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Posts
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1 NeutralAbout Para045
- Birthday 20/10/1965
Contact Methods
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MSN
kalidah@live.com.au
Profile Information
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Gender
Male
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Location
Perth
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Interests
Fast Motorcycles,Cars and Shooting.
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I put a set of these 60W 18000LM H7 LED Car Headlight Kit in my 2012 FG XR6T about a year and a half ago as I was having issues with the RH main beam blowing constantly ๐ Haven't had an issue since putting these in and the light output is much better, might get some more for the high beams soon come to think of it ๐ค On my FG II they don't have a clip like the older Falcons or the missus's 07 Terra, they have a circular clip arrangement similar to these > as part of the globe holder that turn and hook on tabs in the HL housing to hold in the globes ๐ I had to cut the boot that goes around the clip/globe holder to get it out of the boot and get the wires out as well and refit it around the new globes as they have that "fan" section ๐ I did once get a warning on the dash going through the Graham Farmer Freeway tunnel but haven't had it since ๐ฒ
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Please help me diagnose this noise from the turbo
Para045 replied to keplaffintech's topic in Turbo Workshop
Sounds a lot like my car a few years back, started off initially like an old lifter ticking and slowly got worse ๐ฅบ I tried having a look around in the engine bay and under the car but couldn't find the exact issue and it looked like a major headache to remove everything to search for it ๐ต Ended up taking it to a mechanic we know and he found that there was a slight bit of blowby on the exhaust manifold but most was because a bolt had come out of the turbo and it had blown out the gasket and was leaking pressure that way ๐จ Thankfully it wasn't too hard or costly a fix and strangely I didn't really notice a massive performance drop when it was bad ๐ 2012 XR6 Turbo Exhaust Leak 1 2012 XR6 Turbo Exhaust Leak 2 -
Had the 2 front struts replaced with 2 x KYB 551135's last Friday by Ape Suspension and all good now โบ๏ธ Didn't realise it but it looks like the struts are adjustable ๐
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Just trying to find out what starter motor to fit to the wife's 07 TT? Over the last few weeks a couple of times when she went to start it she would turn the key and get no crank but had dash lights/windows/radio etc but then when she tried again it would start ๐ Anyway we were out together yesterday and stopped at multiple places and then it wouldn't start! I tried starting it myself, took the key out and locked the car thinking maybe a fob or immobiliser issue as the battery is less than 3 years old and still no joy so called the RAC. About 1/2 hour later I tried again and she started fine and did that several times no issues! 5 minutes later the RAC guy shows, tests the battery etc and that is fine and reckons it's the starter as the Falcon/Terra ones go like that ie no click or anything when they are on the way out just wont crank ๐คจ Anyway he said just get one from Repco/Veale etc as they aren't too pricey and fit it and should be good so started looking around and I'm just a little unsure about exactly which starter is correct? Repco list 1 Repco.com.au: OEX BXS0102 STR 12V 10TH CW BOSCH STYLE NEW = $134, Supercheap has quite a few different ones at different prices and some have slightly different specs ๐ต Supercheapauto.com.au: Ultra Torque SNB001 = $173.99 special order 21-22/9/21, Supercheapauto.com.au: JAS SNB001 = $174 special order 21-22/9/21, Supercheapauto.com.au: Jas SNB158 = $197.99 special order 21-22/9/21, Supercheapauto.com.au: Ultra Torque SNB158 = $207 special order 21-22/9/21, Supercheapauto.com.au: Jaylec 70-1008-1 = $229 special order 21-22/9/21, Supercheapauto.com.au: Ultra Torque BXF456 = $233 special order 21-22/9/21, Supercheapauto.com.au: Jas SNJ537 = $271 special order 21-22/9/21, Supercheapauto.com.au: Ultra Torque SNJ537 = $271 special order 21-22/9/21, Thing is both places say they all fit an 07 TT but when searching, some of the numbers quoted as fitting say non turbo only, some don't depending on the site and to check the one in the car. Did that this morning and got even more confused as the one in the car says Bosch F 000 ALO 900, Industria Brasileira 5R29 11001 AA, any idea which one to get ๐ฅบ
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Telephone is so old school ๐คช Besides NZ is half the distance compared to Perth ๐ That's why we used to fly to Bali rather than the east coast, a sh*t load cheaper ๐ Oh I'm sure he could I'm just thinking of a) postage costs would likely be quite high for a set of discs & pads, b) everything seems to take weeks or months to get over to Perth lately unless you want to get raped and pay overnight shipping ๐ Probably easier and cheaper to source them here in Perth, just need to know the best type to go for ๐ค
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Oh well I guess I've done well then compared to both of you guys, getting 160k out of them has been good then ๐ As stated just never had a shock fail like that, usually just a gradual decline ๐ค
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Hi there, just wondering whether anyone else has had a front strut/shock fail suddenly on an FG XR6T? I bought my 2012 FG Falcon XR6 Turbo LE with ~18k on her and she's now done ~160k and the LH front strut has started clunking badly and leaking fluid everywhere ๐ A week and a half ago all was good, no clunking/leaks etc and she was handling fine even though I go over some quite bumpy roads to and from work in the Perth hills then on the Friday morning I noticed a hollow metallic clunk/pop sound when going around RH curves ๐ At first I thought something had come loose under the bonnet or in the bodywork as it sounded quite hollow but had a bit of a look around when I got home and couldn't see anything ๐ค Drove to work over the weekend and it progressively got worse clunking more and more and even started in a straight line yet still didn't seem to be handling too bad ๐ Last Friday I took it down to the local suspension shop who has done work on the wife's Turbo Terra and did the rear shocks and bushings at the beginning of the year and he confirmed it was the LH strut and showed me pictures of leaking fluid ๐ฒ I have it booked in to get the struts replaced on Friday and have been using the wife's car as much as possible but was just curious as to whether anyone else has had their struts/shocks fail like that ๐ค I've had shocks go bad before on 4WD's/cars & MC's but usually it's a gradual thing and the handling and ride goes away noticeably ๐ฆ
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Unfortunately I'm in Perth so a bit far to drive even if I wanted to go and get Covid ๐คฎ Will likely do the job myself as I'm quite handy and my son is an apprentice mechanic so should be able to change them ourselves, mainly just wanted an opinion on the best brand/s & types to get for the T as all my previous vehicles it was OEM only or a copy of such, no real options
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Thanks, so DBA are better? It was strange that when I searched for discs to fit my car on both DBA's and Bendix's sites it showed 322 & 355mm discs as being for it although the DBA did call the bigger ones Police Upgrade so I guess they had different calipers ๐ค
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Also any thoughts on drilled/slotted rotors vs std?
