Peter_M

any ideas if my injectors are stock or upgraded?

Ok so just checked the injectors to see what type they are and they are blue and are printed as 0 280 156 123 which I believe are the factory ones? this doesn't make sense to me as when I bought the car the injectors had been done, and I'm not sure how I possible got 275rwkw with std injectors? Injectors aside, apart from the mods listed everything else is stock.. In regards to the HP Tuner experience ramp rate, can you elaborate on how the tuner software itself did that? It does make abit of sense because shortly after I got it tuned, my ecu did fry itself... but its been fine ever since.

Hi Guys, I currently have a 2003 BA XR6 Turbo and has the following mods: - Cold air intake, right handside kit (not battery relocation) - Replaced valve springs - 4 Speed BTR has been built by DTM Auto's in geelong - Monza (ebay) cooler - Hi flow injectors - 3" Dump pipe I had it tuned by Dynomotive in Bayswater and they managed to get 275RWKW with the mentioned mods however my aim was to get 300rwkw. Dynomotive use the HP tuner instead of the SCT handheld device, so I am not sure if that had any impact? What am I missing here to get to the 300rwkw mark? All feedback will be greatly appreciated. Regards, Peter

I got a second hand ba motor, only problem is it doesn't have the upgraded valve springs that my old motor did... so will have to get that replaced abit later down the track..

I've decided to just replace the motor with a second hand bare motor and do a straight swap, car won't ever go over 300rwkw, so I'm guessing it's my best option?

Hi All, Recently my 2003 Ba Xr6 Turbo 4spd auto was running low on oil, and my brother took out the car while I was on holidays unfortunately, and after a while of arguing he finally admitted he was thrashing it. The car has been tuned to 285rwkw with some basic mods such as valve springs, cooler, and a strengthened box. The end result was me coming home to a motor that was badly ticking, after taking it to a local mechanic of mine, he said that the ticking was coming from the bottom of the motor and is pretty certain the bottom end has shat itself. Now I just would like some advice on the various options and rough price tags on getting this repaired, whether it will involve buying a bare motor, or what can be done as I'm not too sure of my options. Any input/advice will be greatly appreciated. Regards, P

Hi All, My 03 4 spd auto ba xr6t is having an issue on startup. When started (generally on cold start) the revs go high which I assume is natural for a tuned xr6t but then stay high for like 15-20 seconds sometimes more, and if I go to put it into any other gear, the engine light comes on and the car will auto stall. It has a wog cooler, upgraded valve springs, 42lb deka injectors, rebuilt auto, cold air intake and tuned to 280rwkw. The following codes have come up on a test: P0171 - System too lean P0238 - Lack of HO2s - 11 Switches indicates lean (B1, S1) P2105 - Throttle actuator control system - forced engine shutdown (assuming when I try to put into gear when revs are so high at startup) P2110 - Throtle actuator control system - forced limited RPM. I have also noticed under WOT I feel the boost having gaps, I can even hear the induction gaps from the CAI... Can anyone give me their 2 cents as I am totally lost at the moment. Absolutely any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Cheers,

Thankyou very much mate.

Not for the ABU214 that im looking for***

Doesn't seem to have any ECU's for the turbo 4 speed... Unless im missing something?

I've call roughly like 20 wreckers in Melbourne, nothing at all!

Hello all, After a lot of researching and testing for the problems of my car going into limp mode it has been found that the ECU is cooked.. I have a 2003 BA XR6T 4 SPD AUTO and I am trying to replace the ECU. It apparently is the early ECU's which is a ABU214.. Can anyone help me/give me advice where I can find a second hand ECU that will suit my car, or any other options that are available to me? Thanks in advance! Also forgot to add I have contacted Injectronics and Logicar, and they both are unable to help.. The ECU is beyond repair, my only option is to replace it.. And NO ONE has any of the ones im after!

Why is it so much more common for people to use flash boxes for edits?

Hey All, I have been looking around to get my 03 BA XR6T car tuned.. It was tuned at a well known performance workshop before I bought it, but realized I didn't receive a 'flash tuner box' with it. I called the workshop and they told me that they rarely work with 'flash box's' and that they dyno tune it straight to the car. So my question is, (sorry if this sounds very stupid) but is it possible to tune a xr6t without these 'sct flash tuners'?

hey guys, On the weekend I fitted a aftermarket autotechnica cold air intake and monza cooler and I topped up the coolant that I noticed was quite low, and ever since I have done that the problem as stopped... I just don't know what to think now.. Very weird!

Hey Kenny, thanks heaps for the reply, I think I'm just going to take my car in to dynomotive and get them to give it a good diagnosis. On a side note, it happened multiple times today, never happens in morning, only after cars been driven, then let to rest, then start up again. I have noticed that the car does not idle properly when it is 'Flashing D' or in 'Limp Mode' and I also noticed I hear a clicking noise coming from the block. The last thing I did to the car was replace a single coil in the block that was buggered.. Could this have any relation? Also in regards to the trans-cooler, theres nothing on the invoice about a trans cooler... is there any way of checking if fluid has leaked, or if I have a transcooler at all?

Sorry guys, meant Geelong not Frankston.. I have spoken to afew blokes with abit of experience with the xr6t's and all three of them said last time they encountered this issue it was an ECU issue.. Logicar do ECU tests for $120 which I think is my next option, and if a problem is found, the test fee is waived and I'm only charged the repair costs.. Keddy, by saying theres water in the box, what do you mean by that? What am I meant to do to fix/diagnose it, and what are my options? Thanks for all the replies guys, its really appreciated!

Thanks for your help so far its been great. Battery got tested today and its fine. Everyone is pushing me towards the ECU being fried... Is there anyway I can test the ECU? Autologic has quoted me $120 for the test (I need to remove and physically give them the ECU), then if it needs repairing, they waive the test fee and just charge the repair fee. I'm not really sure of what else to do, all the plugs seem to be in fine, connector on auto is fine, earth is fine... theres nothing in the coolant... I HATE THIS!

anyone? I'm prepared to buy a slab of beer/pay someone if they can help me fix this...

I also remember hearing a click noise when I started the car afew times a while back, could this be related? Also just did the test, car dropped to about 10 when car was started...

hey mate thanks for the reply, so a load test means that, I connect the multimeter to the battery, and have someone start the car, and watch if the volts drop below 10?

I have exact same problem with those codes aswell, did you end up working out what it was?

So I tested the battery with a multimeter, it is a 550cca and it came up as follows: Car off - 13.06 Car Running - 14.47 I'm not too sure about batterys and voltage but do these figures look right?

now you have really worried me, im pretty sure if its under warranty that means its under warranty regardless of the owner?

Yeah I think I will clear fault codes, disconnect battery, let it all reset and see what happens. I still have the invoice and its covered by a 12 month warranty, only issue is I didn't get the work done, the guy who sold it to me did, but the warranty should still apply to me right?