Aus123

hi I've booked to upgrade from internal to external wastgate with e85 and tune wonder which wast gate is best value for money, good quality and good performance. current mods: - Garrett Gen2 GTX 35/84 - 1.15 rear housing - Plazmaman Intercooler Kit - Plazmaman Surge With Twin Peirburgs - Plazmaman Turboside Intake & Batt Relo - ARP Headstuds - Crow Race Springs & Retainers - 4" exforce Exhaust System - 1000cc injectors - Custom Maxx Dyno Tune Via PCMTEC making 430 on 98 and the car is manual. also how much is not too $$$ expensive, what would be cost for labour and parts included roughly. was quoted $2100 thanks

which one do you reckon is easy with engine out or remove (with out engine out.)

JETURBO I actually have gtx 3584 rs turbo with 1.15 rear housing. I am thinking "Problem 1 Turbosmart actuators are sometimes difficult to set up and there is a possibility the tuner has wound the actuator right out so it has no preload and the flapper arm has a “stub” on it that the actuator hole goes over to join the arrangement. If this has no preload the stub can rattle against the actuator hole" is the main problem other wise it wouldn't rattle. problem 2? what do you mean 1.15 rear junk housing? why is this a problem. about post 4784 looked and searched that post on the search bar, nothing come up,. (only thing I found was how you went to study tunning) . if I keep driving it like this would it hurt my turbo or engine or something as my tuner said it'll be fine. thanks in advance

Hello after long time a new post as you can see the in the video I have this rattling noise coming from somewhere from my actuator I believe (somewhere from turbo). I had this problem before, had no idea what it was. took it to my tuner a few months ago and they fixed it and said you actuate was not sitting in position and we moved it slightly into position and that fixed it. after a while the rattling noise came back and went to my tuner again to have a chat. they said no matter what we do, it always starts to come back as the (turbo or something is keeping moving itself). he said you need a external wastage setup and also said something about machining the turbo (which I din't quite understand as he was very busy). I believe its running on internal wastage as he also said your (turbo is lazy and and come on boost late) but said won't hurt anything else if I continue running as it is. just wanted to make sure of this with you great folks. whats your thought on this.

Thanks everyone for your reply. I had a chat with my tuner . They said the same thing about afr. I am working on my oil gauge reading wrong. Earthed the bottom of the sender with wire to engine didnt work. Replaced my sender didnt work. I think its the actual gauge broken.

can some one answer this question. will help me too. can a balancer removal like this used to remove it. if it works? https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/blog/how-to/servicing-and-mechanical/removing-a-harmonic-balancer.html

hello a quick question about my AFR gauge I upgrade from narrow band to wide band AFR a few weeks ago. https://www.ebay.com.au/p/AEM-X-series-Wideband-02-UEGO-Air-Fuel-Ratio-Gauge-Kit-30-0300/1364585095?iid=323277678390&chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-139619-5960-0&mkcid=2&itemid=323277678390&targetid=468725514643&device=c&adtype=pla&googleloc=9071447&poi=&campaignid=1793098739&adgroupid=74958851248&rlsatarget=aud-692203741102:pla-468725514643&abcId=1139216&merchantid=7364522&gclid=Cj0KCQjwjrvpBRC0ARIsAFrFuV-fvxkSxxg9Y3riL8cZBJXLLRDoCSHLrPntNC04kkKPheFRCeO4ZA4aAnCiEALw_wcB liked it very much as it can tell me a lot if I am running rich or lean and when cursing its around 14.7 where it should be for 98. very happy with the tune but however when cruising over 60 to 100 kmph (freeway) when not acceleration (or closed throttle) the gauge shows lean at max. here a video of it travailing on freeway and when I let the gas go you should be see ----. Wondering if this is normal or you think the tune is not right so I go back to my tuner. car is 2010 xr6t running on 98 with 431 kw for more info. thanks

hub dyno read lower than roller dyno. so basically its a little bit higher on the road then what you saw on the the hub doyno.

