Kingers.

So you put in an amp and a sub, amped the sub and only the rears or fronts as well? What sort of amp have you got and what's it hooked up to? As in aftermarket headunit via rcas or hooked into the factory cd player? The gains haven't been set incorrectly or if you haven't touched the fronts at all then you sure it's just not the fact that the unamped fronts arnt getting the same amount of power as the rears hence being quieter

Axle tramp? I get it really bad in my bf, don't know how to prevent it but sure someone will be along to help, is it a ute or sedan?

Can get it from auto barn, it is expensive. Think I paid 300 for their big box. Will do doors parcel shelf and boot. Can also get it at jb. Can get smaller packs too

Yeah dynamat here too, got it on doors and parcel shelf, still needa do boot lid though

http://epanote2.epa.vic.gov.au/EPA/publications.nsf/2f1c2625731746aa4a256ce90001cbb5/c90ec843f3bbbe8fca256d9f00181c59/$FILE/1031.pdf just for future reference if anyone wants to read found that Information regarding intake systems for those interesd is below... 1. Intake systems Intake systems are designed to ensure that the correct air/fuel ratio is available to the engine for the cleanest burn to minimise exhaust emissions. Systems that provide excess air or fuel can create high exhaust emissions from the vehicle. Fuel or other hydrocarbon vapour that escapes as evaporative emissions can lead to the formation of photochemical smog. Replacement air cleaners are permitted provided that they have all connections and systems present on the original air cleaner and operate in an identical manner. (a) Open element or pod type air cleaners on carburetted vehicles are not permitted. (b) Dry element pod type air cleaners are permitted on EFI vehicles. Oiled, oil-soaked or fluid-treated elements are not permitted. Any sensors integral to the original system must be retrofitted to the same approximate location. © Intercoolers that are larger than standard or have a different mounting location or are added where none were originally fitted, are permitted only if no other changes to the intake system have been made. In other words, you may have a pod filter or modified/added intercooler, but not both. Any sensors integral to the original intercooler or intake system must be retrofitted and be in the correct location. Note: aftermarket turbocharging kits that include intercoolers that have been type tested (ADR certified) for the model vehicle are permitted. Documentary proof must be retained to substantiate this. (d) Airflow meters must not be disconnected. They may be relocated, provided they are functionally equivalent and are in the same approximate location. (e) Modified or aftermarket plenum chambers or throttle bodies are not permitted.

well changed my mind again, lol and to stop myself changing it again I ordered my gear. All plazmaman. Got stage 2 bar and plate cooler mirror polished, 4in airbox and hot side piping, got it for 1890 delived. So works out to be alot cheaper than process west and I got hot side piping. Also they said they were giving away free billet oil caps this month too so all in all very happy now. Made up a battery relocation my self, inspired by process wests one. Cost me about 80 bucks to make would cost about 50 but cause I got audio gear cable that need to be extended cost a little more. so now just waiting on delivery

Not sure if this is gonna help ya but I used to work at a place called supertrim, they were the supplier to ford of all their car seat covers, we used to get the rip curl ones made overseas and imported them and sent them to ford. Crap quality compared to the ones we made, but anyway maybe try giving them a call and see if they can get you some or something. Sometimes I wish inwas still there. 15% discount on a new car...

yeah figured out what im gonna do, gonna make a battery relocation kit, the same as process wests on, just make it a bit sturdier and bit more protected and get a plazmaman intake and then use a process west stage 2 cooler and throtle body relocation, is gonna cost me about 100 bucks more than the process west stage 2.2 kit and about 500 or so less than their stage 2.3 so much for doing it on the cheap and not spending 2 grand on a cooler kit, lol, oh well sh*t happens, lol. so basically gonna fit it all my self then have to wait a month before I can get it all tuned up, lol

how many people have their battery located under the front guard? as in process west battery relocation kit? http://www.processwest.com.au/website/prod_xr6t/pw_product_fordxr6_batteryrelocation.htm seems as though theres no other spot for me to put it :( im guessing this is gonna be illegal to have it there?

