FastR1Red

hmm, bought mine in 2005, did 10,000km then started the upgrades, first tune dune in 2005 as well, second 2006 with a few more mods. A few more mods in 2007 at around 50,000km. It's nearly 2012, and I've done 185,000km with over 300rwkw since 2007. I don't drive it hard though, just the occasional blast through the mountains. Still going just as strong, albeit I do baby it around.

AND it's registered as a LAMS bike (Learner Approved Motorcycle Scheme) with the relevent marking on the rego label. As a first bike you really do need the experience on the lower powered bikes, much safer for everyone and a hell of a lot cheaper to run/maintain.

That ain't a bad old rocket, very good in its time and still a great bike now. Do you have a full licence as this can't be ridden on restricted/LAMS etc?

At 92KG you'll definately need front springs as a minimum. Valving is a bit slow but manageable. Is that 92kg with your gear on or without?

+1 I have the Optima blue to marine cos it has the extra terminals. (I run a lot of radio gear with 7 transmitters in the boot. Not all transmitting at the same time but they're all on and receiving with at leat 2 transmitting)

That's what I use...good stuff. Go for a quick spin around the block and wipe off any that's come off on the guards,,no more comes off, and it's super shiney...love it. BTW, mine T is Yellow/Rapid so you can see everything on it.

Adobe Photoshop CS5 is still current and highly supported. Paintshop Pro is far easier to use and a lot cheaper. Gimp is free and has some good features of both Photoshop and Paintshop.

Well err ummm, I had to put ANOTHER antenna on the car yesterday for one of the new systems..... That's SEVEN now...LOL.....

I installed a 100cpi cat for my last epa pullover. Passed easily.

Damn,,,really? If that's correct I know I'll get done for that too....

Something inside the brake booster. He said it's a common problem on BA's and 2 ways to fix depending on severity.

Mine did exactly the same thing. I complained about it twice to my normal service guys they never fixed it. I took it to MC2 Automotive in Dandenong last week and he fixed it immediately. Helps cos he knows BA's back to front. Top bloke. He also fixed a few other stuff ups the other guys did.

GOt mine frm the group buy on here. Got it cut for $35, programmed myself, easy as.

Just hope you guys are using either a GPS or calibrated speedo or track/lap timer to do your speed measurements. XR6 - With mine 260 on the speedo is actually 245 on the gps. At 250 (gps) it was very flighty with the stock suspension. Once I put the coilovers in 265 became easy and it was still a fair bit left. 1999 R1, geared to 285 at PI on the limiter in 6th. (read 305 before calibration) 2005 R1, geared to 290 at PI on the limiter in 6th. (read 315 before calibration) 2009 R1, geared to 285 at PI on the limiter in 6th. Very different bike to ride. All above was done with calibrated speedo and gps laptimer.

Indeed pictures say a thousand words but the eye says more. Agreed P&S has come a long way but really when you're looking for sharpness, DOF, colours etc there is no comparison. The instant wow factor when you look at a photo from a P&S is great, then when you see the same shot taken with a DSLR it knocks you off your feet. I have a D5000 for sale at the moment with all the gear in practically brand new condition. I'd say give one a try and see how you go. There's a big difference.