kb351

I'm in the process of collecting gear for my FG ute prior to tuning and so far have PW Stage 1 Intercooler kit, Herrod Air Box, Crow Valve springs and Venom Cat Pipe. Wanting to keep std exhaust for now. I'm hoping to get to about 300rwkw. When should I get the valve springs done, along with the rest of the gear, all at once when I first get the car tuned, or is it a waste of time at this power level and I should just hold off on the valve springs and only get them done if there is problems later on if I have drama's or if I am chasing more power later on... Also do the better valve springs allow the tuner to chase more power so get them done first up anyway?

Yep - beer is always a good thing....

Cheers for that!

Just a quick one. I've got the bits and pieces from my typhoon intercooler, air intake, cooler, piping etc. Is there much point trying to sell that stuff off? Or should I just throw it out? My car was written off before xmas so cleaning junk out of shed. No point keeping it all...

Dobinsons Sport Coils C19-392, not sure how much lower that actually is though - had standard leaves reset to match the height of the front springs and level it. Not the clearest pic but a side on view and a pic before the car had the wheels and was lowered.

Haha full of typos! Good grief! 20X8.5 front 32 Offset, 245/35/20 tyres. 20X10 rears 35 Offset 275/30/20 tyres. Your car looks good by the way, Nitro seems to suit just about any combination of wheels! White is a good look.

Fg Ute 20X8.5 front 32 Offset, 245/35/19 tyres. 10X10 rears 35 Offset 275/20 tyres. Thanks again for the help!

Shout out to ptr_nitro & bamk2F6tornado, got the wheels and tyres fitted - also lowered the Ute. Very happy - thanks to you blokes for putting my mind at rest with the wheels/fitment.

Cheers Camo. The plan is not stock for too long, just getting started on a few, hopefully, simple things I can do myself.

Hi guys, as the title says I am thinking about replacing the intercooler piping on an otherwise stock FG. Is it likely that I could run into any problems such as over boost etc? Cheers.

After having a lowered Typhoon, I'm enjoying not having to take a huge amount of care parking up to kerbs going over speed jumps etc so I'm not in a rush to go lower on the ute. Eliminating a bit of the wheel arch gap can only help with the looks of the car.

Thanks bamk2 Not sure if I want a huge gap 4wd style haha! I'm happy though if everything clears all the steering/suspension and doesn't foul on the guards. Also allows me scope to go lower a bit later on. Cheers!

Not too sure if this has all been asked before but anyway here goes... I have an FG Ute Will 20x8.5" rims +32 offset front with 245/35/20 tyres and 20x10" rims +35 offset rears with 275/30/20 tyres fit without any clearance problems? I am running standard height and may go to "SL" height later on would those offsets and rim/tyre combo create any problems later on with the lower ride hight? cheers guys!

Haha! Point taken Mr Wiggum. I'm a notorius tight arse, so looks like Steves suggestion of a low dust set on the back might be the go ahead of a full 4 pot Brembo set-up. Cheers Guys

Apparently not, the listing on their web-site looks like exclusively Brembo for the FPV line-up and then standard fare pads for the rest.

Gavin from project Mu got back to me today, they dont do the rears so I have ordered a set for the front. Thanks again for the help!

Cheers! I'll give him a try tomorrow.

Hi All, I'm doing the rotors and pads for my BF Typhoon. Currently has standard from factory Brembo front rotors and 4 pot Calipers with Single rear PBR caliper and rotor. Is it right that these DBA replacement rotors are OK? front - 42102 T3 and rear 42108 xs. I want to run the Project Mu Ns400 pads but aren't sure, the fronts look like they would be F1040 but I cant see which ones would suit the rears? I'm guessing Ralph could wade in on this one?

Hey Phil, thanks for posting this all up, apart from it being a really interesting read, my seat belt jammed up the day before I read this, so your guide has made the fix an easy one for me!

Thanks, The DVD player has now stopped working and I have been driving the car a bit today and the ticking has not reoccurred so that seems to be pretty much the cause of the problem.

Definitely not the fan, that was the first thing I fiddled with, turned air off and it didn't change anything. Yeah, any suggestions to locating/resolving, is it possible that it would be behind the ICC, or just that it could be anywhere? The clicking sounds almost like a relay going off/on...

Hi All, Yesterday when driving to work, there was a weird ticking noise coming, from what seemed behind the ICC. It started erratically ticking (a few ticks slowly sometimes, then faster). Then the ticking became very rapid. I didn't have the radio on at all and in the process of trying different things (basically pushing buttons) when I turned the radio on, the radio channels were all dropping in an out, (not quite in time with the ticking). The blue-tooth hands free was working fine and the Cd player was also OK. After about 2 minutes everything came good. Then, later on that night, after driving home, parked the car and the rapid ticking came back (didn't do it erratically this time). It went for about 20 seconds and stopped. I have an aftermarket DVD player in the roof where the factory cabin light would usually sit and that was flickering as well. It might have done that first time around but because it was daylight when I was going to work, I wouldn't have picked up if it was doing that. Any suggestions before I start pulling the dash apart to look at connections on the ICC?

Hey! Thanks so much for this tip! My sons car had the worst bore water stains on his windows - tried everything to get it off and almost wore my arm out trying! Used Spot x and it came off with so little effort I couldn't believe it!

My Bf F6 pulled 243rwkw when dyno'd near new at XFT