riptide

There was a bit of a miss under boost initially but a new set of plugs fixed that and she seems all good now. I stuck a cheap set of BKR6E's in gapped to 0.8 ($5.90 each). I'm a little nervous on the pedal but working my way up gradually, making good solid power so far and frying up in second ok.

Just thinking of what might have killed my last motor. Maybe from the intank pickup like a bad hose connection.

Thanks for the comments. All good food for thought. I'm liking that 180 bend on your supply hiddeous, could do with one on mine. Maybe the tank should be a little bigger in volume but I used what material I had and really only put it in to get the bubbles out (hence the return to tank hose at the top) and to keep constant pressure and I figured that the pump supplying the surge tank doesn't need to supply much pressure, just flow volume. I have a walbro 340 intank pump (the one with the over-size pickup) but I was thinking of changing back to the original in-tank pump which should be heaps enough to keep the pot full and it would be quieter. I have the surge-tank installed now and even without the rubber isolators on the pump clamp feet I am surprised how quiet it is. Not what I expected after watching some youtube clips I have a pretty decent rising rate regulator I was thinking of installing but not really sure if there would be any benefit? I will probably be staying with fairly low rwkw with the BA motor. Just whatever boost the standard actuator with gutted cat will hold running with the 60lb injectors. Probably around 300ish I'm guessing? Chris

I have made a surge tank and will be installing it next week. Should be pretty easy now that the hard part is done. If that doesn't fix the engine miss I will have to test my coils and plugs and maybe test the injectors on my mates flow machine.

My understanding of a rising rate fuel regulator is that as your boost increases the diaphragm allows more fuel pressure to compensate for the increased air pressure at the injector entry point into the manifold. I am thinking of fitting one myself

Are the rods ok for that kind of rwkw? It's not a nice feeling when they exit the block I would suggest doing the surge tank first

Looks like we are about 2 years too late

I have relocated mine to the boot and had a auto sparkie do the wiring and he ran the heavy duty cable from the battery to the starter motor and used the starter motor cable to supply the rest of the car. Saves running the cable too far and seems to work well

I'm no expert but if I was you I would go for under battery intake, intercooler, throttle body relocation kit, better cat and a tune if I was you. That should give a bit of noise, better torque and response, reasonable economy and reliability if the tune is done right (custom) If you can afford an FG I would say go for it. No point spending good money on a car you might sell soonish. Chances are you won't get any of it back on re-sale and the FG will be safer to mod. Just my 2c

Would coils cause detonation? and the lighter colour in the combustion chamber? I would be cautious about doing cams too because I've read a lot of stuff in the forums here and don't recall coming across that either. I would have thought a good intake, exhaust, intercooler, pump, injectors, valve springs and fuel supply with your built engine would be the go. A bigger turbo might also help and I read about dropping the compression ratio to allow increased boost. Not sure what level that might be required though. Maybe do the cam on a NA motor but not a turbo? I will happily be corrected if I'm wrong, I'm just repeating stuff I read

I'm getting a bit of a miss on boost so taking it fairly easy until I sort it. I think that may have been what killed my last engine because it did the same thing. I'm wondering if it's a fuel pump issue (intank walbro) getting some air bubbles in the line or losing pressure or maybe a couple of injectors playing up. It seemed to be more noticeable in the morning when it was cooler on the old motor. When I stripped the dead engine to have a look I noticed #1 and #5, which broke the rods, looked lighter in colour around the valve area under the head and #5 had aluminium spatter stuck to it. Any help would be much appreciated

Hey mate, you go for it if you're talking about the gear in the classifieds. I can't see myself being flush for a few months yet anyway

Cheers for the info. For the Spool engine kit with freight and dollar conversion and GST I would be looking at about 3k which I don't think the mrs will go for atm. Maybe I could just put my 60lb injectors back in for safety and leave the stock actuator in place to keep boost down and see what results I get? I will look into that gear in the classifieds, thanks

I notice on the Nizpro site it says "Note: MkII BF and F6 models don't require Cobra valve springs or conrods to be fitted" So you have a BA right? and the springs and rods aren't fitted? I might have to get the spanners out again and put my 60lb'ers and 12.7psi actuator back in ready for the tune next week. I really would love to know what a safe power level is. At least my engine is easier to work on now and I'm getting plenty of practice

