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Leigh is a genius with welding. Very competive price and outstanding product

This is my McDonald bros setup in ute. You have to do away with subframe and fuel tank in sedan.

I have injectors (60lb Siemens) and Bosch Motorsport external pump 909 (500hp). If your interested pm me. A lot cheaper than new. I won't be needing them anymore

I plan on putting a bigger tyre on and most likely destroke the motor ect and then it will be a little different to compare. But it's always the same. Who's actually prepared to go the most extreme takes the win. Lol. While I still have the bug for this car I will make the most of it

I understand where adam is coming from and yeah it's good to see you haven't changed. :-). I want to try and put a ute somewhere near these sedan boys because at the moment we are getting thrashed. Lol. I'm doing all this becaus I know that's the only choice with this car. One of those things. Gone to far to sell it. Ha ha. May as well waste more money on it.

Adam it still retains the 4.0 for now and will leave it there fOr the start. And the chassis has been modified to fit the wheels. It will still run a 10.5 Inch wide tyre so I don't see how it would be an advantage unless I ran a much wider tyres. The leaf spring and body are designed to tow loads in the falcon and nothing else. The cars others describe are sporty cars to start with

I intially wanted the record which I dont think will be hard. I want to make a new benchmark for these utes, pretty confident I will. lol its called persistance. ha ha

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So it's been a while, things have been slow but slowly but surely getting there having a big change in plans now. I will be getting the car back from McDonald bros racing next weekend, ended up going full race 4 link setup, shortened strange 9" diff, 31 spline moser billet axles, Full spool and also got it mini-tubbed while it was there. Going to sell the c9 that's in it now and go with a Neil chance powerglide and converter from the states. Still unsure on engine may replace it with a 3.7 destroked motor revving to 9,000rpm due to mine only having standard diameter arp head studs. Really need 14mm. The fuel cell is sitting here waiting for the car to make it back so I can't start work on it. 1/2 inch lines throughout, process west fuel rail with a turbo smart fpr2000 regulator and I'd,2000cc injectors, also have (x2) 044 bosch pumps and an 909 bosch pump as a pre pump to a 2.5 ltr surge tank. I have photos of the exhaust manifold I will post shortly. Very impressive design and perfect flow design. Thanks again Leigh

Heres a snipet of its true meaning and use: Harmonic balancer lower pulley on a four-cylinder engine A harmonic balancer (also called crank pulley damper, crankshaft damper, torsional damper, or vibration damper) is a device connected to the crankshaft of an engine to reduce torsional vibration and serves as a pulley for drive belts.[1][2] Every time the cylinders fire, torque is imparted to the crankshaft. The crankshaft deflects under this torque, which sets up vibrations when the torque is released. At certain engine speeds the torques imparted by the cylinders are in synch with the vibrations in the crankshaft, which results in a phenomenon called resonance. This resonance causes stress beyond what the crankshaft can withstand, resulting in crankshaft failure. To prevent this vibration, a harmonic balancer is attached to the front part of the crankshaft. The damper is composed of two elements: a mass and an energy dissipating element. The mass resists the acceleration of the vibration and the energy dissipating (rubber/clutch/fluid) element absorbs the vibrations. Additionally the energy transferred from the piston to the crankshaft can induce as much as 2 degrees of twist in the crankshaft, which has many follow-on effects on all engine elements that require adequate timing such as valve opening, cam timing, ignition timing etc. Over time, the energy dissipating (rubber/clutch/fluid) element can deteriorate from age, heat, cold, or exposure to oil or chemicals. Unless rebuilt or replaced, this can cause the crankshaft to develop cracks, resulting in crankshaft failure. Performance enthusiasts have been known to remove harmonic balancers, usually when the balancer is attached to the crank pulley, deciding that they aren't necessary and their mass reduces the performance of the engine. However, this is unproven and potentially very risky because the danger of damage to the engine from the vibrations the damper is intended to prevent is too high.[citation needed] Certain cars, however, do not come equipped with an external balancer on the crank pulley, and as such, can have the pulley replaced with a performance oriented product which counter-acts these resonance frequencies. [edit]See also Noise and vibration on maritime vessels [edit]References Inline ^ "Car Talk", March 2000, retrieved on 2009-12-10. ^ Definition of Harmonic balancer", Online Dictionary, retrieved on 2009-12-10. General http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/engine/mopp_081027_crankshaft_damper/index.html http://www.atiracing.com/products/dampers/sae.htm All in all lighter will only cause crankshaft failure with in reason

I'd agree they work on standard to mild applications. I'd agree with ninka with the torsional vibration without the extra weight would be detrimental to the bottom end espicially the crankshaft if u could run light or no pulley why would car companies even put them on.

