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How To Fix A Door Actuator


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  • Manual mode ________________________ All day, erryday
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  • Member For: 16y 5m 2d
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I'm joining the club as of today, driver's door won't lock, just goes BRR-R-R. I'm banking on the plastic cog but I tried to remove the assembly from the car tonight and wasn't sure how the long rods come out from the lock assembly? It's trapped in there by the handle rod and lock button rod :( What is the trick? The handle one ends in a red plastic joiner, how do I get that out from the swivelling section? The button rod could stay attached most likely from what I saw.

Have express ordered 4x repair kits from ebay anyway, see if they get to my office before we shut on Friday for xmas break...

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  • Too heavy needs boost
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  • Member For: 10y 8m 21d
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  • Location: Adelaide

on the b series there very easy Steve. I did mine about 5 times on the ba. door trim off. three screws and disconnect the handles and push button lock. the thing that always go's on them is the 2cent plastic gear. don't lose the spring hot tip.

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  • Manual mode ________________________ All day, erryday
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  • Member For: 16y 5m 2d
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  • Location: Probably above atmospheric pressure

disconnect the handles and push button lock

This is the bit troubling me...how to remove those rods - lock assembly end or handle end? The button I think could come out along with the assembly anyway as it's not attached to anything else. I'm possibly picking up a repair kit with instructions tonight so see how I go! Just worried if I yank on the rods too much I'll break the handle connection.

Oh it could be the keyhole portion come to think of it as well, since it's the driver's door.

Edited by -SteveR-
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  • Too heavy needs boost
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  • Member For: 10y 8m 21d
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  • Location: Adelaide

I wish I took pictures now but I didnt really have a issue with it. it's a little inward clip that go's through a clip with a hole in it. it has more play then ya think. get a torch in there and have a look.

what did the repair kit set ya back.

I hope the fg's are the same. I have like 3 spare worm drive gears.

Edited by BiZkets
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  • Manual mode ________________________ All day, erryday
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  • Member For: 16y 5m 2d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Probably above atmospheric pressure

I got a 4x repair kit for like $70 delivered I think. Comes with new motor, plastic cog, springs, sliding nut and washer things.

I'll have another dig tonight, not looking forward to it on a work night, would rather play Diablo 3 with my gf and her brother that just moved in and brought his PS3 with him :)

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  • Too heavy needs boost
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  • Member For: 10y 8m 21d
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what no gt6.

all ya need usually is the worm drive. they tend to snap in the middle. the main cause I got told was I always double lock the doors for the beep to tell me it's lock which can over spin the cog which will eventually break it. good luck.

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  • Manual mode ________________________ All day, erryday
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  • Member For: 16y 5m 2d
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  • Location: Probably above atmospheric pressure

So from what I found the handle rod is the one that needs to come out first, like so (didn't notice this clip had no back yesterday).

edit20131217_185049.jpg

edit20131217_185110.jpg

edit20131217_185120.jpg

After getting that undone I was able to really start moving the assembly and was about to get a look at the key barrel rod but it went BANG and popped out...hopefully I haven't broken something, it looked OK. though. Here's a before pic when it was all still connected

edit20131217_183902.jpg

And shock, horror, a broken cog

th_edit20131217_185947.jpg

Edited by -SteveR-
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  • Manual mode ________________________ All day, erryday
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  • Member For: 16y 5m 2d
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Bonus tip that I haven't come across yet

I removed the offending cog/springs/nut entirely as well as some debris splintered off from the shaft, then reassembled.

I then disconnected this cord which is the signal and power to the driver's door lock actuator (you figure that out quick when you plug/unplug it and the doors all fire up):

edit20131217_183621.jpg
edit20131217_183607.jpg

By the way pay attention to the lock button rod going on the driver's side of the anti water layer material up near the top right in the above photo when you reassemble. It slips into a cut in the foam and thus can't rub against the outer door metal (probably wouldn't matter as it's located by the button but better safe than sorry).

Now the driver's door isn't controlled by central locking any more, and its status is seemingly ignored by the car, allowing central locking to work for the remaining 3 doors without unlocking and beeping at you. The best bit is with the key barrel rod still connected, you simply use the key to lock/unlock the driver's door...old school. This will allow me to drive my car at work tomorrow with my valuable gear inside, safely locked away, then collect the replacement part when convenient.

Also remember to slip the inside handle cable back into the slot on the lock assembly or it won't have enough tension to pop the lock open when you pull the inside handle:

edit20131217_183837.jpg

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  • I am dissatisfied with my current employment situation
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  • Member For: 17y 6m 29d
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Lol, I didn't insert the cable into the handle properly when I did mine, couldn't open the door for 3 months till I figured out it was that and took 2 secs to fix. Everyone that was in the car had a sook that they had to open the window and will the outside handle to get out

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  • skids
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  • Member For: 11y 3m 29d
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sweet as gonna do this all tomorrow.

should post up how im going to repair it without using a new cog :O (kidding...I need to find a way to make back door lock...then find a cog replacement).

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