Sly_Bastard

I just had my oil changed and they were meant to do the turbo supply filter but they didn't. I have a sandwich plate for my gauges but my question is can you change the turbo oil filter without having to change the actual oil filter or oil??

heres a pic of em

They work not, im just a special sometimes If I get time ill put the Ford body on it and do another burnout!!! If people want.

This is me doing a burnout and donuts with my modifed rc car. I converted it to rear wheel drive and put on the burnout tyres!!!! JEKJh0zntXI qThj-jFh5PY This car is a beast. Electric brushless!!! Who says you need GAS

LOL 2 problems with that. Im too lazy and QLD water restrictions mean I cant really polish the car as cant clean it properly :( Im probably just using water restrictions a an excuse for problem A.

I agree, I like the look of it better now, especially the side skirts. Eucalyputus oil worked well for the adhersive but as I have a white car there was dark grim the oil couldnt take off. So carefully used the alcohol swabs to get rid of the really bad grim as not getting a cut and polish for a bit. For some reason had really bad grim. You could tell I had taken off the badges and could still read it in the paint. Not sure but QLD weather and water restictions might have had something to do with it. Now you cant tell I ever had badges. :fear (5):

All good. I improvised, use Eucalyptus oil to get rid of the easy stuff and used alcoholic swabs to get rid of the really resilient grim (damn white cars). Only probelm now is my car smells like a tree. :fear (5):

I just debadged mine, easy as. Got all the glue off but what is the best way to make the paink look aggo. I got a white XR6T and you can see where the badges were. What can I use to make the paint look good or should I have a professional cut and polish the whole car??? :fear (5):

Get the Ford Dealer to put it in writing at least. They cannot void your warrenty because you used a different mechanic (this is not true for a second hand car warrenty which I am pritty sure specifies that you need to use a certain dealer). Just make sure you have had a qualified mechanic fix it. If they have rejected you claim without properly explaining or for proper reasons it would be a breach of contract. If they continue to refuse your warrenty just go to court, file a Summons of Liquidated Claim. People think going to court costs a lot but if you do it yourself it can be cheap. Will cost you like 100 bucks depending on your state (if you lodge a SLC you do need quotes and invoice, your log book properly signed and a copy of your ford service contact or book outlining your terms). You can have a person serve it or you can do it yourself. Walk into the Dealer and provide them with your Summons and then see what they do. At the very least would be worth the 100 buck just to see their face . If you need any help just call legal aid and ask them a few questions. Im sure if you did this they would be very helpful with your turbo issue and with any further issues in the future. I reckon the $100 gamble would be worth it to get all your money back

Here is a review by the age of LCD versus Plasma. Including some models being compared. http://www.theage.com.au/news/reviews/keep...=rss_technology I personally have a Panasonic Viera TH42PX70A, I got it for $2 grand a while ago, store price is about $2400 now but you can get the same tv but just made in China, identical parts but minus some features Panasonic Viera TH42PX7A for under 2 grand. Im still waiting for a review to be posted by Iconic Bionic so I thought Id put one up http://www.cnet.com.au/tvs/plasma/0,239035...39280090,00.htm

I would not get LCD, get a plasma. You wont need 1080P as you are only running a XBOX 360. LCD's are good had a Hitachi 32in, but I upgraded to a 42in Panasonic Plas. I would go a Plasma any day, colours are better and picture quality is way ahead!!! You could get the Pana 42in plas for around $1800, it is one of the best and the best quality versus price plasma tv out there. Go to DTV forum they are really helpful.

Get it looked at by an auto electrician. I had the same prob but also other probs including my earth wire being loose. Apparently the fords Falcons both BA and BF have a few common problems in relation to grounding. Well that's what I heard from a couple of auto electrician and they can cause other problems including bad fuel econ and stuffed AF ratios in certain cases!!!!

Who you askin this of???? But yes I do get the idea of why technically it would be benificial to have a low level thermostat. But I was just putting my 2c in as there seemed to be a misconception on as to what a theremostat did. Also my big post was just disputing what the link stated as I though some of the underlying ideas were incorrect. Im sorry if this question was not directed at me

