Jonno

Agreed Puff. I have visited my mechanic and a specialist transmission shop. There is no agreement as to the cause or remedy. Opinions vary between a reconditioned transmission (quotes from $4.5K to $6.5K), Through to replacing front gearbox seal and rear main engine seal (about $1.5K). Even at one of the transmission places, the two guys disagreed as to whether the leak was engine or transmission oil. And the transmission feels like it did when it was new. So I cant understand why I would drop between $4K to $6K on a reconditioned box.

Thanks to everyone who has commented so far. If the transmission isn't leaking then how did it lose a liter of oil over the last 50,000 kms? Do these ZF transmissions use oil?

I have a series 1 BF XR6 Turbo with 202,000 kms that I have owned since new. It has the ZF 6 speed gearbox, which I have had serviced about every 50,000 kms. I had a general service done last week that cleared up oil leaks from the rocker cover and power steering pump and high-pressure hose. After that the engine was steam cleaned. As part of that service the transmission fluid level was checked and topped up with a litre of ZF Lifeguard. After parking the car in my driveway, I noticed a remaining oil leak. When I returned to the mechanic, I found that bottom front of the transmission was covered in oil (see attached image). The leaking oil is darker than the engine oil which was changed at the service (see attached image). My impression from driving the car is that the transmission is working as it always has. No hesitation, slipping etc. Any ideas?

No. You place the splines on the wiper arm in place, and then use the nut to tighten them down.

I painted them off the car. No paint got in the splines.

I have the factory arms but Bosch Blades.

I painted the wipers on my BF XR6 Turbo and fitted Bosch Aerotwin blades. Since then both wipers sometimes change their set position. So sometimes when on high speed, the drivers side wiper will bang against the windscreen pillar and sometimes it won't. This is driving me crazy. I have adjusted them many times. Does anyone know whats going on?

The plastic cover on the handbrake lever that sits next to the center console in my BF XR6T has decayed. The cover isn't available separately and only comes new with the complete handbrake lever assembly. Some used covers are available, but I suspect they will have the same issue as mine. Does anyone have a solution to replacing the plastic cover? Thanks John.

My BF XR6T factory sunroof is leaking. The front drains are clear, so I spoke to a man at Webasto who said that the rear drains may be blocked and I should blow some air through these from where they exit the car. Does anyone know where the rear sunroof drains exit the car? Wheel well? Under rear bumper? Thanks John

Thanks Ralph. Yes, the DS Performance are dusty and they chew trough the disks. But they do stop. I'll go for DBA T3s all round, and try the Project Mu pads. John

Has anyone switched from DS Performance to Project Mu? If so how do the Mu pads compare to the DS Performance? John

The stopping power of the DS Performance pads is outstanding. But they are dusty and I get though one set of DBA T3 front rotors per set of pads.

Just about to fit new T3 rotors to my 2006 BF XR6T. I have been using Ferodo DS performance pads and have been very happy. Does anyone have experience with the Projecr Mu NS400 pads? Will they be an improvement over the DS Performance?

I have owned the car from new and this is not how the air cond has worked in my car up until recently. If the Air Cond was set to Auto, and the temp to Low, the cold air would blast at maximum seconds after the engine was started.

I have a BF XR6 Turbo with dual zone climate control Air Cond. Recently the system, when left on Auto, has been slow to activate after starting the engine. And sometimes once started, the fan speed will increase and decrease before eventually settling on the correct speed. Lately while on Auto, the fan will only move off a very low speed after I switch from auto and increase the fan speed manually. There also seems to be a crackling noise coming from the fan unit. I have removed all leaves and replaced the filter, and the noise still persists. Any help would be much appreciated. John

Hi, Just posting this to help out others. My Dual Zone Air Conditioning was generating a fault code B1250. The symptom was that the passenger side air stream was not as cold as the drivers side. According to Ford the dash had to come out for diagnosis and, in the worst case, the ICC would need to be replaced. I'm guessing up to $2000 to $3000 all in. Then I found the attached service bulletin and followed its advice. Replaced the orifice tube and re-gassed. All fixed for the princely sum of $220. Jonno TSB 40 9-10 Ford HIM Part 2.pdf

My 2006 BF XR6T has dual zone air conditioning. Recently, when set on the same temperature, the passenger side air conditioning started delivering warmer air than the drivers side. Any ideas of the cause? Can I fix it myself? If no, can you recommend a good air condition place in the inner west of Sydney? Thanks John

I am after some grey suede fabric with a circle pattern cut in to re-trim the drivers set of my 2006 BF XR6T. It is obsolete in the Ford catalogue but was Ford part number: BAFF62900N5 & the interior trim description was: RVO/SVP Leather / Suede Seat trim. I have attached a pic. Thanks John

You did, and thanks for that. It's just that I got distracted, you see I thought that these technical forums were a place where questions could be asked and answered. So ideally I wasn't looking for a response along the lines of .... don't ask questions, just take your car to a mechanic.

$340 for the coils and plugs. From a dealer in original wrappers and boxes. It is not a matter of money. It is a matter of being extremely disappointed with the gross incompetence of my last high priced mechanic. Being f*cked over by fools looses its charm for me after a while. And besides - I just bought a beautiful half inch drive digital torque wrench.

And there's the rub. I haven't had a lot of luck finding a competent mechanic. Prefer the DIY approach if I can help it. At least I know that the work is done correctly.

I can't access the classifieds either, Are you please able to help? Using IE10 on a PC.

I posted a similar topic below, and the consensus was that the severe engine stutter that I am getting under load was due to a coil problem. So I replaced all the coils and plugs with genuine Ford parts, but the problem is still there. My car is an unmodified 2006 BF XR6T with 100,000 on the clock. Where to now? Thanks John.

Which heat shield(s) do I need to remove on my 2006 BF XRT in order to replace the oxygen sensor: a) the one with two bolts on the top b) the one with lots of bolts on the top c) both

That's a BA pic