sark021

Didn't think to get before and after shots now that you mention it, but before it was like the classic warm yellowy filament glow and now it is a cool white/blue colour which kinda looks ummm, you know....cool. I have to say that it is more obvious because I have white number plates with black lettering. Don't know how effective they are with other colour plates.

Decided recently to continue replacing as many of the filament globes with LEDs around the car and this time got as far as the number plate lights. Bought 5 point white LEDs for this but found that the overall circumference of the globe wouldn't go into the hole of the housing which holds the T10 wedge socket in place. What to do? Could buy 10mm dia. LEDs but these are usually single point and might not have enough illumination. Anyway, after a while I thought that if I could create an access hole in the lamp housing, I could then leave the socket in place and pull out and push in globes at will. Anyways, this approached worked. Sorry if this has been dealt with before somewhere, or whether is doesn't take a genius to work this modification out, however I thought I might post some pictures in case anyone has a similar issue with getting over-sized LEDs into the number plate light housing. Used a hack saw to make the slots right down to the diffuser. Gently ripped them out with long nose pliers. Left about 10-12mm of housing in place at the socket end.

Had my tyres done as well and was told the same thing. But, couldn't live without shiny tyres so looked around for a product without silicon and stuff. As I was already using some of the CHEMICAL GUYS products (which are brilliant), I ordered their Black Forever Gel which is a water based product. Not as shiny as the silicon stuff, but rather gives the tyres a "as new" satin look which kinda looks awesome. Seems to last pretty well between applications (using a foam applicator) and I hope it will be "soft" on the red walls over time.

Small Groove then fill with paint.

Had the tyres done over with red walls recently. At the time I thought it would be a really cool things to do and would look fine. Trouble is....does it? When I emailed a work friend some pictures he thinks it looks s**t (mind you this is from a bloke that drives a VW Golf!). He thinks it looks a bit too ricey. Can you guys give me an honest opinion. Too late to go back now (unless of course I ditch the Dunlop 3000As for a new set of Goodyear Eagle F1s. So what do you guys think??

Whoops sorry, double posted.

Bought a Meguiars orbital a while back. Didn't use it for a long time as I wasn't confident because I was always used to doing it by hand and was afraid of doing something wrong. Once I got the courage up, I too was disappointed with the result. But after playing around with it for quite a while, I found out the following: I was too conservative with the speed, bumping up the speed to 5 out of 6 was the way to go. Using a speed of say 3 was useless. Also, I was too conservative on the grade of pad as I was scared of too much abrasion. I need not have worried about that either. So with a higher speed, a higher grade of abrasive pad and a product like Scratch -X, the orbital did the trick and got the swirls out and left a very clean smooth finish. Then with a layer of good quality wax and your laughing. IMHO, I wasted way too much energy (and too little result) doing it by hand and the orbital is the way to go if you get the set-up right and a bit of patience. But for those who think that hand polish is the way to go - go ahead - I'm sure you will benefit from the exercise (remember Danielson: wax on, wax off!).

Decided to invest in one of these ball valve drain plugs as I intend to change the oil quite regularly and thought it would be quicker and a lot less messier. So somewhere else in a forum that others have recommended them. Anyway, ordered the one for a Barra 4.0L 6cyl (Code: F-109) and tried to fit it today....and guess what....it doesn't fit! Wrong thread pitch or something (Murphy's law has it that this sort of thing always happens to me). Now, before I get severely bitter and twisted and send of an email to these guys, has anyone else had a similar problem and what was done about it? I have a n/a BFII XR6 and I'm sure that I purchased the right one according to their sizing chart. Did the sump plug thread change in the life of the 6cyl Barra motor or what??? Would like some feedback before I demand a refund or a replacement.

I think you might be right....though I don't begrudge money spent on the Opera House. But as a new south welshman.....I can tell you 100% that they are not spending on the roads. The roads are pathetic, their management and upkeep are pathetic, and any decent road you want to use to get around this damn place you have to pay through the nose for in tolls. Where is all the money really going......someone tell me pleeeeeze!!!!!