Can't argue with that I have taken a few pics of what I have been doing. repower and plenum pics At least I am back on the road now and can tow the boat. I know the plenum is not textbook but it seems to give me plenty of low down torque with very little delay. I opted to put the throttle body on top so flow would be even 3 cylinders each side. I also did a screwdriver job on the cat. I am running the standard BF tune from when I bought the car and it seems way different. I even get a better, clean sound from the bov which vents to atmo. I will be getting a tune next week and wanted to know if the BA T is the same motor as the ZF T pre 06/06. My mate has an early BF that goes real well so was going to transplant that tune with a few adjustments on the boost to compensate for the gutted cat. What is the max boost I can safely run? Will up a pic of the completed job soon.

I got a long BA T for $1000 to put in the car to get me around so I can do a rebuild on the spare block with spool rods and cp pistons. Should land the rebuild kit for under 3k but will have to find the cash first. Not exactly sure of the power but I think it was over 16psi boost (too much). It really went well for about a week I have made myself a new plenum while the car's off the road and am thinking of removing the heat exchanger so it doesn't ruin the trans. Looking at options to replace it. Any suggestions?

Speaking of breeding, Idiocracy was a good movie. It seems to be people on welfare that breed the fastest by far

Very nice luland. Do you know what rwkw you're putting out? I hear you can get about 190-200 without too much expense with good speed off the mark

What I might do is just stick it in to get me around for now and get it tuned with low boost to see if it will run. I have been looking at some Spool rods with pistons for $2000AUD. From there I'm not sure yet but it will buy me some time. Stripped a bit more of the motor today. Took the throttle body and top off the intake manifold and it's "full" of coolant and oil and aluminium shavings. Not looking good for the head.

Is there something wrong with the BA block? I was under the impression they were the same part number?

I appreciate the advice but I priced up a short typhoon from Ford and it's $5,175. I thought I might be able to build up a motor with decent rods etc over time ready for swapping out. My boss runs a race car with a na 3.8L v6 Expensive Daewoo with a flat 6psi boost and does real well so I was hoping to do similar. I just need to get it back on the road to tow the boat and get around You guys in Oz are lucky to have so many options. Most of the NZ performance shops specialize in Jap cars and Ford NZ tuck you hard Even the wreckers want about $4000nz for a long BA turbo.

Started stripping parts off the engine ready to remove from the car. Turbo looks good still. Looks like #1 and #5 have snapped the rods. #1 has put a hole through each side of the sump but #5 has cut the sump in half and part of the block. When I removed the turbo, parts of the block fell out and I thought it was the turbo falling apart. I have been given a BA non turbo engine. Does anyone know if it can be put straight in the BF and strap the turbo on? I thought there may be issues with compression (what boost can be safely run), the cams, no auto cooler mounts on the sumpand turbo oil return needs drilling. So if you know the answer to any of these things or can direct me to a thread I would appreciate it. I will post some pics when I get the motor out

Hi Steve Had it in perf mode going up a hill at about 100k's and gave it some gas and it just power surged then bogged, then went bangity bang flash and died. Guessing it was just too much boost or something. There are holes at the front of the sump on each side and a big one at the back above the cross member which blew straight down through the oil baffle plate and all. Have read a few sad stories now and would like to turn the clock back please. I'm hoping my head is ok and I might get a second hand block and fit it out with an "Atomic stage 1 kit" Seems like a waste of money going standard again. Anyone know the safe limits for a 2007 BF Mk2? Oh, yeah that looks a good deal *Beep*, I would take the lot, but NSW is a bit out of the way and your dollar is ^

I was driving to work in the early morning and thought I would give the gas a squirt going up hill on a long straight. The boost had just started coming on and I had a full tank of gas. Something didn't seem quite right with the performance and there was a strange sound like a few quick, dull bangs and a flash of orange light, then just the sound of rolling wheels and then the engine light lit as I coasted to a halt :( Anyone got a spare engine or parts for a rebuild?

Hi Brennan. Good choice. I think you saved yourself a lot of trouble, especially if you are lazy