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  • I see a red door and I want to paint it black
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 15y 8m 23d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Far north queensland

...and even just tightening that front bottom one is a bastard. I could get a uni-joint on there last time but struggled yesterday.

do some people use a half moon 14mm ring spanner on it?

I put a 1/4 drive scoket, uni then extension in from under the turbo, and near the wheel arch, then a 3/8 to 1/4 reducer and bung the 3/8" drive ratchet on it. Was a dead set kharnt until I worked out that one. Qik1 and I spent almost 2 hours trying bloody everything to get to it after changing turbos one day, in the end I drove round with it out for a few months.

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  • ʎǝʞuoɯ ɹoıuǝs
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 16y 7m 2d
  • Gender: Male

sideways: that's how I did it last time, I put some electrical tape on the uni so it wouldnt flop around as much, but for some reason wouldn't want to play when I tried it last weekend.

  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 14y 6m 9d

No the turbo end has a fine thread. Lock tight won't do anything, remember what we do to things that we need to undo that have lock tight bolts... We hit it with an oxy. I've seen my turbo and manifold glowi g before... I put new studs with a spring washers. Will see his this goes

Only after the manifold end, as I want to get new studs anyway. Old ones shouldn't be reused as they'll have stretched from the heat and coming loose.

These should do the trick, m10x1.5 manifold end, and m10x1.25 turbo end, 45mm long

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TURBO-EXHAUST-STUD-NUT-SET-M10-X-1-25-M10-X-1-5-4-PACK-/170532913066?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27b48dbfaa#ht_1118wt_905

& these...

http://gcg.com.au/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=1281&category_id=219&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=101

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  • Member For: 13y 11m

http://www.atomicperformanceproducts.com/anchorlox.html

Looking at this I can't tell if you need the locking bolt kits or stud and locking nut kits for our standard turbos. I'm assuming you need the stud and locking nuts?

And are Anchorlox and Stage 8 made by the same company?

http://www.stage8.com/dealers/australia.html

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  • Member For: 14y 2m 3d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Burwood, NSW

http://www.atomicper.../anchorlox.html

Looking at this I can't tell if you need the locking bolt kits or stud and locking nut kits for our standard turbos. I'm assuming you need the stud and locking nuts?

And are Anchorlox and Stage 8 made by the same company?

http://www.stage8.co.../australia.html

accord to atomic you can use either or?

why would you use the studs rather than bolts, im also confused on this issue.

have a look at the price of the atomic, its nearly double the stage 8 so I doubt they are the same

  • 1 month later...
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 14y 6m 9d

Stage 8 stuff currently on sale at GCG, not a whole lot, but still a sh*tload cheaper than atomic.

I ended up getting m10x1.5 studs (both ends, factory is 1.5 manifold, 1.25 turbo end) and the m10x1.5 stage 8 locking nut kit.

http://gcg.com.au/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&category_id=219&Itemid=101&TreeId=6

  • I see a red door and I want to paint it black
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 15y 8m 23d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Far north queensland

why would you use the studs rather than bolts, im also confused on this issue.

Studs hold more torque, you tighten the stud first then put a nut on which applies torque in the other direction. Steam pipework requires studs on the flanges.

have a look at the price of the atomic, its nearly double the stage 8 so I doubt they are the same

Atomic are inconel, the other GCG are a high tensile alloy. Inconel was inside the last steam turbine I worked on, nuff said.

  • ʎǝʞuoɯ ɹoıuǝs
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 16y 7m 2d
  • Gender: Male

I bought the inconel studs and stage 8 nuts from GCG during the week, but found I will have probably have to remove the turbo and manifold to swap the studs over :(

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