High Powered Headlight Globes

[Turbo6man]

The low beams are very good if your lights are adjusted properly. High beams are patchy and badly controlled. High power globes will damage the lights. Just get a Phillips H4 60/55 and adjust your lights properly. Forget the H7s in the inners as they do nothing anyway. Don't believe me? Just disconnect the plug and you'll see for yourself. Virtually all the light on high beam comes from your H4s - the outers. If you want better high beam you have to put something like Narva 180s and mount them on a decent nudge bar. Also forget using a Unibar or similar light bar as the whole bumper flexes so much your driving lights will just shake.

[Guest P'cisT]

Get the stuff from Phillips. Great quality.

I got CrystalVision headlights:

These made the headlights brighter and much more white in colour.

I also have SilverVision for the rear indicators.

These make the amber indicators look silver in apperance, but actually blink amber. Gives the taillights a nice clear whitish bottom half without the 'eggyolk' effect.

You can get them here and at Autobarns.

Top notch stuff.

Edited 04/03/04 12:25 PM by P'cisT

[Guest OXR-747]

I also have SilverVision for the rear indicators.

can you post a pic of the rear of your car please. would like to see what this looks like.

[Guest P'cisT]

I also have SilverVision for the rear indicators.

can you post a pic of the rear of your car please. would like to see what this looks like.

Nah, don't have a image yet, but use your imagination! Instead of normal, when you look at the clear part of the taillights and see orange/amber globe behind it, you can't see globe with mine since it's silver in coluor.

[Trumpy]

I replaced the low beams a couple of months after I got the car. I bought Osram Plus 50s, still in the standard wattage as I didnt want to melt the housing.

I have noticed a difference. When I put them in I replaced 1, then went for a drive. Against the garage door the new ones did look like a whiter light. Should have taken a pic for comparison.

Absolute bas*ard of a job to change them, every knuckle lost a bit of skin that day.

Agree with Turbo6man though, headlight adjustment is very important. I usually have a play with the headlight aim in every new car I buy. Trial and error is a wonderful thing...

[crisso]

can you post a pic of the rear of your car please. would like to see what this looks like.

I scored this pic off the site...

[Guest P'cisT]

Is there some sort of rule or method you're suppose to follow when adjusting the headlights?

[profrat]

Has anyone actually seen any of these headlight housings with heat damage from 90/100w globes. Sure, if you park on a summer night with your lights on HB I can imagine it, but..............

Are the 'Fog" lights true 'fog' beams or are they 'driving' beams? Are there any aftermarket mods to fit real long range (kangaroo spotting) beams in their place?

Getting older and blinder,

Cheers, Profrat

[genebaby]

I replaced the low beams a couple of months after I got the car. I bought Osram Plus 50s, still in the standard wattage as I didnt want to melt the housing.

I have noticed a difference. When I put them in I replaced 1, then went for a drive. Against the garage door the new ones did look like a whiter light. Should have taken a pic for comparison.

Absolute bas*ard of a job to change them, every knuckle lost a bit of skin that day.

Agree with Turbo6man though, headlight adjustment is very important. I usually have a play with the headlight aim in every new car I buy. Trial and error is a wonderful thing...

I noticed when I replaced mine the originals were Osram, but probably a lower grade. What procedure do you use to adjust your low beams?

[Turbo6man]

profrat> They are true fog beams - very wide flat beam. You can get a driving light insert to suit if you want to, but they are so low to the ground that their usefullness is limited.

For everyone ... To adjust your low beams properly:

Drive up to a wall, preferably brick. Park close and note where the "v" of your low beam is positioned. Slowly back up and note the change of position of the "v" that occurs. The "v" should not move left or right. It should dip so that at about two carlenghts back from the wall it is about 100mm (one course of bricks) lower than the start position. Of course you need level ground for best results and it may be necessary to move fwd and rwd several times to get your eye in.