacement for the stock system. As I will be running both an E85 (track) and 98 street tune, does the filter have to be changed each time?

I've had a 5" 100cpi cat on my FGXR6T for about 80,000kms. I've always run 98 fuel with regular 7,500km synthetic oil changes. I'm getting a new tune this year and was wondering if the cat has been blocked slightly with this many kms? Is it worth replacing before the next tune?

Does anyone know if the Rota Grid 18 X 8.5" +30 clear Brembos at the front?

My FGXR6T has done 150,000kms and over 10 full track days. Has been run round 17psi for the last 80,000kms too. Have always used Royal Purple Sythetic changed before every track day, every 7,500kms or so. Turbo line mesh filter was checked at 70,000kms approx. but was completely clean. Replaced anyway. Switching to Earls filter and heat wrapped turbo line soon though. To answer the question, like anything it depends on how you look after it. If I ran it stock with no track days, I would expect 400,000kms out of it. With my track days and high boost, very happy to get close to 170-200,000kms.

Car is a 2008 FGXR6T. I should be getting around 320rwkw out of my next tune next year, but the peak number is irrelevant. Smooth, progressive power is the goal. 4" turbo side airbox, barrel E85 for track days, surge tank, PWR Stepped cooler and piping, real ID1000's, 4" dump ' 100cpi cat. Done 150,000kms!!! and over 10 track days with regular 7,500km servicing with high quality Royal Purple Synthetic. Replaced stock turbo filter and lines at 70,000kms even though perfectly clean due to service history. (though switching to Earls filter and heat wrapped turbo line next year) It it a time bomb waiting to happen at 17psi though! My question is: What is your opinion on the best Turbo for circuit use? (not for drag racing) I like the fast spool up of the stock turbo on the FGXR6T (which I have currently tuned to approx 295rwkw with mods) and believe it is better at putting the power down more smoothly at corner exit on the track compared to a bigger turbo with more lag. 3rd gear can be held with more Torque at Turn 12 at Eastern Creek and turn 2 and Fish Hook at Wakefield, than the stock BF turbo I am thinking. I am hoping to achieve the perfect combo with E85 next year for my requirements. My rear track wheels are only 8.5" wide and would imagine that a big turbo and 400rwkw tune would be near impossible to get power down, even with the 245 Grooved Hankook Z214 slicks I am using on the rear. At the extreme end of the scale the opposite seems to be true. The Fernandez Time Attack XR6T had to switch to a bigger turbo as they found the smaller turbo's were just making too much Torque to put power down mid corner with the R specs. Had to short shift constantly. Maybe a GTX3582?

Check the oil line to the turbo is not blocked. If you fit a new turbo, the same may happen again. Some people fit an Earls filter and braided lines.

Need more details. Look at these, in approx. order of grip level. Good value street semi's are Kumho KU36, Federal 595RSR, Falken RT615, Toyo R1R, Dunlop Direzza Star Spec. Bridgestone RE11 and Yokohama AD08's will do most everything well. If you are more serious about grip and are not concerned with price, wear rates, noise, cold bite or aquaplane resistance etc Look at R-rated semis. Still street legal. Toyo R888, Dunlop DZ03G, Yoko A050 etc. MT radial will give you the best legal straight line power down for rears at the expense of everything else.

At this price, you can't go wrong: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Goodyear&tireModel=Eagle+F1+Asymmetric&partnum=435YR9F1AXLOLD&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes

Just to confirm, for the FG the 3/4 48mm length is required below? The ones I always see are the purple 60mm ones below. Been told they can be fitted to FG, but require spacers. Not keen on this. So to confirm, the 48-14's are the way to go withe the correct EV1 adapters for an FGXR6T?

285 at the front would be crazy!, but your wheel bearings will suffer with those offsets. Have you experimented with more neg camber at the front and a lower treadwear/stickier compound than KU36?

I was impressed with the PC35's as a track only pad. Strong, consistent bite with good modulation. Not quite as bitey as the SBS dual Carbon Ceramics (I.e.on/off) I had previously but far more progressive. Both were too much for me on the road due to squealing and I only used them as track only pads in front only. The 4 pot Brembos are fine for me (5 laps at a time) and work extremely well with the new DBA5000 T3's. Dust seals burnt away long ago but still seem to work fine. http://www.clubspect3.com/BRO_T3_APRIL2011_web.pdf Would love some AP's but budget didn't stretch that far :(

Your Name:Paul NobleCar Make and Model:FG XR6T Circuit Name:Wakefield ParkLap time:1min10.50 on RaceChrono with 5HZ GPS Modifications Engine:XR6T. PWR Intercooler, Injectors, 5" 100cpi cat, oil cooler Power:289rwkw Suspension:600lb front springs, rear Lovells Koni Reds revalved. Solid front sway, whiteline rear bar Tyres:Front ToyoR888 245, Rear Hankook Z214 245 Brakes:Front 4 pot Brembo, Endless PC35 padsBody weight: 1770kg

I was thinking of just doing one of these days with some mates next year around April/May. http://www.driveevents.com.au/ Are those wheels Volk TE37's and did you use a camber kit to get that much negative at the front?

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Hankook&tireModel=Ventus+Z214 about $200ea 245 18"

Buy all my tyres from tirerack.com. Highly recommended. As little as 7-10 days delivery time around $300 feight for 4 tyes. In those sizes, I recommend these for a great all round street tyre. Grip and Last a long time. Only $240 for a high quality rear 275 20". Can't beat that. http://www.tirerack....romCompare1=yes

I've done a 3 track days here now in my FG and agree it is a great track. Went from 2min01 first time (stock power, Front Brembos, king springs) to 1min55 3rd time there (285rwkw, bigger front rear bars, 600lb front springs, koni red shocks, worn out r888's). Expecting a 1.53 next time depending on conditions and will be using Hankook grooved Z214's on the rear in 245 and a new front camber kit. Found my Toyo R888's to make the biggest difference to time. Tyres are THE most important thing for track set up. Biggest bang for buck to improve every aspect of handling/braking/power down etc. With Semi's you will knock off 3 seconds instantly. I have been in the car with 3 instructors now, plus some great tips from Rosie (I think who laps his Roof Racked Taxi through here in 1.48's-49's!). At turn 4, I was braking too early. Because it is uphill a bit before turn in, slam on the brakes at the 50m point (won't unsettle the car too much) and don't enter the turn too far to the left before turn in if that makes sense. You will never get a 2 tonne car through turn 1 flat out. You have to ease off, don't turn in too early and coast through the first part of the turn to settle the car then power on hard through the exit.