KBB

wheels are all garrett made. Ford would have had to cast their own turbine housing as garrett doesn't make anything bigger than an .7 AR internally gated exhaust housing. compressor a/r has minimal influence on output. lower ratio cover (ie .5 a/r ) would offer slight efficiency improvement (no more than 3-4%) at higher flow levels than numerically higher one. Essentially the peak efficiency eyebrow would shift up and right the lower the a/r number exhaust ar is critically important in contrast. cause the motor is so large, displacement wise, 1.06 is your starting point. If you are willing to trade a little response ie increase lag you would get a better top end with a 1.31 if available. Definitely don't go lower than 1.06 or you'll 'choke' the engine. Ideally you want absolutely no more than a 3:1 ratio of turbine pressure to intake pressure. Really efficient set ups can acheive a 1:1 ratio for a small operating window. If you went lower than 1.06 the exhaust manifold pressure would skyrocket and rob heaps of top end power.

recommendation of 0W/40 would suggest the clearances used by Ford are very small ie 1-2 thou.

Castrol formula R synthetic is probably the best oil you can buy, but as to what viscosity you should use, you need to know what main and big end clearances ford run in the motor to get the right oil. If the clearance is 2.5 thou or larger, 10w60 is good but if it is built really tight which alot of engines are these days, like 1 - 2 thou, you need like a 5/30 type oil that can get into those really small spaces. the 10/60 is for race engines that generally run 3 thou plus of clearance in the mains, too allow a decent oil cushion between the bearing and the journal

Small burnout??!?!?! My mate with Nitto 275/45/17s ran a 1.62 60 foot time with a manual supra, the key AT LEAST 20 second burnout at 100 km/h (ie 2nd or 3rd gear), they stick almost as well as a slick with that much heat. 15 psi. A couple of BBC Chevelles ran as low as 1.4 60's on nittos and that is all they could muster on their slicks.

you know that there are hundreds of tremec shifters avaiable in the states for USD$169-$179, comes with knob and stick too! B&M, PRO 5.0, Steeda, Mac, Hurst, UPR and so on...

yes the faulty AFM not only causes a lean condition but also gives the engine more timing than it is supposed to have because it thinks the load is less than what it really is hence more timing where less is required. Bad combination, causes extremely high cylinder temps.

:lol: :lol: :lol:

That is a logical assumption based on capacity, but unfortunately, it is nowhere near as simple as that, by that I mean the science of turbine housings. I could explain but gotta go build drift car! Simple explanation is 1.06AR + GTR = laggy bas*ard KB

for what its worth, running 275/17" nittos in a manual RWD supra we managed to pull a 1.63 60 foot time with 15 psi in the tyres. Found that 20 psi does not hook that well at all. Also, hooked even better on 13 psi and did not affect top end. the longer the burnout the better they hook around 15 seconds in 2nd seems to work well. Try to reverse back over your burnout too.

well I didn't make up the dyno figures, that is what the dyno said. Anyone at Autosalon would have seen it. Everyone knows trap speed and weight gives an accurate power figure but like I said, slipping clutch means some of the power is lost through the drivetrain instead of going to the wheels so MPH is lost, so if the clutch wasn't slipping the MPH would have been up. I think it was making 525rwkw on the 140mph run. ALso, if you put the T turbo on the 2.6 without address the 1.06 AR exhaust housing you too will experience nothing below 5000rpm. VL turbo and 'fun to drive' should never appear in the same sentence. The VL Late model camira is without doubt one of the sh*ttest cars I have ever driven. anyway, it was built for some drags and dyno work, is as laggy as all sh*t but from 6K - 9.5K is a real hoot It's not my car anyway, so no point shooting the messenger!

Yeah I tuned that car. Best mph is 140 with slipping clutch. Got an excellent clutch now, Jim Berry custom twin plate, way better than the 3 plate OS Giken, just haven't been back to the track to give it a go. It may be a waste, but have you ever driven a 1000hp GTR on the street, its heaps of fun!

properly tuned 2530's should make at least 330 rwkw. Your mate needs to go see someone with some skills! On race fuel up to 420 rwkw is available with right setup

I have had a few 500rwkw+ and ++ runs on Dynowogs dyno at Autosalon, highest was 617rwkw. This was about 40 rwkw more than it made on the Dyno Dynamics. Also pulled a 575rwkw with another car at Autosalon that was 535rwkw on the Dynodynamics, so I agree with APS in this instance about the retarder dying in the arse. The dyno dynamics they use at HP Heroes uses twin retarders to adequately handle the huge power of some of the TT V8s. KBB

very typical of an electrical short circuit I reckon

yeah cut out the centre muff it sounds heaps better you can hear the turbo and it is quite burbly when crusiing around

Hang on do you want radial drag tyres or just grooved drag slicks. Most of the tyres mentioned above are not radials. I have raced a few 10 second cars on Nitto's and they are awesome, provided you run the right pressures less than 18psi and cook them before the run. Obviously the Nittos are radials as are the BFG Drag Radial TA's, I know a few guys who run the TA's and they are just as good as the Nittos and easier to get. MT have just released a drag radial but I don't know if they are available here yet. If you use non radials you need cross ply front runners as well, and they are not cheap and pretty useless for anything other than drag. Driving around on the drag radials on the street you hardly notice they are on there

