MADF6

You're the guy who wants to put a FG front spoiler on a BA aren't you...? Yeah, each to their own

Kings. KFFL-53SL on front and KFRL-68SSL on rear. On mine (F6 rspec) I only noticed a small difference in ride height from the stock springs (~1 cm on front and ~2 on rear) but now it's much stiffer which I prefer. The shocks might be an issue though because I nearly bounced off the road twice on the way home. I'm going to check what PSI the tyres are at and if not already I'll reduce them to ~35. Then I'll leave it two weeks and if I'm still bouncing around on the road I might throw some different shocks at it.

Thanks. Now I just need some damn black wheel nuts... Rims cost $3200. Offset's below. I'm also running their recommended tyre size. Front: Rear:

4 weeks later the BBS CH-R rims landed from Germany. If anyone wants a set of CH's (not CH-R) ring Bowen Hills Jaq Quick Fit.

While you MAY NOT (lol...) recommend it detailers the world over do, specially for people who want a show car shine without breaking out a polisher every time you see a swirl. If you don't want to use a glaze then that's ok but just live with the swirls until your next polish. Breaking out the polisher for every swirl will prematurely thin your clearcoat (eg. Burn through) which means a respray. As for being fake you wouldn't even notice.

After one week with the bulge I'm not sure I want to keep it. It's a genuine steel Ford bonnet in perfect condition. What would be a reasonable asking price for it if I was to flog it off...?

LOL - Who are you to say "detail the car properly or not at all..."...? You just posted one of the most expensive car wash solutions known to man just because you googled that it doesn't remove wax, when most of what people would already be using achieves the same thing. I note your SHOUT that you do not recommend a glaze too and I don't know who you are to think that people would listen like you're saying its the final say. I'm NO ONE in the world of detailing but if people would like to listen to logic here you go: Practicality wise it is impossible to polish out every single swirl mark as they appear over time on most non-show car vehicles, which is where glaze 'can' come in. Freaks white paint is one of the easiest colours to maintain so maybe he doesn't notice, but on my black paint (one of the hardest) I do. "THE PROCESS" is typically to polish (paint correction) the vehicle and then down the track use a glaze in between doing the next polish. You wouldn't simply use a glaze from the start with not doing any paint correction at all. This is a common process used by detailing nuts the world over, mainly because if you were to do as Freak suggests and pull out your polisher every time you see a swirl (etc) you WILL prematurely wear through the clearcoat and penetrate the colour coat - especially if you're using a rotary and not a RO (random orbital). This is called burn-through which means you need a complete respray (yes its expensive) the panel or the entire vehicle. Detailing is all about minimising damage to the clearcoat regardless of whether its the elements or surface contaminants, OR yourself. The aim to to take as little clearcoat as possible to yield maximum results. I'm lucky though because mines a weekender (at most) so I typically polish and seal and then top with wax every 2 months. That's it for 2 years until I polish again. For some though a glaze very much has a place in their detailing cabinet. If you don't want to use a glaze then cool. All I'm saying is don't listen to this guy and breakout the polisher every time you see a swirl or marring. Just live with it until you're next 12/24 month polish comes up. DETAIL PROPERLY OR NOT AT ALL :sungum: LOL - you recommended one of the most expensive products for car wash - hardly basic... Maybe you're underestimating the intelligence of some of your fellow forum members - just a little...? We are talking about paint correction here - eg. removing clearcoat from what is typically peoples second most expensive investment. It's SERIOUS STUFF... If you or they just want to jump in and trash their paint based on some guys need to post and not make it "complicated" then go right ahead.

Sealant and wax are completely different (eg. Durability, finish appearance, application, etc). I'd suggest using an IPA like product like CarPro Eraser to completely remove any other products and cleanse the paint. I'd suggest that you polish every year at the most but more like every 2. Then in between use a filler or glaze about every 3-6 months to fill in any small swirl marks that appear. This will be more manageable, not to mention save your paint from premature burn-through. I typically top (LSP) with a sealant and then top that with a wax, because I like the durability of the sealant but the look of a wax.

Don't go swissvax if you're just starting out especially as a wash. Get some Megs Gold Class car wash. It holds it's own against the others, and not an area I'd suggest spending more dollars on. I have a paint thickness gauge (aka PTG) but in all honesty you don't need one. They're really used by pros to tell whether a cars had paint work done, and are extremely difficult to use on a factory paint job because your paint thickness varies over your car so much. Remember they measure in "microns". Again - don't spend your dollars in this area either. As someone said before you don't need to clay after you've polished. The claying removes larger surface contaminants so you're not polishing them into your paint inducing more damage. That being said you will induce "some" marring simply by claying but that's ok because your polish will take them out. Beware of any shop that uses a one step process to wax and polish your car (one at Bowen hills Brisbane). They will damage your paint and you won't notice until the wax breaks down and you can see it. Very deceitful... In my mind detailing is all about preparation, so don't be in a rush to get to the LSP (last stage product) stage. Also, researching what you're doing can be the best part. I'm about to do another detail on my car and I've been planning it for around 4 weeks... Beware it's very addictive,

Mines in the shop at the moment getting repaired and resprayed (silhouette). Goes on tomorrow so will post up some pics. Still not sure how long it will stay on the car.

F6 front bar is nicer than the GT one. Subtle differences. Same place sells them.

A few weeks ago I ordered some BBS-CHR rims (8.5/9.5 stagger) from Jax Quick Fit at Bowen Hills. There was a hick-up along the way and CH's were ordered/fitted instead, so now I'm running these until my CH-R's arrive. Tires are 245/35/19 275/30/19...

I looked into getting an engineering place near the coast to make me a pair so I could run fatter 19" rears, but just wasn't worth it once I added in a donor pair, etc. My advice is give up like I did and go spend less muhney on nicer after market rims that will also make your car more unique and possibly lighter. Dark agents are so done to death.

This car is ghastly. Who the hell have they got designing these cars?

Grey might be less in your face...

While I've been waiting on Taleb I've changed my mind and think I'm going to run this stagger. Will the 285s be ok on a 2007 F6 (rSpec) with soon to be fitted low and super low kings?

Surely he knows a supplier or something... This is just absolutely insane... lol...

I'm about to pull the trigger on some BBS CH-Rs in matte black. It's either them or the Vertini Magic Concaves. For the sake of the thread I think I should go BBS. FFS it must be the only rim worm hasn't tried yet... Decisions - Ahhhhh....

I bought a slightly dented Ford genuine V8 bonnet off egay today for $250. Too cheap to pass up. Can't wait for the slight change.

Are you saying there's vibration...? Bonnet's shouldn't be vibrating.

TALEB PM'd.

Guys - I'm in Brisbane and after a quote on 19" BBS Black Editions (8.5/9.5). Can someone recommend a supplier to talk to?

Mmm black. Yep, our cars look the best... for the 5 minutes they're clean...! Here's mine after my last detail (approx. total 16 hours) around 2 years ago. I'm about to do it again in a few months so I'll post up my process, etc. The guys over at Detail Paradise know their sh*t, and just a word of warning a lot of people don't.

Emailed... Will report back.