RAP1D

If your just after noise then remove the hose from the stock one and pug up the hole it leaves

The low level input is accually a propper shielded cable, it just looks like separate wires on the plug. I ran a pair of 12in JLs off the stock amp and it accually did an ok job ( I did\scpnected one of the 12s and it sounded better as it didnt like 2ohms too much ). I've now changed for a mono block amp and used the low level cable, its a very low voltage signal so the gain needs to be max, but it works really well and cranks HUGE. Ive now got a massive sound in the car and only changed some splits an amp and added some subs... By the way, I had to leave the factory amp wired up. When I had it disconected the main speakers ran at full range and distorted at 22ish levels. there must be a signal sent to or from the head unit to turn the crossover on, or bypass it as there is two wires that go to the amp that I couldnt figure out what they were for... now I know

trouble is not safe to floor it ← Never safe to floor it? I gotta get these mods happening for mine then! I want no traction too

that's not good... the paint in the eng bay looks crap as it is

Dude, living on the Goldie is bling, don't be ashamed of it

No more EA silver

I used one on my ED falcon and it helped in reducing lag and stopped the brake booster from melting... when I got the engineers report done I had to get rid of the blanket and use a steel cover. So from my experience they are good for reducing a bit of lag

Ive used GCG plenty of times, always helpfull.

What about just using 1/4 or 1/2 throttle until its safe to floor it?? You still gonna crap on most cars

Welcome, and well done on dumping the old bent 8... dont we just love beating them

If its feeling down on power it maybe needs a tune up... or you got used to the power it has. Bee at the back... poke around yourself to find whats doing the noise, could be a loose bit of trim. Clonking in the front could be strut mounts, bushes... too many things in the front end too even consider, maybe get it looked at by a decent ie not Peddlers suspension shop

Forget those pimp my ride 22s... DISH, get some serious dish on the back of that ute!!! 20x10s

Yeah just an all out drivers car... imagine one with a pair of GT42's and all the goodies to support them

F40 and an open cheque book to make it do 9s

You have to use the up/down button on the dash.

Nah, it was black with meathead driving it

Gee that's a good result. Whats it like to drive... like, on the freeway overtaking and around town

Whats with these magna drivers modding there cars and thinking they are now a quik car?? I had one with a stupid big cannon poking out its bum trying to catch me last weekend... it was a waste of petrol just to make him look stupid

Pinging, pinking... its all slang for detonation

That or a sevo selling 95 as 98... who knows where those pipes go under the ground...

Just dont floor it... its when the motors under load that its detonating... id say its fine if you just cruise around normally for the time being

Yeah most cars have knock sensors but they only work on minor pinging that usually wouldnt even be heard... If you can hear pinging then its really really serious as most light pinging isnt even loud enough to hear

Get 'em to rectify it mate, and fast. ← Befor you break a ringland

Yeah detonation ( pinging ) in your case is coming from too much advance timing at around 3500 rpm. This is a high load point for turbo 6s and its usually where detonation will show up most. Id try it on the 8psi map until you can have it re tuned. the tuner obviously set the advance a degree or so too high and combined with 10psi is causing detonation. If the 8psi tune has the same timing map then it should be fine to run on 8psi under the higher load of the extra bums in the back.

Lowest Ive got down to is 20kays... its a really heavy car and Im not keen on pushing the sucker