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Hi guys, just wondering what is the best replacement discs for the front of my 2012 FG Falcon XR6 Turbo LE? I had it in to get 2 new Bridgestone RE003's fitted as the rears were down to the wear bars (1 to the belt ๐) and they swapped the fronts which are only about 10k old onto the rear and they mentioned the front discs looked a bit worn and had heat spots on the discs and the pads were 80% gone as well I bought it with ~18k on her and she's now done ~160k and I've noticed a slight vibration at highway speeds from the front end and shudder under hard braking for a few thousand km's now and so figured they were probably due to get skimmed anyway? Anyway given the shudder and the heat spots I figure I might was well replace the discs entirely rather than piss about skimming them I'm assuming there are better options than OEM discs, we replaced the rear discs on my wife's 07 Terra Ghia Turbo with RDA brand ones and also used RDA's on my son's 06 Mazda SP23 and they seemed OK ๐ So are there any better options out there short of big $$ for Brembo's? I did read PhilMeUp's thread when he put them on his taxi and obviously then you also need bigger rims as the std 19's apparently wont fit them so even more $$'s ๐ From a quick Google there are RDA/DBA/Bendix and others and there are 322mm & 355mm discs! Will they both fit as I haven't checked what size mine are yet, would the bigger/thicker discs fit and be better? Also what type of pads does everyone recommend as I know from my motorcycle that some pads are much harder and wear the discs a bit more but offer much better stopping power and last longer ๐
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Hi, I seem to have a similar issue on my wife's 2007 Turbo Ghia ๐คจ Thought it was tyre related initially as the mechanic we use said the Forterra tyres I had on had a lot of weight on them to balance but have taken it to 2 tyre places and while they said there was a slight issue with the tyres they didn't believe that was causing it as like the OP it is mainly around 95-100 it starts depending on road conditions and gets worse up till ~120kmh which is as fast as we've pushed her given the whole car shakes ๐ Also, they said the tyres had been balanced several times and the wheel alignment checked twice and all was good. Plus it's not doing it all the time, it's mainly under load and while on cruise control not on deceleration or going slightly downhill ๐ Back at the beginning of June we got the suspension checked by Pedders and so far we've had them replace both rear shocks, both rear Control Blade Arms, 3 Control Arm Pivot Joints, 1 new front CV Shaft and instal a Rear Lateral Arm/Toe Link and front & rear Urethane Diff Mount Bushes so almost the whole suspension has been done and while there was a slight improvement to the vibration and the vehicle handled better the vibration has started to come back ๐ฐ Everything else they said was fine, they said the front shocks could possibly need replacing down the track but were serviceable at the moment and not something that would be affecting the vibration ๐ The front rotors and pads are good and the rear rotors and pads were replaced at the beginning of the year, the Auto transmission was serviced with new sump/filter & fluid in Sept 2018 and the prop shaft balanced at the same time ๐ The centre bearing was replaced a couple of months prior to that along with a new trans cooler and pipes as that was leaking and a couple of months before that we had a reconditioned cylinder head replaced as it had corroded along with new Iridium plugs/timing chain/tensioner/belts/pulleys etc and rear main seal ๐คจ The beginning of 2017 we had new Track Rod ends, boots & bushes done ๐ When Pedders did the suspension work they had a look at the transmission and engine mounts and couldn't find anything obvious, is it possible they could be stuffed? I got underneath with my son yesterday arvo and on the right-hand side there is what looks like an adaptor plate that goes between the alloy engine mount and the engine and one of the nuts was a bit loose but we tightened it up and it didn't seem to make any difference ๐ Anything else we can look at?
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This 100% our 2007 would throw an oil light on and off very so often and the oil was always fine, no leaks etc. Got our local mechanic to look at it and after some research came across the issue mainly on turbo Falcons where the small inline filter gets clogged and stops oil flow to the turbo and it goes ๐ฒ Luckily the Terra T seems to be routed differently as it sets off the warning light whereas from reading about the Falcon issues the 1st you know is when your turbo dies ๐ฐ
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I know it's an old post but I don't suppose you still have a copy of this somewhere? Have to do some work on the missus's Turbo Terrra Ghia
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I know it's an old post but I don't suppose you still have a copy of this somewhere? Have to do some work on the missus's Turbo Terrra Ghia