norrs

Checked for leaks bodgy style but none found

yes you are dong it wrong. screw it right in till it seals. if it is screwed right in and doesn't seal then you need to put shims in. I installed mine today and needed 4 washers to get it closed.

I hope this isn't a stupid Question. I understand what the difference is between normal and performance mode before a ZF tune but what about after one? What's the difference? Any point in shifting to Performance after a tune? can the tune be set up to say have the car shift normally in "normal/Adaptive mode" and only shift at say 6000 revs in "performance mode"? PS - On the subject of stupid questions: I almost posted a question about gremlins in my car causing it to change radio stations and the beeping noise when locking the car. Thankfully today I worked out that the difference was that each time it happened I had changed keys!!!!

1. Datsun 200B (learned to drive in this between home and bus stop. was never registered but drove it for 3 years) 2. 1981 SSS Datsun Stanza - First car I ever purchased. Loved that car to bits 3. 1985 VK Late model camira Station Wagon. Drove around Australia with the Ex in it when I was 19. Got stolen. 4. 1989 Single cab 2wd Hilux Ute. The 22R engine just never died. Car took me everywhere fishing and camping 5. 1994 Camry (ex girlfriend took this one in the separation leaving me with the ute) 6. 2006 XR6T - Fricken awesome 7. 2006 Prado 120 Series decked out with all off road gear. Still own it for weekends 8. 2009 Hyundai I30cx diesel, the economical family car. Wife drives this the most. 9. 2010 FPV F6 Daily driver

Well I see no one has bitten the bullet yet I'm still keen on the Aquamist HFS-3 however I want to make sure I can get it to work. It appears that I would need to tap into the ECU wiring (scary). It seems much more invasive then systems that are triggered by boost. Wouldn't tapping into the MAP wire reduce voltage and cause issues? I also need to get my head around working out the correct jets to order, it looks complicated: See: http://howertonengineering.com/tech-info/calculating-jetting/ Anyway this is what I was thinking of getting: Get the unit here: http://www.howertonengineering.net/aquamist-hfs-3-injection-system/ One of these tanks: http://www.howertonengineering.net/products/2-Gallon-Twin-Tank-Enclosure.html A weld bug to mount jet: http://www.howertonengineering.net/products/Aluminum-Weld-Bung.html

Yeah I checked the other day. Everything looked fine. All clamps tight, unless there is a hole down low if rubbing. I'm assuming boost leaks are just visually checked, or should I put the garden hose in the intake and see if it leaks (joking)

I see. It was about 19 and now it is about 17 psi. Is that just heat or am I losing boost somehow

Sorry I have no idea what that means? Edit: ok read up on it now so I know what you mean but I still don't know which method he used.

Ok so since mods finished on my car in February this year had it on three dynos Cv for a tune Bta for a tune Then got it checked in Darwin for a power run to check it was ok in our weather Frickin 53 Rwkw loss!!! Dude up here said it was running a but lean for our heat. He suggested I send my xcal to bta to have them adjust it. 53!!!!

Hey Butt Plug, tried to send you a PM re the Ad but it says you can receive any new messages.

I bags you buy it first and if it fits I'll get one Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

$150 shipping for a aquamist without any tank!! I hate international shipping rates. Dude I spoke to in the uk via email isn't too friendly wouldn't answer any questions and wouldn't make any jet recommendations. Worries me about aftermarket service. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Yep I'm about. Good to see some activity in this thread Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

I have an fg and my Aircon is sh*t. Compressor doesn't kick in half the time. Common problem apparently Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Ok Ralph, here is another less catastrophic cheap solution: As per interesting discussion on: http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php/344686-Water-Meth-Injection-PWM-vs-PPS

Same here, was thinking snow stage 3 was attractive till I saw these mob. Problem is that it looks much more complicated to install and when it isn't just controlled by boost, then it gets scary!

Yeah I got one a couple years back. It towed the boat around for over half an hour before we landed it. Towed us upstream against the tide. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Hi I have one of those obdii things but so far all I have done is hook it up to the torque app for fun. I'm not sure what software is best to data log it was all a bit confusing to me. I'll have to do a bit more reading. I changed the thermostat on my old car but not on my current one. I was about to a couple of weeks back but then I read on here that it can f*ck with the tune (or something) so I chickened out. Btw can you post a bigger pic of your profile pic I wanna check out that fish. I reckon I have an almost identical pic

What's the point of trans temp. We all have trans coolers and it gets frickin hot! I know that. But if it gets too hot am I supposed to stop driving? It is a noob question as this is my first car as an automatic. I kind of assumed that Unless you get a milkshake, you just drive the zf's till they start get clunky or noisy and only then do you look at it.

Ok Wal is out of stock for the fuel pressure for fpv one. I was keen for that due to a recent issue with my pump. He has an EGT in stock. Two questions how useful are these in practice? And how hard to install the sender. I assume it will be in dump pipe and that I can't piggy back it into O2 sensor hole

Well I'm going to go with the TEA one Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Na full sweep electric are $250-$300

Ok I've read all I can and have got to the point where need to decide between Autometer Cobalt or Top End Audio Gauges. I can get Oil Pressure, Fuel Pressure and Boost for both brands for about $1,000 with the triple gauge holder. Both seem to be made in the USA. They both have the right colour though the TEA has a warning light. TEA gauges come with 5 year warranty on the senders, which I think exceeds the Cobalt ones. However the Autometer come with a great reputation. I don't know much about the TEA longevity. What is peoples thoughts. I just want something that I can install and know it will work. I had Ozigauges in my old car though I had no end of trouble with the Oil Pressure sender. I went through three of them.

yeah its been talked about and tried to be organised before. just never happens.

Hey Kim. I was talking about transport costs for the car. Only one company would ship to Darwin due to the clearance of the f6, only ceva. And $2000 a pop Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD