straughsberry

Broom broom. Ooops I just made 600rwkw.

Yeah I was Spiko. But back then they were just called 'Weapon' coils which suited the car. Pat, I attempted to use the Tzatziki injection l8r that evening but didn't make it into the Tzatziki surge tank and unfortunately it spilled everywhere. I ended up burning a valve so some head work was needed. While I was at it, a port and polish was done as well. I also took the opportunity to check the tappet clearance with my feeler gauge and I used the reamer to give the bore a nice finish. At the end of the day, she was purring like a kitten.

I took my stock V6 Magna to 7200 rpm in the wet once.

Wot he said Interesting combo on the FG. Also, the 3582 (or the NiResist rear housing) has a sightly larger wastegate port/flapper (a mm or two) from memory.

What a run. Crazy power from 3 litres or so. Litre for litre, this would have to be one of the most powerful engines in the world. Hats off

Yeah black usually means running rich. But it should be accompanied by a smell. And not the type after you get after eating Burritos. But seriously, it blows the black smoke at around 3500 and then farts and carries on a bit out the exhaust? Sounds like a cam angle sensor. Have you checked them? Drivers side in particular. It gets cooked on that side due to turbo heat.

A bit of news. Good news. Valves are in production so they shouldn't be too far away at all. Then we can finish off the head and put it all together. Getting closer...

BF has provision for 2 knock sensors. You don't have to use the second. BF cams are slightly different and as mentioned almost correctly, the inlet and exhaust cams can be controlled independently but this is a feature of the ECU rather than the physical motor. I'm fairly sure thems the differences.

Cam angle sensor on exhaust side?

I've run both of these tyres with 370rwkw. The 452's seem a little more positive and solid in dry cornering and are a little harder wearing than the T1R. IMHO, that's the only advantage they have over the Toyo's. The Toyo's are better in the wet and definitely hook up better in a straight line. They're also much quieter and display little to no tram-lining as they wear. The 452's got noisy and began tram-lining once they started wearing. Grip comes with a sacrifice - tyre life. I'm pretty sure the Toyo's are a softer compound than the 452's and they didn't last as long. I am now on my second set of T1R's. I wouldn't buy 452's again after using the T1R's.

Just a bit ay.

...yes! Vote 1, Hellenic Republic. I just gave away a fee plug and I didn't know it.

When these use to be 7% alcohol, they were my go-to drink. I like the WT & Dry and I'd shove a slice or two of lime in them. Ahhh memories....

Sorry to hear mate. I went through the same thing after owning my car for 2 weeks with 55k km on the clock - bent 2 rods and ruined the block. I initially went down the F6 short motor path because at the time, it suited my budget and my desired power levels. But 1.5 years later, I started wanting more and went down the built motor path. Initially, I was getting a shop to do the work and my budget was around 20k for under bonnet work only. A few months later, I wanted to go a little further with it and my budget became 50k including the drive train. I think you need to look at 2 or 3 main things. Are you planning on doing much 1/4 mile stuff, how much power do you think you want to make and what is your budget? Answering these things will dictate what to do I reckon. I think for the high 300's rwkw, an F6 short (add valve springs and billet oil pump gears) with a 'safe' tune and well maintained, can last you years. Of course, doing regular 1/4 mile work with an F6 short on higher power levels will change that. Going the F6 short could cost you as little as the 6k mark depending on who and what you know. Building a forged bottom end will add a few k to that depending on what you do.

Another monster. I'm no where near this level in my own project, but I can certainly appreciate the effort required by many people to make this happen. Well done to all involved.

That got me thinking... These guys have been going since the late 60's. They give me a musical boner. The following presenation is from a live recording circa a few years ago. Brought to you by Groove Inc. with a capital S

Group hug.

I went the F6 short route a couple of years ago. Tuned to 370rwkw, it has been reliable and runs very nice. Depending on your budget and how much power you think you'd be happy with, you may want to do rods and pistons. If you plan to stick to the high 300's, it's been proven an F6 short can be reliable with a 'safe tune' for a few years if you look after it. Definitely do oil pump gears and even better, get a modified pump from Atomic. Last time I checked, BA blocks are about $750 and BF around $1100. You could use your old crank and use forged rods and pistons. A head reco can go from $1500-$2500 depending on what you get done. You don't need bigger head studs for high 300's but getting new ones is a must. I'd be using new studs and bolts on exhaust and turbo as well. Again, I think you should look at your budget and go from there because that will dictate what power levels you'll have to build your motor for. If you need rods and pistons, give me a pm. I have a couple of sets left of Mahle Powerpak pistons (same as Atomic use and Spiro has used in his current 1000+rwhp F6) and Argo rods left over from when I bought them for my big-banger build (I bought extra sets to get them cheaper).

Full sik uleh.

Yep. That's the whole point of compounding. Best of both worlds.

While the Ford unit is based on the 3582, it is not a Garret GT3582r! Go and buy a Ford 3540 and a Garrett 3582 and tell me they're the same There are differences.

I kind of agree that a normal twin setup is probably a waste of money. But a compound setup is very different to a parallel setup. It has the advantages of both a small and large turbo. IE, great spool and big power all the way to redline. In a compound setup, the exhaust gases feed directly into the small turbo. The small turbo feeds into the large turbo. When the small turbo reaches a pre-set boost level, a wastegate diverts exhaust gases around the small turbo and into the large turbo. So it's like a single turbo that changes size automagically. Biggest cons would be cost. Complicated piping, complicated setup and you'd need a little extra room. Some of those tractor pull guys use a compound setup running 4 turbos making 200+ psi.

I try to be as transparent as possible. If my experience can benefit the forum community in even a small way, then I'm happy. Glad you're enjoying it. Cheers and thanks Blake.

Thanks! Reliability as a daily driver is definitely where it's at for me mate. Still waiting on the valves for at least another 2 weeks. After that I'll probably wait a further 2 weeks, then I need to make a call on whether or not I need to enforce the contingency plan! Problem is, the contingency plan will double the cost of the valve. Though it will be full custom valve. But does the cost ensure reasonable benefits? That is the question My long motor will cost me around the 18k mark in parts and build. I've spent 11k in parts so far and will need to spend 6 or 7 more to get to where I want to be. And I am using some Atomic products mate, don't you worry I'm going down a different path with a few aspects of my build. It is a journey after all. To try and answer your question: There's a team of 5 or 6 people who are behind this build . And they are all integral to it even being completed. My personal budget is 50k of (which I've spent $26,950.52) but there's also 10's of thousands of dollars in both free time and trade pricing being put into it as well. If you had to pay normal retail rates and labour for what I've done/need to complete, you could probably spend $80,000-$100,000 dollars. You need to look at your budget and work out where to go from there I reckon.

Forget the plenums uleh's. Lets talk Tabouhli vs Tsatsiki injection.