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I know you have said you have narrowed it down to injector electrics, and this guy didn't come back to confirm, but is it work triple checking your coils? https://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/87107-po355-fault-code/

Nope, I've never heard of it. Who doesn't love some good old mysterious electrical issues on a weekend? After swapping the injectors around, how are you determining it's still cylinders 2 and 4 giving you grief? Have you got some specific error codes coming up? just listening to them? I HAVE NEVER DONE THE FOLLOWING. So I've done some quick googling to confirm some stuff (*=googled it) but this is how I would proceed to diagnose where an electrical issue was. Check the battery voltage and all the grounding leads you can find. Disconnect the battery for *30 min to reset the ecu, just incase that fixes it. Have you got a multimeter? *99% of injectors are ground switched (ie: with key on, one wire has 12V all the time, the ecu connects the other to ground, connecting the circuit when it wants to fire the injector). With the key off, none of the injector wires should have continuity to ground. If you find continuity to ground on a bad injector plug pin, check the rest of the injector plugs aren't the same to make sure I'm not telling fibs. If not all the same >> You have chafed wires somewhere. Else, Turn the key on, and check that you are getting 12V supply to each of the injectors. If not >> chafed/broken wires. Else, turn car off and check there's no continuity between the pins in plug2 and the pins in plug 4. Just remember which ones were the 12V supply pins because they might have continuity between each other so don't worry if that test is positive. If yes >> chafed wires. With 2 injectors going out at the same time my 2 cents would be on this one 🤞 Last I'd grab an oscilloscope. Or even better, a rellie who knows how to use one. Plug it all back together, fire it up and use the oscilloscope to compare the signal a bad injector is getting to what a good injector is getting. If someones watching when you turn it on you might be able to see the signal go bad after the 5 seconds of idling. Or it's flat lining to start with / intermittent / half the voltage of the others. Depending on what you see hopefully points you towards broken wiring and not broken pcm. (*our injectors contain solenoids, others are piezoelectric. The internet tells me you don't want to piggyback an oscilloscope on piezo injectors cause they generate dirty great big voltage spikes that will leave you minus 1 oscilloscope.)

always good when a womanners gets in your face

That's right, seems reasonable lol

womenners of course

Yay Sunday Men have manners, women have?

morning all, happy Sunday 📫

almost no chance you've blown speakers or the amp itself jump-starting the car...

Hi, Check your Tailshaft centre bearing rubber, as I had an issue like this with vibration over 80km/h, so I put it up on ramps and the rubber was perished around centre bearing, so replaced it with a new centre bearing and vibration gone, more the outer rubber perishes worst the vibration is and if towing it puts more load on tailshaft and will vibrate more from the centre bearing moving around too much from outer rubber failure.

Hi, I have a 2003 BA XR6 Turbo 5 speed Manual Sedan with 102,000km I’ve owned since brand new, last time I drove it for about an hour with no problems and then it sat for about 6 hours and started it up and ran rough straight away, seem to run on 4 cylinders and had to drive it home like this. It runs well when started up and after about 5 seconds starts running rough, so found out after checking/swapping around Ignition coils, Spark plugs and Fuel Injectors that it seems to be dropping power out of cylinders 2 and 4 on the Injector plug that then stops those injectors from working.. So, has anyone come across this Electrical issue before that’s dropping power to some Injector plugs about 5 seconds after running and is there some checks and how to see if a Short/Ground/Relay etc Fault is somewhere and why would it be just the 2 cylinders affected and only number 2 and 4, these No. 2 and 4 injector wiring must join up somewhere along the line for them to fail at the same time? Thanks.

thanks mate will do, is there a chance ive blown the rear speakers in the process of jump starting the car? not too fimiliar with car audio and the shop I had the system installed at has shut down

we've definitely found a few we like over the last few weeks but yeah, there's a always hurdles... no big deal, just time consuming stuff

One good one is ok, it might take a few months to find something you really like.

Yeah I've had that happen once or twice when towing. At least you have an easy fix there.

Take it back to the dealer and say you didn't replace it properly, as they clearly didn't.

check the connections on the amps for output and input, work back from there to see what's happening.

yeah, just 1 good one out of today... not a big deal...

Bang on there … drivers rear had exactly what you described .. thank feck wasn’t a UJ etc 💪🏻

Great weather here today too although it's cooling down fairly quick now. You find any decent places @k31th? Yay Saturday and bring on the vodka and coke!

Hi, As of recent my rear door speakers are not working at all, I have 4 x Focal door speakers, 2 x Sound stream amps and 1 x Sound stream sub. Only has started happening since the car wouldnt start due to the clamps on battery leads werent secured properly and before I realised that was the issue I used a jump starter pack on the car and didnt turn over 3 times, even charged the battery but ended up getting the car started and now rear speakers not working, any help would be appreciated.

happy Saturday been a long day of looking for houses, but beautiful weather; just took the dog out for a play and relaxing before heading out again to a friend's house for a birthday party. Fun times

One thing to check for is delamination of the rear wheels. There could be an egg on the inside of the tyre or a subtle bump on the actual tread.

Hi all, Hope you lot can help me out, Driving back from Gin Gin to Brissie with a loaded Trailer my Falcon started to vibrate at the rear just before Tiaro & got progressively worse to the point I'm limping along at 80k's hoping nothing would detonate, no vibration in the steering and still vibrated when put the 6 spd auto in neutral while still driving. I made it home I think much to the disgust of other travelers and about to jack the rear up to have a gander ... any points commonly to look at there?... Plz note I have done many trips up there towing Trailer loads & my boat over the last couple of years ... TIA for any feed back .. cheers

I just had my dealer replace my ICC unit on my FG. They replaced it and did not setup the reversing camera. When I spoke to them about it, they said the camera needs programming and would cost an additional $200. Does it need programming, I would have thought it was plug and play considering it was setup previously? and if it does need programming, is that something I can easily do? Or Does it just need wiring attached?

Yay Friday