XR6_661

Haha yeah, the bug has bitten! Hopefully can get the car tuned mid september, then it's back to the strip to crack 14s as I mentioned previously. Maybe I can nail a launch and shave .099 off my 60ft =P With the mods I have, I'll be happy to make 165-170rwkw and crack a 14.8. But we'll see! If I start getting serious it's time for 3.9 gears and a stallie. Hopefully that wont sacrifice streetability.

Took my N/A Xr6 out for a hoon at tville dragway last weekend. Did 9 runs. Best time of the night was: 15.443 @ 89.10mph - 2.099 60ft. Gonna get the car tuned soon and hopefully crack 14s!!

That's a downhill mountain bike...not motorbike lol.

I think I speak for everyone when I say I want to take my XR6 for a strap on that road!!!!

When people try and correct things you say or try and tell you you didn't say something. I Know what came out of my mouth idiot.

We could just blame P-Platers, Finacial Crisis and Global Warming. Everyone else seems to!

Name: Hal Age: 21 Sex m/f: Male Location city /state: Cairns, FNQ Occupation: Civil Designer for The Robert Bird Group Currently drive: BA MkI XR6 Next drive: No idea. Married: Nope

I've been first on the scene of a rollover too. The guys were drinking and lost control off a roundabout. There was a teenage party close by too, so no doubt they were heading there

Worthwhile on a N/A?

Get the 4490s if you are after low end torque. Get the 4495s if you are after high end torque.

Here is my tinted taillights Done them ages ago, but gave them my own little twist. Masked the brake and reverse/indicator sections off and tinted the rest. 2 Lights coats. Then a polish. Came up sweet. At night

Ugh....wrong. Explain why I fitted a 2.5in" high flow cat to my BA Mk1 XR6...and didn't get a tune or anything like that. Never once seen my engine light come on, and it was far from doughy. o2 sensor is located before the cat on the std headers anyways. Hmmm. As for bang for your buck mods...Get an F6 lower intake, K&N panel filter and an XR6 upper snorkel. Won't really give you any rwkw, but you'll get better throttle response and a nice induction roar. All up...well for me...It was about $150ish. If you wanna go further, build some custom piping from the airbox to the TB. Exhaust is the next thing. Good set of headers, 2.5in" catback and a high flow cat. Should pick up a few rwkw there. Underdrives next. Good luck finding someone to put it on though. You need a special harmonic balancer removal tool...escpecially built for the Barra motors. Think it's like $180ish too. You could always use a normal tool and breaker bar to the ground and then crank the motor....not reccommended, but it works. Also, when doing the underdrives, replace the timing case cover seal (I think that's what it is). That's about $40ish. Umm...BPT thermostat is a good investment. Doesn't open fully until 104 degrees or something, std opens way earlier. They are about $40. Once again, no rwkw increase. Pretty much after that you're looking at decent coin....$600ish for a flash box, plus custom tunes. Scrape in for under 1g there. Cams and valve springs, once again...600 for cams, 450ish for valve springs, plus the money for another custom tune...Over 1500 there. Then you can look into doing headwork...which I don't think anyone with an N/A BA/BF has really explored....Ummm if you are after high end torque, you can look at the option of a turbo intake plenum, not much rwkw increase for the dollar though....Would be a good $2000 all up for that I'd imagine. You could get a custom twin throttle body setup made....Once again, big money for small gains...Also I hear rumours of a TB spacer being made for the N/A 6's...which should see some good gains. Stall converters, diff gears....LSD....manual conversion....All these things spring to mind. But remember it's not how much power you have, it's how well you get that power to the tarmac. So in saying all that, there is definatly potential for a 200rwkw + N/A 6...especially with a BF as they had the barra 190 motor...dual knock sensors and dual cam timing. But, you'll need to spend some big coin to get there. But that's the price of being different. Hope this helps. Cheers

Sounds awesome man. It'll definatly be a nice motor with the rebuild! Should be good for some decent power! Yeah, put some thought into the gearbox. I had a new 4 speed put in a month or so ago, and had it all strengthened, etc. The transmission blokes said it'll handle a lot of power now. But in case I've got a PWR trans cooler to go on it as well. I'm also planning to get a tailshaft and LSD center out of a XR6T. I'm hoping I can find most of these parts locally. But if not, FTG is my friend. I think I'll definatly go down the path of getting a turbo sump...I just hope the sumps are easy enough to change over! How does a N/A PCM read boost? Stock boost controller? I've thought about just getting a 12psi actuator and controlling boost that way. Anyways mate, I'll keep this thread updated as I progress. look forward to seeing your build! Good to see us N/A fellas are all starting to convert!

