xf_turbo

I agree with gravelrash, looks like a sump plug. Amazing it didnt fall off while driving though. I would have thought the first bump would send it flying.

I would guesstimate with the others and say the spluttering is the exhaust. Good to see 130,000 and still going strong

Dont encourage them mate. I think anyone who drifts in the wet or anyne who drifts on the streets full stop should have their car and liscense confiscated. Recently saw a Late model camira drift around a corner and ended up ploughing through a bunnings carpark. Changed my view on that subject forever.

Is the car alarm still activated if you lock the doors with key?

At least someone is making use of all the Ballast Resistors left over from the 70's

Similar thing happened to me. It was the TPS out of calibration. Try holding the accelerator flat to the floor and crank the engine over. It shouldnt start. Then start the car as normal. That fixed it for me. Hope it helps Joel

Normal mate mine does the same. Hate to say it but is just sounds like you ran to low on fuel. I work for RAA and late model cars when they run out of fuel can still idle ok but as soon as you raise the RPM then cant supply enough fuel. Not long after I picked the car up new I was pulling up to the lights put the clutch in and it stalled on its own. I did start again right away however but has not done it since. Oh yeah and I wouldnt take any mechanical advice from a tow truck driver All the best, Joel

Sounds to me like an earthing problem. You may need a repair manual and patience to locate all the earths for interior. And I'd be checking all earths under bonnet also. One common problem with a lot of cars that gets overlooked initially is the ignition and associated connectors around drivers feet / steering column. They can become disslodged over time. that's where I would be starting, hope you get it sorted soon!

Sounds great I'm in! Group 4 ( with the BA XR6T )

Hi everyone, I've been reading the thread about factory sub replacement and decided to give my stereo in the T a small upgrade. I only have the basic sound system which leaves me behind the 8 ball to start with but so far I have installed Clarion 5 x 7's in the back. I have bought the JBL GTO 804 8" sub today. So that can go in the factory hole in the parcel shelf. I've been searching eBay for an amp and found this one but the specs dont mean a whole deal to me so I was hoping you guys would be able to explain it to me or just let me know if it will do the job. Any help would be great Its a 2nd hand Kenwood 4 ch, specs from kenwood site are below. The sub as most of you would already know is 200w RMS 4 ohm impedance and the Clarion 5 x 7s are 150w So Would this amp be powerfull enough to run the sub and the two rears? I'm not after anything ear drum popping just want a bit more bass and a nice factory look. eBay Item Number : 220191485496 Thanks, JOEL KAC-746 4-Channel Power Amplifier Max. power output 70W X 4 (4Q) 35W x 4 at 4Q 14.4V (0.08% THD) RMS power output - 50W X 4 at 1Q 14.4V (0.8% THD) RMS power output Variable input sensitivity (0.15 to 4V) Built in Variable Low-pass filter (50Hz - 20QHz) Built in Variable High-pass filter (50Hz - 200Hz) Gold Plated Input / Output Terminal Tri-mode operation Protection Indicator Power MOSFET Switching Power Supply

There is no way you are going to hear a piece of plastic moving around inside an engine. If it is inside the engine it will be at the bottom of the sump. Dont stress you will be fine. My cap broke at 20,000km but it happened when I was uncrewing it so I just plucked it out. It probably happened when Ford removed it and there would be no way they would tell you about it.

I think it is a built in feature to promote smoother gear changes. A bit like the old 'dashpot' device on the nissan carby's

Do you start the car up cold, move it a short disctance then turn it off. eg moving it so missus can get out? They have common problem with cams getting stuck while cold. Fix it so have foot to floor while cranking. Or to aviod, let engine idle for a bit or warm up before shutting it off.

Ahh I cant stand the thought of HKS components being used on a Falcon. HKS turbos are renowned for lacking turbo map information so sizing one of these had always been try it and see how it performs. Sorry guess I just have it in for the aftermarket jap performance parts. I just have this image of a T with big 'HKS' 'TRUST' and 'GREDDY' stickers all over it. PS, I voted stupid and a waste of time but if you wanna do something different ( which it sound like that's waht you want to achieve ) go for it mate! This would be it! But please use Garrett turbos!

They do a black machined finish here is the pic, you might be interested Oh and the damage was $2280 inc Marshall tyres, fitting, balancing and wheel nuts Check out the website http://www.bsawheels.com.au

As far as I know they are different manufacturers but yeah they do look almost the same. Hadnt seen HP wheels until just now.

Agreed, I've got pedders lowered legal spring now but I'm gonna get them reset. Does anyone know what it should cost to have some coils reset? I'll do the removal and install myself.

Thanks mate! I know its crazy this is the average size now. Whats next

Just got these BSA - 264's 19 x 8 fitted to the T yesterday. What do ya rekon? I love em! Oh yeah I know its missing the centre cap decal BSA forgot to send them with the wheels so they are on their way.

Make sure when you are checking the current draw you wait 5 mins after you have shut the door, probably pay to lock it also bacause the PCM stays active along with power windows etc for a few mins. But I have heard the BA's have high current draw from factory. Just so many electrical components are active for user friendlyness. But leaving any new car for 3 to 4 weeks you will probably find the battery is quite flat

I've got an AFR guage ( led one ) and they dance around 90% of the time. Only sits on rich at full throttle or heavy load. I'm actually thinking of replacing it with oil temp. Mine is autometer cobolt and cant see the lights during daylight.

They would have put the BOVs on these cars to keep the government happy for noise emissions

WOW just bought my flash tuner from KPM adelaide today for $595, loaded the 8psi tune and I cant believe the difference!!! Why didnt I get this earlier! I dont know how you guys drive with 300kw +. Let the mods roll in