WHERE'S the VID!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

when you are trailling the throttle right, ie just touching it or backing off after a bootful?? You either have a laek in a flange somewhere and fresh oxygen is mixing with hot exh gasses, BOOM or if the system is straight thru enough fresh oxygen will make its way up the tail pipe to the hotter gas coming down and mix and explode

In the beginning....hahhaha most turbos simply were feed oil to lubricate the bearings, that were simple flat bearings not unlike what you'll find in the bottom end of your motor. The shaft spins in the bearing and the oil lubricates it all. When the turbine housing is very hot and you switch off your engine, the oil in the bearing race remains there because the engine is not running the engine is not pumping the oil through the cartridge or the bearing housing if you will. When oil remains in the bearing race when the turbo (being the cartridge and the turbine housing both being cast iron elements) is extremely hot the oil gets extremely hot. Oil doesn't like getting extremely hot and at high temp carbonises or breaks down and leaves deposits. Oil also does not transfer heat to adjoining oil very well either, which really doesn't matter, because when the engine is off, there really isn't any oil around in the cateridge other than the bit trapped in the bearing race anyway. SO the turbo timer was invented. When the ignition was switched off the engine would keep going and pumping oil through the cartridge of the turbo and the bearing race. The exhaust gases produced at idle are not terribly hot and as the car idles, the turbine housing and the cartridge and the bearing race all cool down and the shaft spins very slowly, itself not generating much heat on the bearing surface. After a minute or two, all temperatures reduce to a level whereby when the engine is switched off, the bearing race is not hot enough to carbonise or coke the oil and hence, the next time you start up there are no carbon like deposits on the bearing race to f*ck up your bearing or shaft. When the bearing and shaft are healthy, the seals are not stressed either. When you don't idle down your non water cooled turbo (oil cooled is a misnomer really cause without the oil you would not have a turbo) it really doesn't last long. Just ask early ET/EXA owners. When you do, it last for ages. But the turbo timer is really not something passenger car manufacturers could fit from the factory. What factory car come with one. What factory would fit a device that left the car running when you turned it off and locked it up and walked off. People (Today Tonight type viewers) would be outtraged. Hence the water jacket turbo was devised!!! Water is an excellent heat exchanger and heat travels well through a body of water. Hence, when you turn off your hot turbo with water jacketed cartridge, the oil stops flowing, but the water jacket effectively cools the cartridge, shaft and bearing race sufficiently to avoid cooking and coking the oil in the bearing. Shaft and bearing stays healthy as there are no cooked on oil deposits and turbo is OK. As the water gets heated by the hot cartridge, the heat transfers out through the entirety of the engines water because all the water in the engine is joined to other water, unlike the sh*tty little bit of oil left in the cartridge. The moral of the story is with water jacket turbos you don't really need the timer as you do with the non water cooled turbo. Garrett who produces the XR6T turbocharger say timer is not required at all for the reasons outlined above. That said however, if you really have been leaning on it around a track all day, it is better to allow the water to do its job assisted by the water pump cooling things thru the radiator, cause water temp rises after shutdown and it is also beneficial to keep that oil flowing thru until the oil temp comes down to a pleasant level, to get the best of both worlds. KB

not offended but don't agree at all reallym the 3" enters the cat and comes out as a twin 2.25" system, so there is plenty of time for the gas to redirect itself thru the pipes. The intake manifold might be good for something maybe low to mid range torque, but then, I always thought turbos were good for that too. I don't want any more low to mid/low range performance I want unrestricted power that comes with short fat runners and a large plenum volume, a la Nizpro intake kit. And what so the point of a long runner .5L plenum volume when you have about 33 metres of intercooler plumbing? I agree Ford does alot of engineering but their goals and my goals are many miles apart. Further the intake & cooler piping is only the way it is because the engineerings had to deal with the fact that the battery and airbox are on the wrong sides and they were not going to change that for the turbo motor.

oh, there is one other problem with the auto that hasn't been mentioned here....it's an auto! It's quicker in a straight line, ok, but that's about all it's good for. If you like manuals overs auto's, go with the manual, esp as the T56 is good for 800hp. Factory rating is 600hp/550 lbs/ft but, many have run up to and over 800 without failure Ford is using the 31 spline (cobra/vette/viper) input shaft too, not the crappy 26 spline Late model camira downgrade.

is the centre muffler straight thru design or no? I am guessing no. Cause the surface area of the twin 2.25" system is actually greater than a single three inch, so you'd be crazed to scrap the twin 2.25" in favour of a single 3" cause twin 2.25" will flow better and sound better to boot. 3.5" would be an improvement but would drone a great deal. I reckon the whole intake system is crap cause the plenum has no volume, the piping is way too long and goes in all the wrong places (hot spots) and looks like garbage, and the cooler is too small. KB

yeah the Ford logo on the turbine housing is a bit of a giveaway!

With the amount of T56's Tremec pumps out each day and the number of cars fitted with T56's, it would not be a supply issue from Tremec.

Most turbo Nissans use the water based oil coolers they are very small and only coolant passes through them so when the cooling medium is already 90 deg C you can be pretty sure they aren't really very good, and to that the very small area exposed to the coolant and you can be pretty sure they aren't much good. A proper front mounted air exchanger is much better when you consider a decent ized one will have at least 1000% greater surface area