I didn't want my rant to be too long....but yeah I'm well aware of their new offices. What a waste of money. Now...I can understand some companies needing to be in the city like big law firms and multinationals as a city location provides a measure of prestige for them. But the RTA!!! They're just a bunch of friggin public servants. Whats wrong with head office in say Parramatta, Liverpool or Penrith. Oh no, can't do that, then the fat RTA cats won't get their harbour views and indulge in their latte sipping extended play lunches. We, the public are just biggest bunch of suckers ever. By the way...keeping an eye on Bangkcock. People power in action.....is that the only way to get rid of this darn pathetic and incompetent labor state government (sorry for the politics). Oh bye the way exarsixturbo, checked out the ACT site for plates and a personalised plate..say.....AA 123 costs $360.00 ONCE! In NSW that is the cost for first year only..then another $90.00...read again...$90.00 every year after that. They just keep shoving their dirty mitts into your pocket year after year! Money for jam! But I must admit, some of their other personalised plates are a definitely rip-off. And I forgot to mention, in ACT.....NO ANNUAL FEE!

After seeing a news item a couple of weeks ago regarding the introduction of new styles and pricing, the article was miss leading as who ever wrote it gave the impression the existing range would be more affordable. Well, as usual, when papers aren't straight out lying they just plain otherwise get it it wrong. And as no one has yet seemed to noticed since the 8 April intro date, please, let me be the first to be outraged. As usual (in NSW) this re-organisation of the number plate range and pricing is nothing more than a cash grab from motorists pockets that the government seemingly thinks is bottomless. From my understanding, in the other states you pay a once only up front payment and the darn things are yours until you decide to give them up. But, oh no, not in NSW, they put their greedy hands in your pocket every year. Some of the annual fees (on top of the ridiculous order fee) are straight out criminal highway robbery for a piece of metal which most other motorists don't even care to notice on your car anymore because there are so many out there already. My own number plates last year were $30 to order and $90 a year to maintain. Now $90 is approaching the pain threshold as this gets added to my already expensive NSW rego fees each year. But why is it now $110 to order. Sorry, has something really changed...like are the prisoners in Long Bay now demanding more money and privledges to make them for the RTA before they riot or what?....somebody please tell me and justify it. Ok...so it may not be a lot of money in one case, but the whole structure of the new pricing is obviously a cash grab. And if you think I'm hyperventilating over nothing, don't forget that you may not be keen on a set of plates now, but when you are, this or the next government will just keep jacking them up over time because they can without immunity and don't care at the slightest what we think. Good on you NSW government...good thinking, no wonder were lagging behind the rest of the country.

I see that the audiax DGT-201 is still available from minidisc.com.au for $70.00. As I said earlier...it cuts through the interference and has a very good strong signal.....makes all the others I've tried sound absolutely lame. Other than this....these FM transmitters are pretty much a hit and miss affair. One good resource for gauging performance is looking at the user reviews on Amazon.com. I will always consult this resource for feedback before committing to a purchase for a similar product offered in Australia. The reviewers are always happy to bag a dog of a product where warranted. Always good to learn from others mistakes. However, even though the AudiaX takes a battery which doesn't last all that long...I run it off a previously disused cigarette adapter I found in my junk drawer. On another point....for those in Sydney....I've found 103.7 to be the best clear frequency.

Have tried (and wasted money on) a few of these transmitters myself and I agree, the Belkin one is woeful. Nice idea with a cradle and all but it just doesn't cut it....I don't use it anymore. HOWEVER... If you want a recommendation on a really effective transmitter, I finally found one about a year ago by sussing out many reviews and comments on the net. What I found and bought was one called an AudiaX. Great strong reception and nothing interferes with it. Small...but a real good little performer. Trouble is it won't charge your Pod but if you can live without that capability, the AudiaX will not disappoint! Not sure if you can still get AudiaX as I got mine some time ago. But if you can still get it....I can highly recommend it.

I know it sounds too simple...but this did happen to me when I got the car back from the panel beater and I thought they had buggered something up. No courtesy lights and the door ajar light always on. My simple solution was to replace the blown blue 15amp fuse under the dash....then lights came back and door ajar light went out. Sounds simple....worth a try?

Thanks ORMSBA Not worried about the cost... Just don't want to stuff the dashboard (the wife will kill me for "F"ing around with it. But it really bugs me when at some angles of the light you can see marks that you can't get to. The average person probably won't notice but I know its there...arrrrgh!!

Oh geez.... Now your making me nervous. I'm thinking I'll live with the smudge marks....