Very nice. It blows me how the best time is 9.79 from a ute. Oh well. I plan on well and truly nudging that. And if all goes to plan I should give it a proper bench mark. Lol. If the thing ever gets Finished. Lol. Slow process working with performance orientated people

Very impressed Ivan. Goes very well and he even had his mattress and sleeping bag in the back while running it. Theres ya 10.5 there. Lol. Great effort though. Just an all round great package I thought. More impressive it's your ONLY means of transport and work ute

Looking good. I like your seat idea. I will def be doing that. As for tub. I'm all for light weight but after having a bit to do with racing a ba ute. U will have alot of trouble with traction and to add to it. Leafs are good in the right chassis. Ford intended this car to tow with a load nothing else. The dynamics of the car are just not suited to drag. I took alot of weight from mine. From the back. And had nothing but traction issues. The car would have actually gone quicker with all the weight in it. In the end I've opted to go full house race 4 link setup. I find it was my only option. If you plan on goin deep into the tens and under the leaf rear end in the xr just won't cut it Looks good though. Good power slides :-)

Ok so standard turbo decided to blow a seal. Damn. Lol. So just purchased a brand new gtx4202r. Etm is making me a manifold with twin gates and 5 Inch intake. Still waiting on m Donald bro s to give nod for 9 inch. Got Some 1000cc injectors. Starting to come along now.

Isn't that rdp ute they had years ago. If it is done 10.1 and then disappeared off the radar

Hi torque with a 9.79. I

The full 4link setup made for ba. Remove tank etc. the 4link is getting made up as we speak. And il arrange a 9 inch soon to go in. Hopeing to have it don't in next 2 weeks. It's not rubbed yet stainonigger. It's deceiving that photo. The wheels actually stick out of the guards and inch or so. That's the reason I even considered shortening diff

Can only use wet system with forced induction. Wet is adjustable fuel and nitrous solenoids. Dry is adjustable nitrous only and generally just bumps fuel pressure up( not knowing the quantity of fuel) Its mounted less than 10 cm in piping in front ofthrottle body,right in the centre of the intake tube. By using say 50-70 hp pill. The real world numbers are more than double that due to its cooling ability therefore ramping engine pOwer up. I have around 70 hp shot and make around 60-80rwkw gain.

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Yeah it will be a challange but it will make the horsepower needed. Just a matter of tweaking this suspension setup to get it to grip. I dont want to pump huge horsepower just yet until I can get the ute to 100 percent grip. Once that's sorted I'll then start winding it up. That will be the biggest challege with these things. I've always ran the same mph as all the sedans with same horsepower, just always had trouble with traction. Ha ha rip hsv. The whole reason I started back at this because when I looked I couldn't believe the 9.79 was the fastest. And it stood at. 9.89 for a while. Now it seems I'm not the only one with that idea. Oh well. I'll have fun trying anyway

Yeah I'm leaning towards a strange 9 inch. Prob chase one up elsewhere from McDonald bros though. Yes it has been a while since I seen u last, your ute is doing really Well these days. I wanted to Keep the turbo combo to a minimum. Will be pumping a fair bit of nos in to Be getting the power up. The way it comes on is unbelievable. U can't get that from turbo. Well the instant throttle Response and torque. Was thinking t04z or if I get real excited I will go for t51 or gt42. Will post photos when I get to a computer. Looking worse for wear. Hasn't been moved in months and just gathering dust until last week

Ok. So it's been years since I last posted on this forum. The old ute has been gathering dust for quiet some time now and I've finally got the bug back and the goal is to take down the ute record. I've recently just purchased new plazmaman plenum, McDonald bros racing 4 link rear end setup. Currently being made. Also brought some brand new Convo pro wheels and new front runners and slicks. Now getting them home and the offset is a bit off. Unsure whether to shorten standard diff or go for a 9 inch. I've also recently put 90/10 front coil over shocks in. Future mods are 4 inch dump. Possibly new turbo /manifold combo. 4 inch intake. Fuel cell and new surge tank as the 4 link goes where the fuel tank sits and will need to modify exhaust to fit around new rear end. Then a retune. Will post some progress pictures soon

Around 3000rpm @ 100 km/h