Yeah dont want to use that battery kit as I have a bit of current coming from my sound system, emailed process west and they told me the intake won't fit with that cold side kit. So back to the drawing board, lol

any other kits I could look at? aps has one but I dont know how much and nizpro are to pricey

ok well my plans are starting to change once again, having a fair bita hassel just to get a airbox fitted, so now im deciding to buy a new cooler, just so I can get the airbox to work and look good. Prblems I've had, mostly the battery is the biggest prob because I dont want to relocate it to the boot, I want it on the other side of the engine bay. I was going to get a rapids V.1 kit but because of the way the cold side runs the battery wont fit... Been thinking of a hdi cooler but dont like the idea of cutting the front bar and just dont like the look of their piping for some reason. And it seems my last option is process west, like their piping and the cooler fits with no cutting but I dont like the price tag, lol... so it seems that fitting an airbox is going to work out to be about 2000, lol. something I didnt want to spend in the first place, but it seems as its going to be the best way. Rapid do make a pipe that will allow me to use the airbox with the stock cooler but at 300 and having to cut the airbox to accomodat the pipe im not to keen on as I wanted to upgrade the cooler later so I dont want a hole in the airbox. hmmm reading over this seems im a bit picky on stuff, lol. This damn airbox better be worth it, lol. still wondering if I should just go with the hdi, it does look good through the front, but the piping and cutting just puts me off, arhhhh few more weeks and ill hopefully have it sorted, lol rant over/

ok cool ill keep that in mind the more I keep thinking about it the more I keep changing my mind, lol. thinking bout spending some extra coin now and getting a new ic whilst im there, lol. So many decisions

ok so had a look at the process west kit, for 240, what does it come with had a look on the site and cant quiet figure out if the 240 is just for the single pipe or if it comes with other pipes? Anyone got one? and what does it come with? I will email them tomorrow and see what it consist of but if someone could tell me and save me the email it'd be good

hey guys, getting an airbox, needa move the battery, but found out its gonna cost to get the airbox to actually fit, cause of the crappy pipe. so just thinking of getting a hdi cooler. Just wondering if there is enough room to fit the battery on the right side of the engine bay when the cooler piping comes up through that way? I can justify spending 500 on a battery kit when I can do it all myself, plus I got a few extra power cables that needa be re run. I dont want to put the battery in the airbox. Just bought a new battery t so want to use that. Where does everyone put them. Besides the boot, that's not an option, think I seen one hung under the front bumper of a car before?

Cant you just use the process west throttle body relocation kit?? Or am I not thinking of the right thing?

Has anyone out there cut their stock crossover? Need the cold side to throttle body but don't need the other side. So anyone done this successfully? Or is there something that I can buy that will do the job and not cost a whole bunch of money? In a b series

hey mate how did you secure your battery down? got any pics? Needa move my battery to that side and not sure how to fix it down

looked like there was room :s under batter just give a better sound? or flutter? ok few more questions, lol. It'll stop one day ok so its the factory cold side that is the problem but which part looks as though it'll just be the pipe from the solid pipe just under the batter to the crossover that will be the problem? That solid section doesnt get in the way? As for the battery relocation one cable goes to the fuse box, can I get a new little clampy thing that bolts the cable on to the box from anywhere? without a cable already crimped in? and does anyone know where the other cable snakes its way to? is it easy enough to unwire and put a new cable in its place or am I going to need to extend it? and the ground cable anyone know where that terminates? cheers

ok well rung up plazmaman today and will be ordering one either tomorrow or on thursday to have by the weekend. Been having a look at a few of the pics in the engine bay thread and most dont seem to use the airbox for the higher powered cars? whys this? I thought the airbox would have been more popular? Colour seems to be something I needa think about too, I want it to look good but also stockish at the same time, car is seduce so thinkin of clack? seems to be the most stock looking??

fair enough, hmmm cold side you say, dont think ima be able to buy a whole new kit. hmmm maybe I could botch something up for it shouldnt be too hard to do

anyone know how much the nizpro airbox is? and which is better outa plazmaman or nizpro?

ok so 4in box it is then, thinkin of ordering one tomorrow and hopefully have it here by the weekend to fit :D ok so what do I need to get with it to work? will a hotside pipe kit fix the problem? plazmaman seem to have the cheapest air box are they alright compared to the others? or are the all much of a muchness?

no mods at the moment, will be doing injectors, fuel pump and high flow cat soon when I get some money. Later down the track prob will be a new ic going in. Just want a new intake so I get some better noise coming from under the bonnet. how come the under battery flutters more than the 4in? so to make either work I just get a hotside kit from someone? do they all allow for both intakes to work? thanks for the help

also will I need a tune if I put this on? will be getting a tune soon just wanna know if I can put it on for awhile before I get the tune? also do people that run one of these still vent the bov back into the intake or do you vent to atmos or just not run a bov?