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  • Member
  • Member For: 20y 3m 30d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: @ my laptop
Posted

Does the noise disappear if you have it in gear and load the throttle slightly?

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  • Member
  • Member For: 16y 1m 17d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth, WA
Posted

yes it does, when it first starts up its bad, but once in drive and moving, its ok..then when I coast the noise comes back, and starts clunking again! what are you thinking??:dontknow:

  • Member
  • Member For: 17y 10m 2d
Posted

gees mate!!!! I hope for your sake we are all right. but from what you are describing it defs sounds like a flexplate. its quite a common problem once you start pushing some power through the ol 6t. spesh with the zf box.

  • Member
  • Member For: 16y 1m 17d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth, WA
Posted

well, the guy who did the mods is CONVINCED its not the bottom end, he got it up on the hoist this arvo, had a good listen to it while it was running, and he's gonna crack open the 'box tomorrow and have a look! I'm really hoping it is just the flex plate, I can't afford a whole rebuild right now! the last thing I want is for a $70k+ car to sit in my garage for the next 6 months while I save for parts :crybaby:

  • Member
  • Member For: 17y 15d
Posted

Jumped a cam gear tooth, exhaust cam duty cycle is 0 at idle and the valves hit the pistons, when the idle is raised the dc goes to 50% and the variable cam control restores cam position based on the cam sensor. Check the cam error at idle with a scan tool.

Joel

  • Member
  • Member For: 16y 1m 17d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth, WA
Posted

thanks joel! I'll definitly let him know to check that too!

Cheers mate!

  • Member
  • Member For: 20y 3m 30d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: @ my laptop
Posted (edited)

I'm hoping for your sake it's just the driveplate as it sounds like it from your description. If it is do not reuse the driveplate.

Joel

Saw a tornado once that had jumped 3 teeth on both cams and there was no piston to valve contact, saw a BA that jumped about 15, that was a different story though

Edited by ratter
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 15y 11m 4d
  • Gender: Male
Posted

Plus you can get a new fg f6 short here in melbourne for $3000 brand new. If it is the short buy it here in victoria and get your tuner to put it in, should be done for about $2000 to remove and fit motor. Talk about trying to screw people over.

  • Throbbing Member
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 17y 7m 21d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Victoria
Posted

Sounds very much like flexplate to me. I had the same thing happen and I sh*t myself thought it was bottom end gone. The noise would disappear when there was load on it, but at idle it was noisey as hell.

Got a new modified flexplate put in from mick at pitlane and its been perfect ever since.

  • Member
  • Member For: 17y 15d
Posted

I'm hoping for your sake it's just the driveplate as it sounds like it from your description. If it is do not reuse the driveplate.

Joel

Saw a tornado once that had jumped 3 teeth on both cams and there was no piston to valve contact, saw a BA that jumped about 15, that was a different story though

The vehicle in question was an FG XR6T, jumped only one or two teeth on the crank so both cams were out, I never bothered to look to see if it was a difference in VCT angles in the FG to BA that might make a difference. The top of the guide on the tensioner side breaks off, some investigation found it has happened on more than one occasion through some Ford contacts. I ahve seen a BA do the same without any issue too.

Hopefully the flex plate is cracked and that is why the bolts appear tight, it happens on lots of vehicles not just Fords that's for sure, Ive seen the middle crack right out around the crank bolts and the car still drive.

Joel

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