Hey...thanks for the quick reply Yeah I get the idea now. When I build up the confidence to try it I will. Thanks for your help.

Hi all...hope someone can help I've noticed marks on the transparent perspex screen in front of the main instrument panel gauges. At some angles of the light it can be quite noticeable and it is starting to really bug me. I've tried to gently wipe them away from the outside but I think that they are on the inside surface. I would like to have a go at removing the perspex screen only if it is relatively easy and I don't stuff the whole thing up. I've noticed three screws on the underside of the cowling above and in front of the screen. If this is where I make a start, how many more steps are there in removing the screen. If someone has already attempted this, can you give me the steps on how to get the screen out and then back in again. Any guidance would be most appreciated.

Oh..OK Now I know why I shoulda paid attention in sex education classes all those years ago. :-)

Changing polarity without cutting and splicing the wiring would be another solution....but would it be easier than just putting on these condom thingys? Wouldn't mind finding out how it can be done though.

Kinda thought about that....I think you may be right....I thought that if I did a cut and splice that I will end up with a compromised or reduced functionality. Like to get more feedback before I slice and dice!

Hi all Need a bit of advise with a wiring problem. I have suceesfully (successfully only because it was was easy to do!!) replaced the centre and footwell lights with blue LEDs. The centre light was festoon and the footwell lights were wedge type bulbs. Anyway, I've since found out that LEDs are polarity specific and so festoons and wedgies are easy turn around if necessary to get them to work. However, the original white rear courtesy lights are bayonet type. I bough a couple of blue LED bayonet bulbs off Ebay that may have come from China for the rear but unfortunately it is not the right polarity and hense will not work (yet!). Now, the switch at the base of the bayonet fitting has three wires coming into it. I have toyed with the idea of simply cutting and then splicing the wires around to reverse the polarity but a little voice in the back of my head tells me it isn't quite that simple (this is in consideration of the fact that there is a switch but also that the lights are also dependant on opening and closing of doors which makes me fear that that it is a little more complex than I first thought). As I am not an electrician, only a person with a little common sense, could someone with wiring expertise tell me what a simple work around is that I could perform to get these chinese bayonet LED globes to work because they have the wrong polarity for a XR6. BTW...when I went to one specialized auto outlet who I thought may have blue LED bayonets of the right polarity...I was told they couldn't sell it to me anyway as it is illegal to have coloured interior courtesy lights. If this is right....its sounds like crap and it would be one law I would be more than comfortable breaking.

I had the same worries, concerns and sleepless nights after my no fault accident and was hoping the insurance company was going to write it off so I can move on and get another XR. Anyways, they decided to fix it...$16 000 worth of damage. Six weeks later, I was apprehensive when it was time to pick it up. The outcome?, to anyone else, they would say it is absolutely perfect and in a sense they would be right. However...when it is the baby of the family and you tend to know every inch of your own car, I would say it is 98% there....I have since learned to live with the other 2%. They did a bloody good job considering the shunt I was given by a semi-trailer and collision with a concrete barrier. As the car was on a Car-o-liner, I have to say that it drives and feels exactly like the morning before the incident. As far as alignment issued are concerned, I will only be able to gauge this after a few thousand kilometres and seeing what abnormal wear appears on the tyre tread. If none, then everything is sweet. At the end of the day, if I was not confident and comfortable that the baby was back together as close to original as I would tolerate (and I am a fussy *beep*), I would have ditched it, borrowed a few more thousand dollars and gone FG. With so many people telling me during the repair process that the car will never be the same and I should get rid of it....well I now realise that it is better not to listen to others and stress about it and think for yourself and make your own mind up. I have kept the car (now had it back for about two months) and continue to enjoy it as I have before the accident. I'm guessing (though I may be wrong) that since the accident was not my fault, the insurance would have back charged to the other person's insurance company whatever is required to get the car right and back to the condition is was before the accident. And I think this is reflected in the final result. My car is Neo (blue) and I have to say that the colour match is absolutely exceptional, regardless of whatever light you look at it. I have to say also that when I went to visit the panel beater during the time the car was on the Car-o-liner, just looking at the cleanliness and order of their premises gave me a sense of confidence. Can recommend them no worries. If you wish to see what it looked like before and after including pictures of the accident damage, go to www.bseries.com.au. Search for sark021