Stock Intercoolers Limit

[igsta]

As I recently have had my edit custom tuned I have a problem with what I think is heat soak. If I drive the car normally for a while and put my foot down it goes like a rocket at 10 psi. Then I will sit at the lights for a minute, light goes green, and I put my foot down, I loose quite a bit of power with my boost dropping to about 7psi. Its not as bad in the cold mornings but still happens.

Mods

injectors

fuel pump

2nd air with filter

center muffler removal

10psi custom edit tune - roughly 260rwkw

So is what Im experiencing heat soak in the intercooler?, I thought these coolers could handle a few runs without getting too hot and drop my psi.

Or could it be the edit tune being too protective and drop the psi once the intake temps rise above x amount?

Im sure there are guys here who have more power and maintain peak boost without loosing too much power as the car is driven hard for extended periods.

[corpex]

Well a bigger Intercooler will maintain higher boost levels for much longer than the stock Intercooler. Best to get a bigger Intercooler for

260rwkw anyway.

[Buf-Phoon]

As I recently have had my edit custom tuned I have a problem with what I think is heat soak. If I drive the car normally for a while and put my foot down it goes like a rocket at 10 psi. Then I will sit at the lights for a minute, light goes green, and I put my foot down, I loose quite a bit of power with my boost dropping to about 7psi. Its not as bad in the cold mornings but still happens.

Mods

injectors

fuel pump

2nd air with filter

center muffler removal

10psi custom edit tune - roughly 260rwkw

So is what Im experiencing heat soak in the intercooler?, I thought these coolers could handle a few runs without getting too hot and drop my psi.

Or could it be the edit tune being too protective and drop the psi once the intake temps rise above x amount?

Im sure there are guys here who have more power and maintain peak boost without loosing too much power as the car is driven hard for extended periods.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

My T was running 280ks at the wheels and everytime I went to WSID my first or second run was always the fastest. Simply put I was at the limit of the FMIC and to be consistent I needed a bigger and better IC. The MPH would drop by about 5-7.5% as a consequence of heatsoak , particularly if I had been sitting in traffic on the way to the track

My only regret is that I never had the chance to run in ideal ambient conditions

There was a 12.5 or better up for grabs but I will never know as the car was making around 114mph with a sh*t 60'.

[RAPHOON]

The limit (cooling rather than flow) really depends on where you are at and the season you are in.

As I understand it, the power drop (particularly in edited cars) is related to the increase in intake charge (air) temperature. The ECU sees the increase and adjusts the settings (timing fuel etc) to protect the engine.

Applying this to the relatively small standard intercooler will mean that a guy in Brisbane will drop power quicker/earlier than someone in Melbourne. Higher ambient temps.

In Brisbane, you really notice the difference between winter and summer even running stock. Let alone on an edit higher boost map.

[JB]

Dependant of atmosphere conditions, but basically from the numerous testing I did with HPF and as shown on my Dyno graph it levels out at 280rwkw and really struggles from there on. Not only from a heat perspective but also the coolers ability to keep up with the requirements of the car in terms of flow and pressure drop etc.

I ran it with 305rwkw and on good weather days it struggled to be anywhere near consistant. I would get one - two goods squuirts then game over. On the dyno we would get one really good run then an avg one then we would have to stop as intake temps went through the roof, so the car had to be cooled down. This was also represented down the qtr with run after run the car not only lost time, but the MPH dropped dramatically.

I would suggest if you have 260rwkw you are fine, but if you are wanting to eventually go for more power, efficiency is the key, hence anything from 280rwkw onwards starts to become a must.

It would be heat soak you are experiencing, but that is also eveident in stock cars with city driving. When the weather went cold in melb my stock cooler began to cope again and was giving consistent power, especially at Night time!

My tip from my learnings and experience anywhere between 260-280rwkw if you want more power or want consistent power. You will be amazed at how small the factory unit is for a big 4.0l turbo car.

[JB]

The limit (cooling rather than flow) really depends on where you are at and the season you are in. 

As I understand it, the power drop (particularly in edited cars) is related to the increase in intake charge (air) temperature.  The ECU sees the increase and adjusts the settings (timing fuel etc) to protect the engine.

Applying this to the relatively small standard intercooler will mean that a guy in Brisbane will drop power quicker/earlier than someone in Melbourne.  Higher ambient temps.

In Brisbane, you really notice the difference between winter and summer even running stock.  Let alone on an edit higher boost map.

Exactly

[igsta]

This may sound silly, when I give my car a couple of squirts and the boost/power drops I get out of the car and feel the cooler, but its not hot at all its still very cool. Would it be the inside of the cooler which is hot?

[RAPHOON]

This may sound silly, when I give my car a couple of squirts and the boost/power drops I get out of the car and feel the cooler, but its not hot at all its still very cool. Would it be the inside of the cooler which is hot?

It more related to what's happening to the air whilst you are accelarating. By the time you slow down, stop etc., the cooler will have had an oppotunity to cool itself down a little. Particularly now that the temps have dropped.

[Guest xrglen]

FROM MY EXPERIENCE IT IS OIL TEMP NOT INTERCOOLER TEMP THAT MAKES THE CAR DROP POWER. WHEN DRIVING IN THE MORNING AND THE TEMP HITS 1/4 I HAVE ABOUT 433RWHP. LET IT IDLE FOR 10 MORE MINUTES AND POWER DROPS TO 360RWHP. THE COMPUTER PICKS UP HIGH TEMP AND RETARDS THE TIMING. THIS HAS BEEN PROVEN ON THE DYNO AND WITH MY G-TECH METER. THE NEW F-6 HAS A OIL COOLER TO PREVENT THIS FROM HAPPENING. I WILL BE FITTING ONE VERY SHORTLY.

[maximum_velocity]

FROM MY EXPERIENCE IT IS OIL TEMP NOT INTERCOOLER TEMP THAT MAKES THE CAR DROP POWER. WHEN DRIVING IN THE MORNING AND THE TEMP HITS 1/4 I HAVE ABOUT 433RWHP. LET IT IDLE FOR 10 MORE MINUTES AND POWER DROPS TO 360RWHP. THE COMPUTER PICKS UP HIGH TEMP AND RETARDS THE TIMING. THIS HAS BEEN PROVEN ON THE DYNO AND WITH MY G-TECH METER. THE NEW F-6 HAS A OIL COOLER TO PREVENT THIS FROM HAPPENING. I WILL BE FITTING ONE VERY SHORTLY.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

THANKS FOR THE INFO!!!!!!