ecu stay with the car and dont swap the ecu. only enigne

Y must ve done how I have done. But didnt work. Plz confirm

got to this stag. wasn't sure what is the first sensor (1 grey port) is for and first I thought that is the sensor for oil pressure as it had small leak around it. can some one plz explain what those numbering I have done on the photo is for nu 1 not sure? nu 2 not sure? nu 3 not sure? nu 4 should be oil sender. nu 5 is for oil pressure that goes to the gauge. thanks

cleaned up as soon as I saw your reply, went back there this morning. the leak was there again do you mean driveshaft coupling https://www.autolinkparts.com.au/kelpro-kdc1000-tail-shaft-rubber-coupling-suit-for like this one thanks for y help

forgot to mention, I just balanced my tail shaft like 1 week ago and noticed this in there, asked them they said its oil came out of tail shaft from removing it. 1 week later later and its still there. thought might be transmission. its reddish kind of oil. thanks

hi was installing a new AFR gauge. got under the car to replace the sensor and noticed oil leak at the back of the transmission. was going to take to to workshop to ask but there are close during the weekends and couldn't wait to find out why. its 6sp manual with 430 kw any clue how and what should be done about it. what process are involved in fixing the leak or if can do it on my own.] never touched a transmission before. don't have any clue. cheers

will check out tomorrow. thanks

hey I want to fix my standard oil pressure gauge that came with the car . have this thing already installed https://www.ebay.com.au/p/Auto-Meter-AU6127-Oil-Pressure-Gauge/245151115?iid=361896552400&rt=nc it was working fine till workshop replaced my engine and since then it start being unreliable. first symptoms was, there was a few second delay from when pushing the paddle than noticed the needle wan't moving when pushing the paddle,works sometimes or jump to 75 psi at once and etc. thought that was crazy. cut to the chase, wanted to get some help on how to troubleshooting this myself as I have no idea what to look for. planning to spend some time to figure it out tomorrow and also install a new AFR gauge if I can first. from my research the gauge is not so good but is helpful at this stage as I have other plans to happen and leaving upgrading it for future. looked at the Auto Meters Manual but it was so fking confusing and couldn't find a installation guide on XR6 Forum. if you have the links and tips, just past it so I read through it., by the way its FG -T thanks

will get on to it. was very busy once done let you guys know.

I see thanks

you mean the liquid silicone off the shelf from supercheap auto. the good brand. use it on top of with gasket ? thanks mate

HI I have been looking the internet for sump (pan gasket) for my fg turbo 2010 but couldn't find any for fg models. I 've seen for ba-t and etc but not for fg. like this one that has no fg mentioned =====> https://www.autolinkparts.com.au/oil-pan-sump-gasket-suit-ford-falcon-ba-bf-fpv-6cy~53636 I am planning to put a my old oil pump into my engine from my old engine. the process don't look hard to me for now but I take any advice. about the gasket. I looked the internet couldn't find any for the for fg models so I decided to use silicon Gasket like this https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/permatex-permatex-high-temp-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker---red-311g/114971.html?cgid=SCA01081001. I assume it does same thing as a gasket rubber. would it be already to use that Silicone Gasket . about the front panel gasket. where the drive belts is. https://www.golebysparts.com.au/products/ba-bf-fg-ford-falcon-barra-timing-gasket-and-seal-set-tcs48 . is this the right one to use. thanks

thanks mate

thanks for your replay , so you are saying I can be done with the engine inside the car. do you think it worth doing it.? I don't know how common is for it to break but heard it does

Hi boys Finished putting a replacement engine in my fg. It made 430kw on 98 fuel and its manual . I forgot to tell the workshop that I had oil pumb in my old engine and it wasn’t transferred to the new motor. my questions is: can they transfer the oil pump from old motor to the new motor without taking the engine out of the car Regret it so much. I am not very technical person but I believe the oil pumb also has the housing. Thanks

whats average reading

I've bought used 2010 FG turbo motor ( roughly 100,000 KM), did the dry compression test and the result was low in 2 cylinders 170 and 190. (could it be the engine was not running for months)? afterwards did a wet test and it showed 210 across all cylinders evenly. just Wondering what is average com test result for this things.