I read the links and I would have to say DO NOT BUY THAT BOOK!!!! They have no clue apparently (well that's what I think), they got the idea but they have no clue. They don't even know how it works and why it improves engine life and how different themostats affect cars differently. A thermostat is not an essential part of a car and cars can run without them but they are useful!!!! Firstly, I said the initial use of a thermostat was for cold starts, which is not all they are used for nowadays http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question248.htm "Any liquid-cooled car engine has a small device called the thermostat that sits between the engine and the radiator. The thermostat in most cars is about 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter. Its job is to block the flow of coolant to the radiator until the engine has warmed up. When the engine is cold, no coolant flows through the engine. Once the engine reaches its operating temperature (generally about 200 degrees F, 95 degrees C), the thermostat opens. By letting the engine warm up as quickly as possible, the thermostat reduces engine wear, deposits and emissions." This shows how my idea of why they were brought about is correct!!! This link shows how the application is different nowadays and how they now run compared to old cars http://news.carjunky.com/how_stuff_works/t...ar_abc166.shtml This link explains how they work!!! http://www.theonlinemechanic.com/2007/03/1...ermostat-works/ It states "The thermostat controls the flow of the liquid by opening and closing depending on the temperature of the liquid running through it. The thermostat creates a temporary blockage in the hoses that carry the liquid. Doing this causes the liquid to rise in temperature so that the engine will run more efficiently (an engine runs most efficiently at about 200 degrees Fahrenheit) and your heater will be warm enough to heat your car." So technically the link you provided states "Perhaps it might in northern Canada, but not in Missouri in the middle of the summer. When you remove the thermostat, the coolant never has a chance to stay in the radiator long enough to get rid of its heat. As coolant rushes through the engine and radiator, it just gets hotter and hotter, causing your engine to overheat." This would not be a thermostat problem but it would be a cooling system problem that they would be running too large piping and too large a pump causing the water to be circulated too quickly. Sorry about the long post but just had to get my point accross And technically this would mean that after your car would be warm, the thermostat would be fully open at all times to ensure the engine was properly cooled unless you were in cold weather, which we in Australia would not be worryed about too much!! Too much work this is, Yoda I am. I just did more work then I do at work.

I agree with the senna_T in relation to what the thermostat does in a way but I think it is for different reason. A thermostat is not a necessary part of a car especially in australia. Its purpose initally was to restrict flow of water between the block and radiator. It was for start-up in cold weather. It restricts water going to the radiator to allow your engineto get to operating temp faster. It was for cold countries, Australia not initally being one of them you would guess. Nowadays Id say it is to enable to provide consistency and to enable engines to warm up faster, so you dont have to use a lot of choke. that's what I think anyway, but if you disagree you cann always call my bluff!!!

I have been looking at upgrading the ICC, I got the carppy std one (One disc, blanck & white screen). Ok so the options are to get another ICC with the 6 disc stacker and then get it upgraded to the colour screen (can you get it with a colour screen + 6 stacker already in the ICC??). So another ICC + $1000 for the colour upgrade + postage!!! Or get the dual climate control with the bits and peices about $1500 + install. I really like this one as it look nicer (Can you get the single climate control with the nicer facsia with fewer wiring changes??) So you have the options and for me they look similar for cost but you end up with dual climate in the second option. And yes I have done a search but no one has said which way would be better to go!!!

Car: BA XR6 Turbo Trans: 4 speed auto Power: 245rwkw not bad for a stocker Boost: 9psi Induction: stock Turbo: stock Valve Springs: stock Exhaust: stock Fuel system: stock Power adder: generic edit by RDP

I would go oil pressure and oil temp. Oil temp is good so you know when you should thrash the engine as you can check if the oil/engine is warm.

Ipod are not the best, they are the most popular. If you want the best you would need to look at something like an Iriver.

LOL cant race mine, its too quick. that's the reason that you might think electric are slow. Even in modified you can only run 7.2 volts and a sensored brushless engine. Mine got 11.1 volts and a unsensored brushless engine, so it is past the limits and not allowed to race. Mine would easily keep up if not pass those nitro ones. but I have a problem I cant drive anyway. The whole point of modified is skill not speed, and I kind of lack in the skill department. Agree with Full Monty it can get expensive.

Depends if you go new or second hand and how fast you want. All of my car new would be a couple of thou. Second hand, a couple of thou. LOL Ok new would really be over 4 grand if you count the receivers and remote. Second hand, under 2 grand if you knew exactly what you wanted and where to get it from. Finding the ESC and engine would be the hard part. I got a 120 amp ESC (one big speedie) and engine (4200 rpv, its actually quite small but it has huge amounts of torque) for $300 second hand (out of a off road car, would have been mad in a rear wheel drive off roader) and lucky they worked well together. The gearing in mine is mad, have to downgrade as the spur gear is too small and engine is hittin the belts. My spur gear is only 78 tooth and the pinion is like 35 tooth. My mate tested it and it gets up to 40C free wheelin. Almost had a couple of batteries explode now that's scary!!!! Id tint the windows but that would take effort LOL and need to get it running again. I want to do a speed run, I would say it would make over 100 kmph min easily and want to find out!!! I want to get 14V and a bigger engine and then see how it goes too

No real damage. Just engine screws came out!!! Should be fixed in a day!!!

I had a rc18T and got a mini LST all brushless too!!!! The 1/18 is good but not as much fun as the bigger stuff

Yeah just a little. I got 11.1 Volts goin through it. When it took off in the clip, it was still wheel spinnin, and its 4wd too.