luckyboyd

I have pirelli pzero nero's and 290rwkws. I bought a set for $900 235/45 r17. I had two newish dunlop sp3000's on the rear before and the pirelli's are a decent step up. If you get the p zero nero's run 40psi in them, they will wear evenly and steer fantastic.

Man, what a spaz thread this has turned into. I think we should all get back on our medication.

wheels tested over the weekend at lang lang. Standard xr6t 13.3 1/4mile.

rb74's are good. Plenty of black dust to let you know they are working. All good pads will dirty your front wheels, if you don't want dust, put the covers back on.

Mate I'm 34 and drive within the rules most of the time, thing is you just can't help yourself, wait and see. If the tuner tweaked the auto to make faster shifts it will be fine. Injectors are probably at their limit so if you want more grunt you will need newies.

the one I'm a bit scared about is a benz with the 6.3 ltr in it, anyone know how quick those beasts go?

mine does the forward slash /// really well

Cats are all the same on the inside. Surface area is what counts. Substrate is substrate. I have seen half dozen cut open and all use the same insides. Obviously the more surface area the better the flow.

got a price on michelin pp2 235/45R17 $270 a corner which was cheaper than I thought. The bloke on the other side of the desk thought the goodyear gsd3 would be better for grip. He didn't rate the dunlop for grip (quoting magazine tests) but they are good for turn in etc.

who was the sorry doof doof who asked for advice on coolers. Got his money worth didn't he.

I think you'll blow your budget but option 1 is the go.

I'll get some prices

deny deny deny. Cats do collapse from time to time. The substrate also becomes inactive over time. If you get done all you get is a fail reading and you go buy a newie and fit it. No great drama

no worries in my book. Backpressure has been reduced so you will run leaner but factory tunes are super rich anyway. So long as you take it easy, meaning no dragging or prolonged full throttle you can still drive 'spirited until it hits the dyno. Post the AFR up so we can all see how lean it was running, many would be interested. My guess is it's gone from low10's to maybe 12. Most tuners dyno WOT to low 12's. If you're concerned run 98 octane. This will assist in preventing detonation.

The best cat is the gutted cat. Get your local exhaust shop to remove and if they wont empty the insides out and refit it for $100 go somewhere else. Another way is go to the wreckers and take it home and do it yourself. Take your DIY hi flow cat to the exhaust shop and they should swap them over for $50. Most cats would be stuffed in 12mths if your running around 300rwkw. So long as it looks standard from outside you wont get into trouble with the law.

I always thought michelin used 'sport' for their high performance tyres. I haven't looked for a while I'll admit. I read somewhere that porsche used sport cup tyres as standard on one of their RS models and work a treat in the dry at least. If I upgrade to 18" what tyres would you recommend

I thought the standard dunlop3000a were ok until 230rwkw turned into 310rwkw. Now they are rubbish. Does anyone know for the same tyre does 17 or 18 make a difference to straightline grip?

I need more grip too. The standard dunlop sp3000a are spinning like crazy(310rwkws) I'm running 235/45 R17. The local beaurepaires dealer thought either dunlop sport maxx or goodyear f1 GSD3. both priced @ $265 ea Any thoughts would be appreciated. Double banger post Has anyone tried toyo proxes r spec?

I've had generic tunes for a couple of months. I haven't dynoed them but others get 220rwkws with 8psi and 230 odd with 10psi or maybe a little more. With street tyres there is not that much left before wheelspin becomes an issue. I'm only going to go to around 280rwkws and have a tune to go back to on rainy days, maybe 200rwkws or similar to standard and another one in between. Things should stay together at this level.

[quote name='madmaximus' post='527791' date='May 1 2007, 09:53 PM']What about a group buy on a Nizpro Stage 1 kit??? I would be interestesed and I know one of the guys at work would be so that is already 2 people. What does everyone else think???[/quote] i'd be in on that

try ING $720 in inner Melb and parked on the street. RACV quoted $1080, AAMI $790. I'm 34 yr old. Best of luck

dont add ethanol to E10 98. Basically E10 98 is 96 octane with 10% ethanol. Adding 10% ethanol to bp ultimate/shell vpower which have no ethanol will give close to 100octane. Bunnungs probably have ethanol. They might call it ethyl alcohol. Should be somewhere near the metholated spirits. It wont help economy but who cares.

if its not a chip then maybe its a dim sim???

I work in an oil refinery and know the fuel qualities that make a difference to street performance. Octane relates to burn characteristics. The higher the octane, the slower the burn. If you don't alter ignition timing there will be no difference to performance. Higher octane allows you to run more ignition advance before detnation occurs. Detonation is when the fuel starts combusting before the spark has been created. Olefin content is the biggest factor in creating low down power. Unfortunately the government has a limit on olefin content in petrol. All 98 octane petrol is blended to just comply with this spec. Dont use toluene as an additive. It is a solvent and will harm any rubber in the fuel system much faster than petrol. If you want to increse octane, use ethanol. It is cheap and wont harm anything. Its funny that petrol that contains ethanol is considered a cheaper alternative to 'pure' petrol when shell's 100 octane petrol contains 5% ethanol and they charge and extra 15c per litre over standard unleaded. I've typed enough but am happy to answer any questions you might have