Alright. Nearly ready to do this...finally....I hope. I've got, and this is how much I've spent. Std Cross over, intercooler, dump pipe, BOV - $150 Std manifold, 2 bar MAP, Oil & Water Lines - $500 (FTG) Garret T40E Turbo - $450 Manual Boost Controller (Can I use this? or will I need electronic) - $150 Boost Guage - cheapish "drift" unit - $50 All associated fittings, T pieces, Hose clamps, etc etc - $200ish I'm guessing Can I get away with not having a CAPA flash tuner & custom tunes for a couple of weeks once the car is converted? Reason being I have a week off work soon, and wanna do the conversion then, then when my next pay rolls in, get a flash box & tunes. I'm still concerned about drilling and tapping the sump...Perhaps a viable solution would be to but a xr6t sump and put that on. Is it a big job to take a sump off and put one back on? I think an xr6t sump would be about $300ish? I think I'll go down this path...May be able to source one cheaply. Umm...mmm, any last minute questions I can think of... Oh, since I'm using a t4oe turbo, will I need an adaptor plate, or are they the same flange as a genuine xr6t turbo? Also, in regards to the std dump pipe...will that fit on a t4oe? or will I need something custom made... I'm thinking once it's done the cars gonna have to be trailered into an exhaust shop to have a custom dump made and the dump bolted up to my exhaust. Anyways, I've put aside roughly another $1000 to get all the small things done. Hopefully I can wrap this all up for around the $2500. As ol mate big Kev'd say, "I'm Excited"

Great Post mate. I've also been looking into ways of avoiding tapping my sump. Using something like you've pointed out in the picture seems like a viable solution. Perphaps not the ones on the bottom...as doesn't the oil drain grav down? But plug HB3 seems like it'd be good. Not sure what diameter the oild drain is...my guess is around the 12mm-15mm mark. Perhaps pirtek or whoever could make something to suit one of the holes already there. I'll subscribe to this thread. Cheers

Heard nothing but good things from Raptor SC. Their kit comes complete, ready to bolt up with flash box, etc. For bit over 5g I think. Few hundred extra gets you water injection with the kit. If you are a member of Australian Ford Forums, drop 'badcooky' a PM. He's supercharged his ute with raptor kit and has nothing but good things to say about raptor.

NO NO f*ckING NO. BLASPHEMY

More restriction then airflow. What if one of those blades shattered as well? Wouldn't be very nice going into your TB

Few more questions on the N/A to T Build. And just a bump for people to answer my previous questions! In regards to the oil feed/drain lines, etc. Will I have to tap holes in the block for these? Or are there bungs? I'm a bit iffy on tapping the block =S If in fact it does need to be tapped, what would be the best way to do it, without taking the motor out? Take it too a mechanic or metal fab joint? Apart from the tune, etc. I'll be doing the rest of the work myself. Also, is $2000 for a turbo, manifold, heatshielding and oil feed/drain, water lines a fair price?

Urgent help needed. Does anyone know, in a BA I6, 4spd Auto, where abouts a certain cable is you can disconnect to stop the torque converter from locking up? If someone could please help me out, with a picture or explanation to whereabouts this certain cable is located, that'd be a lifesaver. Cheers in advance.

I just got myself a reconditioned gearbox from brissie....$1800 fitted inc. freight to cairns. I could get you the details of the company that sells them in brissie if you want

Someone suggested that instead of chasing standard parts, I should get aftermarket parts? Now, If I took this path, I'd be getting the standard manifold, turbo, lines, regulator & MAP Sensor. I'd have to get aftermarket piping, cooler, BOV, dump pipe, Flash tuner + tunes, injectors & boost controller (I've decided on a Turbosmart Eboost2) One of my main concerns is will I need to run an auto XR6T ECU if I am using a boost controller & flash tuner. I'm assuming the car probably wouldn't start & run once everything is bolted on and not tuned...or would it? I know I'd be up for more cash doing it with aftermarket parts, but would it be a better way of doing it to start with? I want to do this build as cheap as possible. My idea was to get the car running on the standard gear to start with, leave it like for for a while and slowly upgrade it. What are everyones opinions on this?

G'day, Yeah I've done a lot of the figures in my head, and I'm still sure I'd be coming out on top by converting my N/A XR to turbo. Like I said in a previous post, I own my car outright and I have the cash now to do the conversion. I know I wouldn't get much for my BA XR....02 model, I'd probably get 16g private sale at the most for it I'm assuming. I'm just avoiding getting into debt (gonna save that for when I buy a house =P) But yeah, like I said, I'm gonna be coming out on top by converting mine and it doesn't hurt to be different. And lets face it, we all become very fond of our pride and joys and I'm not wanting to part with my baby! I understand where you're coming from though mate.

Yeah sweet, I'll want to do this right first time so I'll go the path of the custom flash tunes. I'm assuming a good workshop will know what to do? My cars an auto, but will I need an electronic shift kit with the flash tuner? As I understand you can firm up shifts through the custom flash, I'll be spending the cash on an in car boost contoller as well...Got my eyes on a Turbosmart Eboost2...but with a price tag of around $700 I'm not sure...Just wondering if a cheapish controller would serve the same purpose? Perhaps an under bonnet dual stage and I could wire it to an in cabin toggle switch? Would that work? Cheers, Hal.

Thanks mate, most helpful post I've had on any forum. When you say tuning through the map sensor on an xr6t tune, do you mean through means of a flash tuner? What is the turbo logic, is that a parameter in the ECU that decides when the cat goes into overboost? What would be the easiest way to control the boost? I'm assuming an in cabin dual stage controller or similar would be the way to go....But I'm new to the whole forced induction thing so I'm not 100% sure. Thanks for your post mate.