Bleeding Brakes - Which Way Do You Do It?

[BlueOvalPrint]

Hi, I've got a question about brake bleeding procedures for my beloved T. I do all work on my car myself and have done brakes on lots of cars before, but I want to clarify the right way to bleed the T - and find out why the Ford manual sets out a different process to most cars.

I was taught the following: with 2 people, one pumps the pedal 3-5 times then holds it down while the second person then loosens the bleed valve which pushes the air bubbles/dirty fluid into a tube connected to a waste container. They then do up the valve, then repeat the pump/bleed process about 4 times per wheel. Or with one person and a one-way bleed tube, loosen the valve, pump the pedal about 6 times, then lock off the bleeder and repeat for the other wheels.

However, according to Ford's BA Falcon manual (sorry, can't find the link atm but it is on this site), the procedure is connect the tube, loosen the bleeder, push the pedal fully down once then close the bleeder. Wait 5 seconds then repeat as required.

So..why the difference? I recall when I had a (blush) '99 Magna, the Haynes manual advised the engine (and therefore the ABS system) had to be running during the process. Does eveyone use the Ford technique or is the "old" style still ok?

Cheers, Dean

[senna_T]

Ford style is ok mate, it worked for me when I did a brake upgrade (calipers and discs)

Just remember to start with the rear passenger side, then rear driver, then passenger front, then the driver front.

[Benny]

Dean,

Your method sounds like the usual way I've had it done on my previous BA and also other non ford vehicles. I'd stick with it I reckon.

Benny.

[samzbob]

Ford style is ok mate, it worked for me when I did a brake upgrade (calipers and discs)

Just remember to start with the rear passenger side, then rear driver, then passenger front, then the driver front.

Being a Turbo (which has traction control) yes that is right, just a note incase someone does a BA XR6 or XT without traction control, the RR wheel usually gets done first, as the brake pipe goes to the left hand hose, then splits off to the right on non traction control vehicles.

[RHR]

Bled plenty of brakes here. Most recent were a HD Expensive Daewoo X2 my old man is doing up and they were done the "normal" way

[our06t]

I have done front only on mine when I changed discs and it was fine ,the front and rear are seperate systems ,as long as you don't let the fluid get to low you can do the front without doin the back

[jj1947]

Dean,

Your method sounds like the usual way I've had it done on my previous BA and also other non ford vehicles. I'd stick with it I reckon.

Benny.

What if you brake the hydraulic line at the master cylinder such as a replacement, I read somewhere that if you brake the line before the ABS modulater than normal bleeding wont get the air out and needs special bleeding procedures does anybody know anything about this

[xr6greg]

Gravity bleed. Sit the whole car on a hoist, axle stands (purely to give you a bit of room. Crack open all the nipples and let the fluid 'bleed' through the system. Takes a while, half hour or longer, to do it properly. Gets messy as you can imagine.

Edited 01/11/10 03:49 AM by RHR
No need to quote above post. USE FAST REPLY

[Guest XR09]

The old way works fine.

If it doesn't then the gravity way is the go. Just get some air line from a fish tank filter. This fits over the bleeders great. And 4 empty bottles. Like a 330ml coke bottle. Keep a good eye on the brake fluid res. And make sure it does not drain out completely.

Use some good fluid like Penrite Sin or equivalent.

[Smoke them tyres]

Get yourself one of these:

from:

http://www.mcas.com.au/_products.php?subcategory=37&line=6

They work brilliantly and save the bleeder screw threads and hex from the constant tightening/loosening. I bled all 4 brakes in mine in under an hour on my own. All you do for each brake is attach the bleeder with the outlet hose higher than the nipple and into a container, loosen the nipple and pump the brake pedal. The check valve in the tool will do the job of flow control for you.

I would also recommend getting a proper thick wall brake nipple spanner as once rounded, they're .

Edited 01/11/10 10:40 AM by Smoke them tyres